82.Travels of Swarnakumari Devi 2

 

   The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

                (Continued from the last part)

In 1912 AD, Swarnakumari Devi went to Prayag or Allahabad. In the Bengali years 1319 and 1320, parts of her travelogue were published in several issues of the Bharati magazine. During this journey, her companions were her elder brother Satyendranath Tagore and her son and daughter. In this writing, she referred to Satyendranath Tagore as “Socrates Dada.” She vividly and humorously described the train journey, explaining how Satyendranath prevented other Bengalis and Englishmen from entering their compartment. Her children were overwhelmed with joy when they saw hills for the first time through the train window.

Swarnakumari Devi once narrated her first experience of traveling by train. She had boarded directly from a palanquin onto the train, which Satyendranath found quite odd. He thought bringing a palanquin to the platform in front of everyone was a matter of shame and laughter. Earlier, Swarnakumari believed that shame lay in mingling with the public, not in riding a palanquin to the carriage. Yet, that night, when she had to get down at the station amidst a crowd, she felt extremely uneasy, and all joy of travel vanished. Even now, she admitted, she feels uncomfortable boarding the train in a crowd. But after hearing Satyendranath’s thoughts, she began to feel uncertain. She wrote: “Who knows what changes society will see over time. Who knows what more will happen in the future.”

The next day at 11 AM, the train reached Danapur. The train halted there for half an hour. Rice and vegetables had been arranged at the station for them. Her brother took her son to bathe at the station. Though all the windows and doors were closed, she kept fearing someone might walk in. An Englishman tried to enter the compartment but left after hearing "zenana, zenana." Then came Buxar, the boundary of Bengal under British rule. After that, they passed through Chunar or Chandalpur, Mirzapur, and crossed the Yamuna bridge to reach Allahabad.

Despite the severe cold in Prayag, she once wanted to bathe in the Ganga. But she heard that without offering something to the priests and shaving one's head, the bath would be fruitless. As she refused to shave her head, she gave up the idea. She went to see the Triveni Sangam by boat. The boat passed under the Yamuna bridge and came near the fort. Just beneath the fort is a flagpole. Beneath it, they say, lies the river Saraswati in a well. Towards the confluence, the Ganga and Yamuna seemed like two co-wives rushing wildly to reach their husband first. The confluence reminded her of Krishna’s Mohini form.

Across the Ganga lies a hilly region called Jhusi. Remains of several forts are visible there. At Beni Ghat, priests have planted flags to mark their territories. Everyone bathes here and offers money to various deities’ idols. During monsoon, this ghat gets submerged.

One day, the writer entered a tunnel in the fort and saw the immortal banyan tree (Akshay Bat). The architecture of the fort is superb. Inside the armory, they entered with a pass and saw various guns and swords. Beyond the third gate, in the garden, they saw the Ashoka pillar. Inside the tunnel, a panda (priest) showed a stone idol, claiming it to be Triveni Madhav. The site of the fort was once full of Ganga’s water, they say. Akbar supposedly requested Triveni Madhav to move the Ganga slightly for 500 years, and the deity, pleased, moved the river for thousands of years, allowing Akbar to build the fort. The tunnel is 25-30 hands long. On both walls are many niches with stone idols. Near the Akshay Bat, on the tunnel floor, are several stone Shivalingas, one of which is partially broken. The priest claimed Aurangzeb broke it, and blood flooded the tunnel instantly. Seeing the Akshay Bat, the writer was astonished. Despite being in a dark, airless space, the tree had sprouted new leaves — it was alive. She felt it should be one of the seven wonders of the world. The end of the tunnel isn’t completely sealed; a person can pass through. The priest said the tunnel extends all the way to Kashi. He also mentioned Akbar’s past life as the monk Mukund Sannyasi — a story previously described by Jadunath Sarbadhikari in Tirtha Bhromon. The writer observed that this story shows how pleased the people were with Akbar. The priest said Akbar himself constructed the tunnel to the Akshay Bat. After the British took over the fort, access to the Akshay Bat was allowed for a few hours in the morning and evening.

One of the prominent attractions here is the Khusrau Bagh, built by Jahangir’s son Khusrau. His tomb is located here. The garden is filled with velvet-like grass and diverse flowers. The abundance of roses particularly impressed the writer. Besides Khusrau’s tomb, there are also tombs of his mother, wife, and two young sons. Shah Jahan, Khusrau’s brother, is said to have had him and his two sons killed. The fakir who showed them the tombs shared this story and read out some Persian verses engraved on the tomb walls — such as how greed for wealth leads sons to disobey fathers, and brothers to kill each other, etc.

One day, while sailing on the Yamuna, they went to a hilly island in the river called Sujan Island. On the hilltop stood a Shiva temple. Stairs led up from the river to the temple. There was no human presence in the temple. The writer was surprised to see Persian inscriptions on the temple walls. In front of Sujan Island, in the water, stood another hill with two temples — one of Krishna-Radha and the other of Shiva. People live on this hill. A priest told her that Nawab Shah Shuja had these temples built upon the request of a beloved Hindu employee and named the temples and island after himself. Then she understood why there were Persian inscriptions.

The writer went to see the Bharadvaja Ashram Temple. Lord Rama had stayed there for three days during his forest exile. But the solitude was gone, and noise and filth from people, along with shouting female priests, frightened them. In the city, they saw a king's temple with golden spires. They also visited the Basuki temple and the Shivkoti temple on the banks of the Ganga.

In the month of Bhadra 1320, Swarnakumari Devi's piece titled Samudre (On sea) was published in Bharati, describing her steamer journey. On May 6 (1913?), they boarded a large Europe-bound steamer named Dunera. Twelve years earlier, she had once taken a three-day sea journey from Bombay to Karwar. This time, the destination was the Nilgiris. Boarding the ship filled her with a strong desire to visit England. The food arrangements on board were royal. In the morning, light refreshments were served — bread, butter, tea, coffee, etc. At 9:30 AM, a heavier breakfast followed — fried fish, porridge, 2-3 types of meat, bread, butter, jam, fruits, etc. Lunch at 1 PM consisted of the morning items plus soup. Dinner included all of breakfast and lunch items except porridge, ending with two types of pudding. There was an unlimited supply of tea, coffee, and alcohol. The writer was surprised at how the English gentlemen and ladies consumed so much food without any physical work. Electric lighting was present throughout the ship. She wondered when such lighting would be available in every home and street of Calcutta. On the morning of May 7, the ship left Khidirpur and anchored at Diamond Harbour that night. The next day, it left Diamond Harbour and entered the Bay of Bengal.

On the morning of May 11, the ship docked at Madras port. From the ship, Madras looked beautiful — high court, college, and large buildings were visible on elevated land. But there was no jetty, so passengers had to take boats to reach shore. Inside the city, she didn’t see many good houses, and the roads were dusty. Compared to Calcutta and Bombay, Madras seemed unimpressive to her.

In Ashwin 1319, Bharati published her article about Puri. The writer described the Puri sea, the sandy expanse, and sea bathing. The local fishermen who guide bathers in the sea are called Nuriya. If one bathes with a Nuriya, there’s no fear. They are paid two annas each. The writer was impressed by their courage. She wrote Nuriya means non-Odia — they are Telugus from Madras. She also described the pompousness of the Jagannath temple pandas (priests).

She greatly enjoyed visiting the Jagannath temple in Puri. There are 120 small and big temples within the walls. Four gates lie in the four directions. The eastern gate is the Singhadwar, guarded by two lion statues. The southern gate is Ashwadwar, the northern Hastidwar, and the western gate, without a guardian statue, is called Khanjadwar. It is said that the Arun pillar at the entrance of the Jagannath temple was brought from the Sun Temple at Konark. The Navagraha idols above the Bhogmandap entrance were also taken from Konark. Seeing the image of Jagannath, she felt that the unornamented beauty of the idol symbolized the formless divine. That is why devotees see the universe in this form. Chaitanya went mad after seeing this form. A temple priest said Jagannath is an incarnation of Buddha and formless. Inside the dark temple, Jagannath, Balaram, and Subhadra resided, lit only by lamps. Seeing the Anna Chhatra of Shri Kshetra brought her joy. In a land flooded by Hindu casteism, the magnanimity of Buddha’s liberal religion is visible in this system of food donation — without caste or ritual barriers. Even Chaitanya couldn’t remove caste distinctions. He couldn’t even take a Muslim devotee inside the temple. It is said that out of this regret, he established a Jagannath idol on top of the temple — one visible to all, regardless of caste.

There are more places to visit in Puri. Gunjabari is the summer temple of Jagannath, where the deities reside during the Rath Yatra. The Atharanala (Eighteen Piers) is a bridge built without arches. Each of the 18 piers holds a stone row on top, slanted, upon which the bridge rests. The water of Chandan Sarovar (Lake) is extremely pure. In its center is an artificial island, and it is surrounded by bathing ghats.

81. Travels of Swarnakumari Devi 1

 

     The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

Swarnakumari Devi (1855–1932) was one of the first Bengali women poets, novelists, and composers. She was the first bengali woman editor of a magazine. She was the daughter of Maharshi Debendranath Tagore and the elder sister of Rabindranath Tagore. In 1877, her elder brother Jyotirindranath Tagore started a magazine named Bharati. After Jyotirindranath and Dwijendranath Tagore, Swarnakumari Devi was elected to the post of editor of this magazine in 1884. After that, she worked as the editor of the Bharati magazine in two phases for a total of 18 years, till 1914. She was also involved in political activities. She was the first woman to participate publicly in a session of the Indian National Congress. In 1896, she established the “Sakhi Samiti” to help orphans and widows. Her novels include Dipnirban, Chhinnamukul, Hugli'r Imambari, Phuler Mala, etc., and she also has many poetry books and plays. She composed more than 300 songs. She received the Jagattarini Gold Medal.

News of Swarnakumari Devi’s first travel episode is found in the 1883 journey to Karwar. She went to Karwar in the Bombay Presidency, the workplace of her second elder brother, ICS Satyendranath Tagore. Her companions were her brothers Satyendranath, Rabindranath, and sister Saudamini. Some information about this journey can be found from the writings of Swarnakumari Devi’s daughter Sarala Devi and Rabindranath Tagore. But no writing of Swarnakumari Devi herself has been found.

Then in the same year, 1883, Swarnakumari Devi went to Bolpur with her family. Jyotirindranath’s wife Kadambari Devi also went with her. Some information about this Bolpur journey is found in the writings of Swarnakumari Devi’s daughter Sarala Devi.

In 1887, Swarnakumari Devi went on a trip to Darjeeling. Her companions were Rabindranath, his wife Mrinalini Devi, their young daughter Bela, sister Saudamini Devi, and Swarnakumari Devi’s two daughters. In the Bharati magazine of 1295 (Bengali calendar), from the Baisakh to Bhadra and Kartik issues, this writing was published serially under the title Darjeeling Patra (Letters from Darjeeling). At first, she was ill and bedridden. Then every evening, a reading session was held, which she enjoyed. They stayed at Castleton House, the old residence of the Lieutenant Governor. To the south of this house was Mall Road, and a 500-feet-high hill called Observatory Hill surrounded the road next to the house. There is no better flat walking place than this road. There is no jungle of trees and plants here; instead, trees full of flowers line the road like the roads of Kolkata. On the western side of the road, on slightly steep grassy land, there are bushes of ferns and roses. Below this slope to the west, some way down the road, are the well-decorated shops of the English. On the green body of the mountain, beautiful white houses rise in layers. Sunlight falls and the houses shine like glass. At night, the lights of the houses shine like stars on the body of the mountain. The opposite side of Mall Road, which the writer calls “park,” has preserved some marks of how Darjeeling used to be a jungle before becoming a city. The old jungle is preserved on both sides of the wide road. One day, while going to the park, she lost her way and went elsewhere.

The beauty of Darjeeling starts from the way to reach it. Just after Jalpaiguri is Siliguri, which is the valley of Darjeeling. From there, one has to climb the hills by a train. This train is even smaller than the horse-drawn tram of Kolkata. While riding in the train, one can easily touch the plants on both sides of the road.

After becoming healthy, the writer always wanted to go outside and see the open views of Darjeeling. They went for 2–3 days to see Victoria Waterfalls or Kakjhora. They climbed up to Observatory Hill. From there, views can be seen beautifully in all directions. Also, the deity Durjay Ling resides there. Some say the word “Darjeeling” came from “Durjay Ling” or “Ling.” But Sarat Chandra Das (note: 'Expedition to Tibet'), who went to Tibet, said “Darjeeling” is a Tibetan word. It came from “Dorje.” “Dorje” means thunderbolt. In the Tibetan language, thunderbolt is used in the sense of supreme. That is, “Darjeeling” means the supreme place. Sarat Chandra Das said that the Raja of Burdwan came here and established the Durjay Ling deity. Before that, there was no such deity here. But according to the writer, in 1844, the father of barrister Manomohan Ghosh (Ramlochan Ghosh, who built the old palace of Pathuriaghata and who was the Dewan of Warren Hastings) came here. There were almost no roads then, yet he came and saw Durjay Ling.

After that, the writer saw a round-domed temple in the Bhutia Basti, the main settlement of the Bhutias, a little below Darjeeling town. Here, the teeth and nails of a lama have been kept in memory. And there is a gompha (monastery), where in the veranda there are large prayer wheels. The more the wheel spins, the more the mantra rotates and the more sins are destroyed. Inside the gompha, there are idols of Mahakal and Mahakali. As the main deity of the temple, there is an idol of Buddha and Kali. Even after asking several times, they couldn’t understand the name of the third main deity. The Buddhism here is mixed with Hinduism, like in Tibet. Non-violence is not the supreme religion here. Alcohol and meat are not forbidden for the lamas. Then she wrote about the play of clouds and sunshine in Darjeeling.

Sinchal is about ten thousand feet above Darjeeling. The British used to have a military camp here. But as the soldiers could not tolerate the cold here, their barracks were transferred to Jalapahar. With hundreds of chimneys and broken walls, Sinchal is now just the ruins of a city. Tiger Hill is 500 feet higher than Sinchal; from here, parts of Dhavalagiri (Mount Everest) can be seen. The road to Tiger Hill is very bad, palanquins can't go here. One has to walk very carefully on narrow paths. Reaching the top, the mind was filled with a wonderful view. That day, the peak of Dhavalagiri was not visible as that side was covered in clouds. The Kanchenjunga range was seen quite well.

The writer and her companions once went to Rangit. Rangit is a river in Sikkim. The surrounding area is also named after the river Rangit. It is 11 miles downhill from Darjeeling. Across the river is the independent state of Sikkim. They reached near the river, traveling through a forested path in palanquins while watching Kanchenjunga. The water of this river is green. Along the way, ferns, wildflowers, parasites, and big trees — things not seen in Darjeeling — were present. That evening, they returned home via Mall Road in palanquins. Mall Road was then filled with English men and women, music bands were playing, the whole place was lively. When the British, in exchange for taxes, took this place from the King of Sikkim to make a settlement for health purposes, Darjeeling was a jungle region. There were no roads from Bengal to come here. Recently, after Macaulay’s Tibet Mission, the British have completely stopped giving that tax to the King of Sikkim.

In 1888, Swarnakumari Devi went to Gazipur. Rabindranath Tagore also stayed there for a few days with his wife. In 1296 (Bengali calendar), Gazipur Patra was published in the magazine Bharati. It contains many details about the journey, including the train ride from Howrah. Along with that, the writer shares humorous and lively conversations with Rabindranath. From Gazipur, she also traveled to Kashi with him.

In 1891, Swarnakumari Devi visited Pune, Solapur and such places in Maharashtra. Here too, her elder brother Satyendranath Tagore was residing for work purposes. In 1298 (Bengali calendar), she wrote about this travel in the Bharati magazine under the title Patra (Letters). In Pune and Solapur, she wrote about visiting art galleries, exhibitions, British fancy dress balls, horse races, and various sports exhibitions. At this time, she also visited Pandharpur and Akkalkot by train. 

On arriving at Akkalkot station, they were taken by a carriage sent by the local king to the royal palace. The queen was very tasteful and had decorated the house beautifully. The king himself showed them the palace, fort, court, school, royal market, treasury, and the hall where the highly valuable elephant throne was kept. This king was enthroned with British support and spent lakhs of rupees to please the British.

                      (To be continued)

80. A visit to Europe 2 - Trailokya Nath Mukharji

 

  The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

             (Continued from the last part)

In August 1886, the author set sail for Scotland by sea. The ship sailed along the Thames River, then through the North Sea. Gradually, the ship reached the port of Leith in Edinburgh. Edinburgh is a city of picturesque beauty. The view from Castle Hill, Salisbury Hill, and Calton Hill, looking down, is extremely enchanting. In Edinburgh, the author visited Princess Street, Princess Street Gardens, St. Giles' Gothic Cathedral, County Square, and Holyrood, where he saw the rooms of Mary, Queen of Scots, and other distinguished personalities. He also saw Sir Walter Scott’s monument.

The next day, the author traveled to Perth. He observed trout fishing in the beautiful environment of the blue waters of Loch Leven (Loch is what they call lakes in Scotland). From Perth, the author arrived at a small station in the Highlands called Pitlochry. From there, he crossed the Kili-Crankie Pass and walked to Blair Atholl. This route involved passing through many narrow passes, deep ravines, and crossing rivers. From there, the author walked along the Tilt River Gorge for 16 miles. The journey, surrounded by green bushes like carpets on the mountainsides, with the delightful weather and the sound of the river, made the trip very pleasant. In the evening, while standing on the Dee River bridge, he saw how incredibly narrow and dangerous the river had become with strong currents. It was here that the poet Byron had once nearly fallen to his death. While staying in a Highland cottage, the author felt a sense of affection for an Anglo-Indian boy, thinking of him as native.

Next, the author traveled towards Ballater. He first visited Balmoral, the Highland residence of the Empress. Then he visited the Prince of Wales’ Abergelly Estate. He saw the snow-capped peaks of Loch Nagar Mountain. There are many farmhouses in this region. The locals, with respect for their esteemed guest, kept offering the author whiskey and tea. At one point, the author saw many homeless men and women, wanderers who roamed about begging for food.

From Ballater, the author traveled by train to Aberdeen, a developed city located on the sea coast. Here, herring is caught commercially. Also, oysters, prawns, crabs, and other sea products are available. The author then went to the Killin Pier. After crossing Loch Tay on a small steamer, the author saw grassy slopes covered in green, tall trees in dense forests on elevated ground, autumn yellow leaves from deciduous trees, and high mountain peaks, all of which appeared to him like scenes from a fairy tale. Loch Tay has a small island, and on it, there are the ruins of an ancient castle. After that, the author passed through Dalmalley and arrived at Kilchurn. The train track went along the lake for some distance. From a place called Ak-na-Quit, a small steamer travels across Loch Etive. Then, after passing the Connel Ferry Station, the author arrived at Loch Nell. From there, the views of Fort William and Ben Nevis were extremely beautiful.

After spending a few days there, the author went to Glasgow by steamer. Glasgow is one of the largest cities in the world and a major trade port. In Glasgow, the author saw many statues of famous personalities in George Square, a large statue of Sir Walter Scott, the New University, and the Museum. The author then took a horse-drawn carriage towards Trochacks. This path went along Loch Venachar for some distance. The coast was surrounded by dense forests, and many small rivers flowed into the lake. Leaving Loch Achre behind, they entered the Trochacks Gorge. On the right side, there was Ben Alam and on the left, Ben Denou, steep hills covered in dense forests. On the other side of Trochacks was Loch Catrel. It had not been easy to reach here in the past. A steep, tree-rooted ladder path had existed, but now, with the good road, it was much easier to reach. They crossed the lake on a small steamer.

After returning from Scotland, in October 1886, the author went to Oxford. There, he visited Christ College, Queens College, Macdonald College, the Cathedral, the Museum, the Library, and the Man Mandir. The hotel where the author stayed was entirely managed by a woman. The author observed that women in Europe, especially in hotels, shops, pubs, post offices, and factories, worked in positions of responsibility and even worked past midnight, which, at that time, was unimaginable in India.

In the last few days in England, the author visited the notable places in London and its surrounding areas. He visited Parliament twice and watched a session. He saw the clock tower and the Big Ben bell. In Westminster Abbey, the coronations of kings take place, and there are many graves and memorials of kings, queens, and distinguished personalities. He visited the Tower of London, which had been a place of refuge during attacks by foreign enemies on England in the past. The Crown Jewels of England, including the famous Koh-i-Noor, are kept here. Many historically famous individuals had been imprisoned here, and several executions were carried out. One day, the author was present at a prayer ceremony in St. Paul’s Cathedral. Other places the author visited included the Geological Garden, Botanical Garden, Bank of England, National Gallery, Hampton Court, Exchange, the Kensal Green Cemetery (where Dwarkanath Tagore is buried), Madame Tussaud’s wax figure exhibition, etc. The author mentioned that the British Museum had so many diverse items that it would take a lifetime to explore them all.

Finally, on December 13, 1886, the author left England for Rotterdam in the Holland (Netherlands). The next day, while traveling by steamer over the river, the author saw numerous windmills on both sides of the river. The author arrived in the Dutch city of Haarlem. He visited the local museum, which housed various items from Dutch colonies such as Java, Sumatra, Borneo, and the Philippines. The author then proceeded to Amsterdam, where he visited the Zoological Garden, Aquarium, and Museum. The canals of the North Sea and the North Holland Canal connected Amsterdam to the German Sea. The city is divided into 95 islands by canals and connected by 300 bridges. Since the ground is soft, many wooden piles are driven into the soil, upon which the city is built. The royal palace stands on 14,000 piles.

Next, the author’s destination was Paris, France. This most beautiful city was adorned with streets, parks, and palaces. In Paris, the author visited the Museum of Natural History, the Eden Theater, and the New Opera House. Due to wearing a turban, the author was treated with great respect. However, since the author did not know any European languages other than English, he could not enjoy their conversations. He wandered through the boulevards, watched the crowd of energetic people at the Lizee in the evening, saw the Arc de Triomphe, which was built to commemorate Napoleon’s victories, visited the Louvre Museum, and saw the Notre-Dame Cathedral, which was built in the 12th century. He also visited La Chapelle, Pathinian, etc.

After Paris, the author went to the German city of Cologne on the banks of the Rhine River. There, he visited the cathedral and churches. Cologne is also known for producing Eau de Cologne. The author then took the train to Berlin on December 31, 1886. In Germany, the train compartments were equipped with heating systems. A dial was installed on the train's wall to adjust the temperature. The hotel where the author stayed in Berlin had electric lights. It had been snowing day and night, but the hotel maintained a constant temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit with the help of pipes.

From Berlin, the author traveled to Vienna, Austria. Upon reaching a place called Tetschen near the Austrian border, the author had trouble understanding the language and remained on the same train. Later, a ticket collector came and checked the tickets, demanding a high fare because the train was going to a different destination. The author tried to explain that he was traveling on the wrong train and should not be charged. However, the authorities did not seem to understand. At a small station, they forced the author to get off the train and threw his luggage out. In the deep of the night, in the midst of heavy snowfall, the author felt utterly helpless in the mountainous region of Bohemia. Eventually, the author, with great difficulty, gathered his belongings from the tracks and made his way to the stationmaster, who reluctantly helped him arrange for a porter to assist him for money. The porter carried the author’s things and the author followed him. Initially, the snow was deep, and the path was slippery. After walking some distance, they reached a wooden bridge over a large river. The porter took some of the author's silver coins, probably to pay the toll. They arrived at a small town around 3 am, which was half-awake due to Christmas. The porter went to change the author's remaining gold coins and returned to take him to a hotel, where they spent the night. The next morning, the author realized that he had to take a train to Vienna at 9:18 am.

The next day, the author managed to catch a train to Vienna from the nearby station. The train sped through the sea of snow, passing countless small hills, dense pine forests, and picturesque villages. Occasionally, ancient castles were visible.

Vienna was a clean and palatial city, much like Paris. The author visited the royal palace, museums, and libraries there. On December 27, the author left Vienna and traveled by rail through the Austrian Alps.

That night, the author arrived in Venice, Italy. In Venice, the guide showed him a house where Shylock had once kept money. The author visited the Piazza, also known as St. Mark's Square. The author then went to Florence, the city of flowers, where he was mesmerized by the stunning paintings, sculptures, and masterpieces of artists like Raphael and Michelangelo.

From Florence, the author arrived in Rome on December 31, 1886. In Rome, he was unable to visit the Vatican because it was the holiday season, and he didn’t have enough time to obtain permission. However, he did visit the Colosseum and the Flavian Amphitheater. Afterward, he went to Naples, where he saw the museum, aquarium, underground tombs, and art gallery.

From Naples, the author went to Brindisi, where a ship took him to Alexandria. Finally, on January 3, 1887, the author left Europe and returned home by regular mail ship, after spending almost nine months in Europe. 

79. A visit to Europe 1 - Trailokya Nath Mukharji

 

   The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

"A Visit to Europe" is the account of Trilakyanath Mukharji's (1847-1919) travel experiences in Europe. This Bengali literary figure is known as the creator of humour in Bengali literature. His notable works include Kankabati, Bhoot O Manush, Fokla Digambar, and Domru Charit. He worked as a teacher, in the police force, as a clerk at the Bengal Gazette, and in the revenue department. In 1886, he was sent to England to attend the Colonial Exhibition, and his experiences are recorded in this book. Upon his return, he became the assistant curator at the Kolkata Museum.

The first publication of A Visit to Europe was in 1889. Before being published as a book, his writings were serialized every week in the Indian Nation magazine for a year and a half.

On March 12, 1886, the author embarked on his journey to England aboard the ship Nepal. After the ship set sail, the passengers on deck began observing how the waters of the Indian Ocean gradually turned from green to blue. The sunlight faded, and the lighthouse's light could no longer be seen. In the deep darkness, only the white foam of the phosphorus in the sea was visible. Over time, the unfamiliar Indians aboard the ship slowly began to familiarize themselves with one another. The author compared the passenger ship to a huge, wealthy house. On the deck, passengers could engage in various activities such as walking, exercising, playing chess, and more. There was a separate room for smoking. When the views of the sea and the flying fish became monotonous, people spent their time in these ways. Occasionally, someone would play the piano and sing on deck. Below deck, there were two long rows of cabins, each accommodating two, three, or four people with sleeping arrangements. There was a dining room for meals and a saloon for other activities such as sitting and reading. Meal times were fixed, and the food was nutritious, with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options available. Hindus could have their meals prepared separately if desired. The crew arranged for the necessary stoves and utensils. The ship had a library, and occasionally, a ladies' room.

Six days after leaving Bombay, the rugged hills of Aden were visible. Dark-skinned boys swam over to beg for money, and traders came to sell ostrich feathers and eggs. After disembarking at Aden, the author observed that there were no trees except for small, thorny ones. Two miles away, in an Arabian city, there were small gardens, but no large trees. It rained only three to four inches a year in this region. Dams had been built long ago to store water. There were 50 reservoirs, including the Mareb Dam, built 2,500 years ago, 13 of which were still functional at the time. Water from these reservoirs was sold to the people at one rupee per 100 gallons. Since the British arrived, trade, peace, and prosperity had increased. There were many coffee houses, where Arabs and Somalis drank coffee day and night. Coffee was invented by them, originating from the mountains of Yemen. Since drinking alcohol was prohibited by the Quran, the Arabs adopted coffee as a stimulating drink.

The story of the Ramayana is strangely evolved in Aden. A historian named Mojahir wrote that King Dashashira (ten-headed Ravana) used to send criminals into exile to Aden, where there was a well in the mountains connected by a tunnel to India. According to the story, Dashashira's demon, while flying with Ram Haidar's wife, stopped to rest on the Jebelsiya mountain and threatened to turn her into a demon. During their argument, a monkey-like being named Hanbit heard the commotion and quickly built a tunnel from Ujjain Vikram to the mountain, where he found Ram Haidar's wife sleeping under a thorn tree. He carried her through the tunnel and returned her to Ram in Ujjain Vikram. Later, Ram and his wife had two sons, Luv and Kush. The author mentions that trade between India and Arabia existed in ancient times, and gradually, the stories of the Ramayana and Vikramaditya (the story of King Vikramaditya of Ujjaini and Betal) merged to form new versions. The tunnel is said to still exist.

Leaving Aden, the author traveled through the Babel Mandeb Strait and the Red Sea, passing seven islands known as the "Seven Apostles." He witnessed a joyful display of dolphins. Eventually, they reached the Suez port. After disembarking from the Indian mail ship, they traveled to Alexandria by train. The author's ship entered the Suez Canal, which connects Asia and Africa and establishes a link between the Red Sea and the Mediterranean. Previously, ships had to travel around the Cape of Good Hope, but with the Suez Canal, the distance between Kolkata and London was reduced by 3,500 miles. It took them two days to cross the Suez Canal. After passing through Port Said, they entered the Mediterranean. Then, their ship reached Valletta, the main city of the British-controlled Malta archipelago. From here, they could see the peak of Mount Etna in Sicily. Malta is a rocky island, and the soil used for farming was brought from Sicily. The oranges grown here are famous.

The ship then sailed along the coast of Africa. A regular passenger pointed out various locations along the coasts of Tripoli, Tunisia, and Morocco. The ship continued along the coast of Spain, and they saw the mountain peaks of Spain. They then arrived at the Strait of Gibraltar, which connects the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean. The two mountains on either side of the strait were once known as the Pillars of Hercules in ancient times. After crossing the Gibraltar Strait, the ship entered the Atlantic.

Although the weather was fine, the ship encountered large waves coming from the west, causing it to tilt. Walking on deck became impossible, and the author even feared falling out of bed. Later, the author observed a whale spouting water through its blowhole. Several sharks followed the ship for a long distance. The ship finally reached Plymouth, England. It was just a 24-hour journey to London. Finally, the author arrived at Albert Dock near London. Filled with emotion, the author was overcome with feelings of joy and fulfillment after reaching the dream destination of England.

The journey to London by train took just half an hour, and the author was impressed by the clean, well-maintained streets, houses, and shops, and reflected on the lack of cleanliness awareness among Indians. From the next day, the author began attending the exhibition. During breaks, he visited Westminster Bridge, the Whitehall Palace, and Oxford Street. One day, the Prince of Wales visited the exhibition, and the author had the opportunity to meet him.

One of the wonders of London the author saw was the underground railway system. This railway is divided into the Inner Circle and the Outer Circle. The first passes through densely populated central London in a tunnel with arches, and the stations are located outside. There are 48 stations in the two circles, and trains run every three minutes, with many passengers. Despite the hustle and bustle, there was no shouting like among Indian passengers. People here speak in soft tones, even in public places and at home. Advertising was everywhere—on stations, trains, and along the streets. Besides the underground railway, there were suburban and provincial railways around London. These railways connected to places like Scotland, Belgium, France, Dover, and Calais. Omnibuses, pulled by horses, also ran across the city, and steam boats crossed the Thames every five minutes. Vehicles like horse-drawn cabs and two-wheeled hansoms also traversed the streets. Pedestrians walked on the right, and vehicles followed the left.

On May 4, 1886, the British colonies and India's exhibition was inaugurated. Princes and princesses came to see the exhibition. The Empress hosted a special train trip for the writers to Windsor, where they were treated to a royal feast at Windsor Palace. They were introduced to the Empress, and the author saw various chambers of Windsor Castle, famous paintings, the memorial of Prince Albert (Queen Victoria's husband), the chapel, and the Long Walk, a three-mile avenue.

An excursion was arranged for the participants of the exhibition, and the author traveled through the beautiful English countryside, observing the lush greenery and comfortable summer scenes. The author also visited Cambridge for a university event held at the Senate House, a beautiful building modeled after the Temple of Jupiter in Rome. The university's library, containing over 400,000 books, was also visited. Afterward, the author toured several cities in Great Britain, including Manchester, Liverpool, Birkhead, Bristol, Bath, and Wales. At Bristol, the author paid his respects at the grave of Raja Ram Mohan Roy. Popular health resorts have been developed around the hot springs in Bath. The author visited these places one by one.

                 (To be continued)

78. Bhromonkarir bhromonbritanto 3 - Rasikkrishna Bandopadhyay

 

   The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

                (Continued from the last part)

The author commented that to describe the numerous temples in Puri, another separate book would need to be written. However, he has given descriptions of certain notable temples. Puri was the site of the great sage Markandeya's presence. Currently, there is a Shiva temple named Markandeshwar and a water tank called Markand Pushkarini. Puri has 700 monasteries. The noble intent behind the construction of these monasteries by accomplished individuals for deity worship and offering has largely failed, as the funds are being used for the luxury of the heads of these monasteries, according to the author. In the western part of Puri, there is a self-manifested Shiva temple named Loknath. The idol of Mahadev is located in a cave, which is often filled with water, and only on Shivaratri, after much effort by the priests, is the idol retrieved. The residents of Puri hold deep reverence for this Shiva idol. Inside the premises of Puri's main temple, there is a temple dedicated to the goddess Vimala. Although the Jagannath temple serves only vegetarian offerings according to the Vaishnavite tradition, non-vegetarian offerings are also made at the Vimala temple on specific dates. It is also sometimes stated that Jagannath is regarded as Vimala's Bhairab. The reconciliation between Vimala Devi and Jagannath Devi is a very difficult matter. There is a goddess named Harachandi in the nearby village, and her worship and animal sacrifices are conducted with great enthusiasm. At the seashore of Puri, where pilgrims bathe, it is known as Swargadwar (Gateway to Heaven). Nearby, there are many monasteries, including the those dedicated to Kabir and Nanak. To the west is the tomb of Sri Chaitanya (but was it actually there at that time?). The sandy coastline is dotted with trees planted by the monks. Several saints, including Nanak, Kabir, Dattatreya, Shankaracharya, Tulsidas, and Sri Chaitanya, are believed to have spent their final days there (though in reality, only Sri Chaitanya's divine play ended in Puri, and others are said to have spent some time there). The seat of Sage Dattatreya is located to the left of the Swargadwar in Puri. The monastery of Shankar Swami (Shankaracharya) is on the seashore, and it houses many ancient books. The head of this monastery, Damodar Tirtha Swami, is a profound scholar, while the priests of Puri are wealthy but uneducated. The city of Puri is long in size and divided into seven villages or palli. In these villages, one or two Durga Puja celebrations take place. On Dashami (the tenth day of Durga Puja), all the idols from the city are collected and displayed in front of the Simha Gate, an event known as 'Vhet.'

After spending the end of summer and the beginning of autumn in Puri, the author left for the south along the coastline of the Bay of Bengal. After traveling ten miles, he visited the Harachandi Temple. According to legend, Lord Ram installed this idol during his exile and worshiped it. Then, after traveling another two miles, the author stayed the night at Katakuri. From here, the Chilka Lake begins. The place has only three small shops selling grocery. Boats for traveling to Chilka are available from here. The author sailed to Chilka the next day. The water in Chilka is salty. Thirsty, the author asked a sailor for water, and a fellow passenger made him a two-foot deep hole on the bank where sweet water could be found. On the right side of the boat, villages are visible, while on the left is the sandbank. Fishermen are seen catching fish with nets, and some fish are drying in the sun along the shore. The author passed by a three-mile long sandbar known as Parikuda, the capital of the Parikuda kingdom. The sandbar has the king's palace surrounded by the homes of peasants and agricultural lands. After spending two days at the royal palace and conversing with the king, the author moved on. He traveled along the coastal road, where the Utkal and Madras regions meet (At that time, Andhra Pradesh did not exist, and Madras referred to present-day Tamil Nadu). From the Chilka Bay, the author could see the hills on the shore. Once on land, the path leading to Madras was visible. Between these hills was the capital of the Khallikot kingdom. The royal palace seemed hidden among the mountains for self-protection. The governance of this kingdom was poor, and the king was oppressive.

Next, the author traveled through the jungles of Utkal or the Karad Rajya (Revenue states of the British). He followed the road from the previous mountain pass towards Utkal’s jungle region, reaching Banpur, a place that was once the capital but now only has a few old temples. From there, he traveled six miles southwest through the jungle to an outpost, which marked the boundary between the kingdoms of Nayagarh, Khallikot, and Khalsa Mahal. No one travels this route after sunset due to the presence of tigers and bears. The author stayed at this outpost overnight. The head constable warned him that if he needed to go outside after dark, he should call the constables and watchmen who would light a fire and accompany him for safety. The following morning, the author traveled eight miles northwest into the jungle with a local resident and stayed in a village overnight. The next day, after traveling two miles, they had to cross a mountain. The descent from the mountain was slippery and dangerous. After five miles of travel, they took shelter in a Bhagwat recital hall in a village. The next day, they reached the capital of Nayagarh. The author had a conversation with the young king. The capital is flanked by two mountains. Afterward, the author went to a place called Khondapada, ten miles away. Here, on a small hill, the statue of Nilamadhava is situated. The place is very picturesque. On Maghi Purnima, the author witnessed a fair at the Nilamadhava temple, which attracted nearly ten thousand pilgrims. On the opposite bank of the Mahanadi River were the kingdoms of Nrisinghapur and Dashpala. The author visited the kingdoms of Dashpala, Ramachandrapur, Bomrajya, and Kandamala. The Kandamala region was inhabited by the Kand or Khond tribe, who, until recently, practiced human sacrifice, which the British had stopped. Afterward, the author visited the kingdoms of Hindol and Angul. The oranges of Angul are very sweet. These oranges grow in the wild and are collected and consumed or sold by the indigenous people. Then, they traveled by boat on the Mahanadi River towards Cuttack. After four days of travel, they reached Cuttack, where they took a steamer to Bhadrak and then to Balasore. Afterward, they returned to Mayurbhanj almost a year later.

The author concluded the book with a commitment to publish the second volume, but it is unknown whether these travel accounts were ever written or published, as the books are not available anywhere. Therefore, although the author mentioned in the preface that the book would describe various districts of Bengal, Bihar, Odisha, and Assam, this book ends with only the descriptions of Bengal, Bihar, and Odisha at that time.

77. Bhromonkarir bhromonbritanto 2। - Rasikkrishna Bandopadhyay

 

   The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

           (Continued from the last part)

Mayurbhanj was a tributary state under the British government. During the writer's stay in Mayurbhanj, he witnessed the grand celebrations, hospitality, and hunting arrangements made by the king in honor of the arrival of the British commissioner. Eventually, despite strong objections from the king’s guardians and subjects, the British commissioner forcibly took the minor king of Mayurbhanj to Cuttack for English education. (Maharaja Shree Ramchandra Bhanj Dutt, who reigned from 1870 to 1902, was the young king in question). Mayurbhanj is a mountainous and forested kingdom. It is traditionally said that Mayurbhanj was once ruled by Kichaka, the brother-in-law of King Virata from the Mahabharata. There is a temple of Kichakeshwari (located in Kiching). In Mayurbhanj, there is a Jagannath Temple modeled after Puri, where the Rath Yatra is celebrated with great fervor. There is a banyan tree in this temple with leaves resembling the shape of a cow's ear, thus it is called the Gokarna Banyan Tree. (Hari Baldev Ji Jagannath Temple, Baripada).

Afterward, the writer set off for Balasore. Traveling 32 miles south from Baripada, he crossed the Buribalam River on foot. On this route, there is no drinking water for 8 to 10 miles. After traveling one mile on the Cuttack Road, the writer reached Balasore town. The Bay of Bengal is located at the border of Balasore district. From Kolkata, water vessels carrying passengers and goods travel back and forth every eight hours. Passengers travel quickly on this route, but they face much discomfort due to the rude behavior of the waterway staff.

From Balasore, there is a wide royal road leading to the seaport of Chandabali (which is on the Baitarani River). There is a road heading west to the now non-functional port of Remuna. Remuna is famous for the Kshirochora Gopinath Temple. According to legend, Gopinath once stole kheer from a Brahmin, and thus everyone offers him kheer in his honor. A road from Balasore leads to the tributary state of Nilgiri. The capital of this state, Raj Nilgiri (now Nilagiri), is only 8 miles from Balasore.

Leaving Balasore and traveling south along the Cuttack Road for 42 miles, the writer arrived in Bhadrak. Recently, a canal has been constructed from Bhadrak which connects the Brahmani and Baitarani rivers to the Mahanadi below Cuttack. The writer then boarded a steamer from Bhadrak, sailing through the canal toward Cuttack. Besides this canal, another artificial canal from Chandabali to Cuttack was constructed by the British government, although the travel is uncomfortable due to the mismanagement of the steamer services. 

Along the way, to assist a Bengali family, the writer disembarked from the steamer, crossed the Brahmani and Baitarani rivers, and took a bullock cart to a place called Kongyapal near Neulpur. From there, he visited some ancient relics in Nayagram. Among the notable sites were the ancient Shiva temple of Shukleshwar (Mahanga, Odisha), and the temple of the royal family’s goddess, Bhagabati, who is depicted as the six-armed lion-riding goddess. King Manikeshwar built the capital here and erected these temples. However, the temple of Manikeshwar Shiva is now in ruins, and the idol has disappeared into the cave. The site, once a fortified jungle capital, is said to have been the refuge of King Lakhan Sen of the Sena dynasty, who was driven out of Gour and took shelter here in Utkala. Most of the ancient ruins are now buried in time, but the goddess’s (Manikeshwar Temple, Mahanga) worship continues even today.

From there, the writer took a bullock cart to Cuttack. Cuttack was ruled by Hindu kings from Utkala, as well as by the Mughals, Pathans, and Marathas, with different kings building various architectural structures during their reigns. In the southwest part of the city, the Maratha rulers had built a stone embankment along the banks of the Katjuri River about 150 years ago. Many images of gods and goddesses are carved into the stones of this embankment. Cuttack is home to many Bengalis, and its inhabitants love to keep birds, with even the house of the Zamindar being filled with them.

A few days later, the writer set off for Puri. After traveling twelve miles, he stayed the night on the banks of the Balihanta River. The next day, he left Puri Road and walked southwest along a forested path, eventually reaching Bhubaneswar with the Pandas. In Bhubaneswar, he visited many beautiful temples. However, the Pandas informed him that these were not the famous temples of Bhubaneswar. He visited the Bindusagar tank, but the water there had become very polluted. He then visited the main temples of Bhubaneswar, where he was impressed by the beautiful structure of the temples. In the Shiva Purana, Bhubaneswar is referred to as Guptakashi. Here, every home has a temple, and the Rath Yatra of Bhubaneswar takes place on the full moon of the month of Baisakh.

The next day, they arrived at Sakhigopal. This deity’s idol belongs to the Kanchi Raj's property. The king of Utkala defeated Kanchi Raj in battle and brought his chosen gods, Gopal and Ganesh, to establish them in Sakhigopal and Puri. Here, the writer witnessed the Ras Leela of the people of Odisha, which is celebrated during the month of Baisakh. Several earthen idols were placed in a room, and a pandal where coconut leaf was spread over them. The dancers performed here for about a month. Several boys dressed in various ways sang songs in the Odia language. As for the legend of Sakhigopal, which involves giving testimony, the writer mentions that there is no basis for this story.

Five miles from there is Puri. Upon reaching the Puri Road, the Pandas began to irritate the writer. After crossing Athara Nala, he arrived at Chandan Talab, the largest pond in Puri. It was excavated by a person named Narendra, and so it was called Narendra Pushkarini. It is here that the Chandan Yatra of Lord Jagannath takes place. Many stalls are set up around the pond during the Chandan Yatra. After the third watch, Lord Madan Gopal Ji arrives from Puri at this location.

In front of the Jagannath Temple in Puri, the main road of the city leads. The chariot travels along this road up to Gunjabati. The road is about 100 feet wide. On the left side of the road, as one heads toward the Jagannath Temple, lies the residence of the Utkala King. On the other side of the road are shops and the Pandas' homes. The writer stayed the night at the house of one of the Pandas after viewing the Chandan Yatra. The next day, he visited the Shri Kshetra (Jagannath Temple) in Puri and received prasad. Afterward, he met with the Dewan of the Maharaja of Puri, who was a Bengali. The writer and his companions spent nearly a month in the Dewan’s house, living in peace and comfort.

The perimeter of Lord Jagannath's temple is about 2 miles, surrounded by stone walls with four gates. The eastern gate is called Singhadwar. In front of this gate, there is a 30-foot-long stone pillar, which was originally in front of the Konark Temple. After the destruction of the Konark Temple, this pillar was brought here. At the entrance of the gate, there is an idol of Lord Jagannath called Patitapaban. Those who are not allowed to enter the temple because of their caste can view this idol. It was not there earlier. Once, a king accidentally became impure and lost his right to enter the temple. Therefore, the Patitapaban idol was established for his viewing. After passing through the Singhadwar and climbing 22 steps, the second gate appears, which was rebuilt by a saint who collected funds through begging. On both sides of the steps and at the top of the gate, there are sweet offerings sold in the market. South of this gate is another door where the rice prosad (offering) market, known as Ananda Bazaar, is located. Inside the second gate is the first offering temple. The offerings provided by the king are placed in the main temple before the deities. Other offerings from devotees are also kept at this offering temple. Next is the large Nat Mandir (dance hall), followed by the Shreemandir (Main Temple). While the temple's architecture is high, it lacks the artistry seen in the Bhubaneswar temples. Some inappropriate carvings are also present in the temple, which might be related to tantric worship practices. Surrounding the Shreemandir are temples of various gods and goddesses.

According to the writer, the daily expenditure for all services and offerings at Lord Jagannath’s temple is over 250 rupees. Three types of dress are offered to Lord Jagannath every day, with different dresses being worn on various dates. During the Rath Yatra, three new chariots are built according to specific regulations written in a book. The length, width, and the exact dates for starting and completing the chariot construction are mentioned in this book. The Dasapala King of the Garhjata Mahal provides the necessary wood for the chariots. He has a grant for a forest, and it is his duty to arrange to cut the trees there and transport them to the riverbank. The wood is floated down the river by the workers of the Puri King. During Rathajatra, it takes five or six days for the chariots to reach Gunjabati. During this time, the idols remain on the chariots. After nine days, the chariots return to the temple in Puri.

                             (To be continued)

76. Bhramankarir bhromonbritanto 1 - Rasikkrishna Bandopadhyay

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

The book Bhromonkarir bhromonbritanto (The Traveler’s Travelogue) was published in 1294 Bengali calendar (1887 AD). The title of the book reads: "The Traveler’s Travelogue, that is, a brief description of every district like Bengal, Bihar, Orissa, Assam, etc., collected, written, and published by Rasik Krishna Bandyopadhyay." The travel period mentioned in the book is 1885 AD.

Nothing is known about the author, Rasik Krishna Bandyopadhyay. In the dedication section, under the title "Offering", he addresses Shri Banamali Raychoudhury, the ruler of Tadasdi, a noble and protector, with the phrase "Param Kalyaniyo" (whose well-being is most highly wished). During this journey, he had taken shelter in the houses of various zamindars, kings, and royal employees.

At the start of autumn in 1291 Bengali year, the author set out for a journey to Chotanagpur and Utkal. The author mentions having some companions, but their names and identities are never mentioned. From Kolkata, he traveled through Budge budge and reached Mahishrekha in Uluberia, Hooghly district. (At that time, these places were part of the Hooghly district, not Howrah.) From Alipur, one would come 10 miles on Budge budge Road, then another 6 miles on Uluberia Road. From Uluberia, one could continue south towards the Cuttack Road leading to Orissa. This road passed through Medinipur, crossed Balasore, and reached Puri. The northern bank of the Rupnarayan River was part of the Hooghly district, while the southern bank was part of the Medinipur district. The place where the Rupnarayan was crossed was called Kolar Ghat (Kolaghat). Following the Cuttack Road, the author left Hooghly district, crossed the river, and entered Medinipur district. At Kolar Ghat, there was a small shelter for travellers, an outpost, and a post office. After traveling 16 miles, the author crossed the Kangsabati River at Pashkura, where there was a large market, a police station, a canal water office, and English silk warehouses. The market there was very cheap, offering milk, fish, and vegetables. Another 24 miles further was Medinipur, after crossing the Kangsabati River again. After traveling 18 more miles, the author arrived at a village named Pathra, which had many houses. Medinipur district had a courthouse, a high school, the Medinipur newspaper, and a press for missionaries.

The Cuttack Road from Medinipur, which went to Puri, had branches leading to Sambalpur and Madras. This road connected to the highway of Singhbhum at the district boundary. Another road headed north-west toward Raniganj, and roads also led north to Garbeta, Bagri, and Raniganj. Another branch of this road headed east from Garbeta and, after 12 miles, reached the highway of Bankura. A branch from the south-east of Pashkura traveled 12 miles and reached Tamluk. From Tamluk, another branch went 30 miles southwards to the Hijli-Kanthi Subdivision. That road was unpaved, and two small rivers, Terapeka and Kalinagar, had to be crossed. Continuing along the Cuttack Road, one could travel 20 miles and reach Belda, from where a further 20 miles southeast would lead to Kanthi (Contai). The road from Garbeta led 12 miles north, where a branch eastward reached Ghatal. This road was old, but not strongly built due to the fear of floods. After traveling 21 miles south, the Medinipur district ended. The Subarnarekha River separated Medinipur and Orissa. Here, the place where the river was crossed was called Rajghat. This river becomes terrifying during the monsoon, and there is a local saying in Bengal: "If you cross the Subarnarekha, you will lose sight of your parents."

A canal ran alongside the Cuttack Road up to Medinipur. Small steamers and boats transported people and goods along this waterway. Despite the presence of two or three rivers along the path, the canal was well-constructed to avoid any hindrance in the journey. By controlling the flow of water with locks, boat traffic was facilitated on the Medinipur canal.

The author then provided various details about the natural state of Medinipur district, the products it produced, and the people of different communities living there. Medinipur district was home to many famous zamindars, most of whom had royal titles, and their residences were called garh (forts), such as Mayna Garh, Garh Podubasan, Mahishadal Garh, Narayangarh, Ramgarh, and Lalgarh. The Mayna Garh fort was surrounded by a beautiful moat, and there were forests in the area with peacocks and deer. After crossing a wide canal, one could reach the royal palace. One could not reach the palace by land, but only by boat. The former port of Tamluk was called Tamralipta. This port was once used by the people of Bengal for maritime journeys, but it no longer held the same prosperity. However, it still housed the revered temple of Bhima and Krishna-Arjuna. The residence of the King of Kanthi was called Najna Garh, and 6 miles away was the fort of Basudebpur. There was a saying that the King of Gopegarh once had the cattle shed of Virata of the Mahabharata. On a low mound in Gopegarh, there was a old building, though it was not very ancient. However, 3 miles north of Kanthi, the royal area contained several ancient Shiva temples that seemed very old. The author then discussed the educational advancements in Medinipur district and the high incidence of lawsuits. Despite being a part of Bengal, the region followed the calendar and system of Odisha, such as starting the year on the second day of the lunar fortnight in the month of Bhadra.

The author continued westwards towards Singhbhum, crossing the Kangsabati River. They had to travel along a dusty, unpaved road in bullock cart and after 12 miles, they reached a market. They took shelter in a local house as there was no inn. The next day, they continued their journey through the jungle, passing isolated settlements where they had no hope of finding shelter. After traveling 12 miles, they arrived at Nrisimhagarh, where the ruler of Dhalbhum had once reigned. They stayed at a shop for the night.

The next day, after 6 miles of travel, they arrived at the banks of the Subarnarekha River. This river’s sands contained a small amount of gold dust, and the locals would sift the sand for it. However, the amount of gold was so small that laborers could earn no more than four or five annas daily. The source of this gold has never been discovered. The banks of the Subarnarekha River were beautifully scenic, with large Sal forests, various trees and creepers providing shelter for travelers, and vast stretches of hills. On the left bank of the river, near Rajghat, stood the temple of Dhaleshwari Devi (also known as Rankini Devi). During the Sharadiya Mahashtami festival, sacrifices were made to the goddess, including the ritual killing of a buffalo by spear. The nearby royal palace had been established by the ruler of Dhalbhum. The author met the king and stayed in his hospitality for several days.

After traveling 42 miles through a jungle path, one would reach Singhbhum district. From there, Ranchi lay over 100 miles southwest. There was another road leading to Ranchi via the East India Railway’s cord line, passing through Sitarampur station, and then branching to Barakar. From there, one could travel through Manbhum or Purulia district and then enter Singhbhum before reaching Ranchi. The Ranchi division was mountainous and forested, once ruled by the Utkal king and now under British control.

On the other side, crossing the Subarnarekha at Rajghat and traveling 32 miles, one would reach Balasore district. Balasore port and district lay along the river Burh Bhalang (Buri Balam). During the rainy season, the river had strong currents, but it could be crossed on foot in the dry season. The main road from Medinipur to Balasore was the Cuttack Road, and there was also a route passing through Mayurbhanj. This path began at the south-western edge of Medinipur and reached Mahapal after 22 miles. After crossing the Subarnarekha River on foot, one could travel 6 miles to reach Gopiballavpur. This was the last settlement of Medinipur district. The village had a police station and post office. A Krishna idol named Gopinath was enshrined in a temple of a Vaishnav family. The family here held the Gosain title. From Gopiballavpur, traveling 24 miles southwest through the jungle, the author arrived at the capital of Mayurbhanj, Baripada.

                             (To be continued)

75. Englande bongomohila - krishnabhamini Das

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

"Englande Bongomohila", i.e. "A bengali woman in England" is a book written by Krishnabhamini Das, which was published in 1885. The author’s name is kept secret in the book. The publisher Satyaprakash Sarbadhikari refers to the author as the "creator of the book" in the preface. Undoubtedly, the author's name has been kept hidden at her own request. However, was the author concerned about the social acceptance or possible criticism of a Bengali woman traveling to England?

Krishnabhamini Das (1862-1919) was a Bengali writer and feminist. Born in Murshidabad, she moved to Kolkata after her marriage. Her husband Debendranath Das went to England for further education. Krishnabhamini Das spent time in England from 1882 to 1889 and returned to India. She wrote extensively about women's education and women's rights in magazines like Bharati, Prabashi, and Sadhana. In this book as well, she repeatedly makes feminist remarks. At the beginning of the book, the author states that she did not write this book to gain recognition or to display her knowledge. The book is a simple and direct reflection of her thoughts and observations based on the new things she encountered in a foreign land. The book provides information that Indian youths who are interested in coming to England might find useful. She addresses the female readers, stating that this book is meant to satisfy their curiosity about England. The author mentions that her husband read the book and suggested revisions and changes, helping her with the education and political aspects of the content.

In the book, the author compares the condition of Bengali women with that of women in England. She extensively discusses various topics like English social customs, religion, festivals, education, politics, people's behavior, and economic classes. However, since these discussions are not related to travel, many parts of these topics have been omitted from this writing.

On September 26, 1882, she started her journey from Howrah station towards Bombay, traveling in a railway carriage (the "coller car"). At this time, she was not hidden behind a veil, as was customary at the time. Her heart was full of pain from the separation from her homeland and loved ones. She was familiar with places like Hooghly and Burdwan because she had passed through them before, veiled, when visiting her paternal home. Now, with her head uncovered and wearing a hat, no one would recognize her. Perhaps the foreigners might think she was a "mem" (a European woman).

Seeing Patna station, she reflected on the lost glory of the ancient city of Pataliputra. At Mugalsarai station, she felt a desire to visit Kashi. Passing Allahabad, she thought of the place as sacred for both Hindus and Muslims—Hindus see it as Prayag, while Muslims regard it as the City of Allah. In Allahabad, she changed cars and entered the women’s carriage. There were no other women passengers in the compartment, so she spent the night there alone. The next morning, she reached Jabalpur. They had to change trains again here. The train from Kolkata to Allahabad was operated by one railway company, while the one from Allahabad to Jabalpur was operated by another. There are many trains that go directly from Kolkata to Bombay without needing to change cars, but they did not find such a train. They stayed a few days in Jabalpur, intending to visit places like the Narmada River’s waterfall and the Marble Rocks but had to leave on September 29, as the ship to England was scheduled to depart from Bombay.

From there, they saw mountains and forests through the train windows, sometimes even passing through tunnels. The next morning, they arrived at Bombay station. Her husband left her alone to arrange for a hotel, and she had no difficulty, as no one dared to approach her, a woman dressed in foreign clothes. They went to a large hotel. The streets of Bombay were much cleaner than those of Kolkata. Along the streets, there were paved sidewalks, which were found only in Chowringhee, Kolkata. The buildings here were made of wood and stone, in addition to bricks. The houses were six or seven stories tall, but the floors were shorter. The roofs were covered with slate, and they could not be accessed. Most of the shops along the main streets were owned by Parsis.

On the scheduled day, they boarded a small boat and then transferred to a large ship. Onboard, she observed Parsis, Muslims, and Christians, but did not see any Hindus. As the boat moved farther from Bombay, the city's lights gradually disappeared, and only the light from the lighthouse was visible. She did not experience seasickness during the voyage.

On the ship, there was a captain’s cabin and a kitchen on the deck. Below were small cabins, each with two, four, or more beds stacked on top of each other. Some cabins had small windows facing the sea, known as portholes, and some even had facilities for bathing. One side of the ship was for the first-class passengers, while the other side housed the second-class passengers and sailors. Between them was the engine room. As the ship sailed, she observed the various forms of the sea and felt delighted when she recognized familiar constellations in the night sky.

Eventually, they reached Aden, where they saw boys swimming and asking for money and local people selling goods. She also saw flying fish in the Red Sea. The ship stopped at Suez, and they were supposed to travel by rail to Alexandria and then board another ship to Brindisi. However, due to the ongoing war in Egypt, no one was allowed to disembark. They had to travel through the Suez Canal by water instead.

They stayed in Suez that night. In the morning, they observed numerous ships around them, each flying different flags and signs. The canal was narrow, and only one ship could pass at a time. On either side of the canal, there was desert, with a few houses scattered in the distance. Small boats occasionally came by, selling eggs, fish, and fruits. It was here that the author first tasted delicious pomegranates, grapes, and apples. After passing through Imma and Port Said, they continued their journey through the Suez Canal for 45 miles. They boarded another ship at Port Said and headed for Italy, passing through the Mediterranean Sea.

As they neared Greece, small mountains became visible. The author thought about the hardships people faced when traveling to England in the past, when it took one and a half years, nine months, six months, or even three months.

Finally, they arrived at Brindisi, a city in the southeastern corner of Italy, where they were held in quarantine for three days to prevent the spread of any diseases, particularly the plague from Egypt. After the quarantine, the ship sailed on to Venice, passing through the Adriatic Sea.

In Venice, the author saw the famous canals instead of streets. Boats were used for transportation, and there were no horse-drawn carriages. The poor women in Venice wore handkerchiefs on their heads, similar to how some women in North East India dress. She noted how both Indian and Romans were once pagan civilizations, but Italy had now recovered its glory through figures like Mazzini and Garibaldi, whereas India "still sleeps."

They reached Milan, changed trains, and continued toward Switzerland. Soon, they were in the Alps, crossing a mountain range and a tunnel that took about 25 minutes to pass through. They reached Basel, Switzerland, and from there, they traveled to France, where they observed the flatlands.

Eventually, they reached Calais, a French port city, and boarded a ship to England, crossing the English Channel and arriving at Dover. From there, they took a train to London and arrived on October 20, 1882. In London, the author marveled at the city’s electric lights that made the night appear as bright as day.

London was vast, about four times the size of Kolkata, with a population of around 4 million. The city was continuously expanding, and many of the fields around the city had been replaced by houses. London was known as a city of advertisements, shops, wealth, and theaters. Without money, there was no happiness in London.

London was divided into eight parts. The north and northwest areas were home to the middle class, where one could find cheaper rent. The west and southwest were mainly occupied by the wealthy. The east was where the poor lived, with unhealthy and unsanitary conditions.

London had many parks, and the largest was Regent's Park, which became crowded in the summer. The park had a lake for boating, lawn tennis and cricket grounds, and even a small zoo.

During the winter months of November, December, and January, London was covered in fog, making it difficult to walk or breathe, and the author sometimes felt like she was living in hell.

There were various modes of transportation in the city, including carriages, buses, and trams. The streets were filled with the noise of the vehicles, and Palkees (palanquins) and bullock carts were no longer seen.

The houses in London had underground rooms where kitchens and storage were kept, and the underground railway even ran beneath the River Thames. There were also trams and buses that did not run on rails.

In London, there were about 8-10 royal palaces, including Buckingham Palace, where Queen Victoria lived, and a grand Parliament House nearby. The famous Big Ben clock tower was situated on the top of the Parliament building, and its chimes were heard throughout the city.

Crystal Palace was located about three miles south of London, a grand structure built for the 1851 Great Exhibition. The building was surrounded by large gardens and fountains, and its glass construction was stunning at night.

The British Museum displayed ancient items from all over the world, and the Westminster Abbey was the burial site for England’s most notable figures.

There were 30 theaters in London, each holding thousands of people, and plenty of concert halls and opera houses as well. One popular tourist attraction was the Madame Tussaud’s wax museum.

In London, there are large palace-like hotels and restaurants to dine at. The restaurants offer cooked food at relatively high prices. If one is not comfortable at home or while on the road, there is the option to eat there. Additionally, there are pubs or public houses, often referred to as gin palaces.

Apart from discussions on social, political, economic, and educational matters of London, this marks the end of Krishnabhamini Das's account of her travels in London (England).

74. Mishar Jatri Bangali - Shyamlal Mitra

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

The author of "Mishar Jatri Bangali" (The Bengali Traveler to Egypt), Shyamlal Mitra, is not widely known. The book was published in the month of Ashwin in 1291 Bengali calendar, which corresponds to 1884 AD. Before this, the work had been published in the Sanjeebani newspaper. The book contains Shyamlal Mitra's experiences as a part of the Bengali Indian army in the Egyptian campaign of 1882. Prior to this, no Bengali had ventured so far to participate in a war. A few Bengalis had previously visited Kabul, but they did not document their travels. Shyamlal Mitra took part in the Second Anglo-Afghan War (1878-1880). After returning, he took a two-year rest, and in July 1882, after bidding farewell to friends and relatives, he set off for the Egyptian war. In the first week of August, he arrived in Bombay (now Mumbai).

Bombay was a magnificent city, surrounded by the sea with small green hills. The city's tall palaces and monuments reflected its prosperity. Every street had tramways, gas lamps, and piped water. There were beautiful gardens, schools, charitable hospitals, and markets. The city’s grandeur was further enhanced by the sight of troops assembling, massive war preparations, and the sight of warships flying flags in the harbors. At the end of August, they embarked for Egypt from the "Bombay Princess Dock," carrying enough provisions for a three-month journey. The author mentions that a Bengali clerk was also aboard the ship. Along with numerous soldiers, workers, and doctors, the ship carried 65 horses and 300 mules. The atmosphere at the time of departure was deeply emotional.

The ship had two sections: the officers and doctors were in the saloon, while the clerks and gomastas (accountants) were in second-class cabins, and others were accommodated in the deck area. The first and second-class passengers were served food for a fee of four and two rupees daily, respectively. Once the ship entered the deep sea, almost everyone fell ill with dizziness and nausea, which lasted for about seven days. There was only one place for cooking for all the Indian passengers, and it was allotted a mere four-hour time frame. Hindus and Muslims cooked in succession on the same stove, and then they ate in their respective spaces. One day, the ship was caught in a storm but was spared by God's grace. The next day, they reached Aden, which was eight days after leaving Bombay.

Before arriving at Aden port, a flock of flying fish was spotted. Aden is considered the gateway to India because anyone traveling from India to Europe had to pass through it. The English soldiers had always kept the place well-guarded. The indigenous people there were dark-skinned, with long curly hair, red eyes, spoke Arabic, were uneducated, and were under the care of the English. Some local youths swam around the ship, and when sailors threw money into the water, they retrieved it astonishingly fast. The journey resumed in the afternoon. The ship, after being in the Arabian Sea, now began moving toward the Red Sea.

Six days from Aden, they reached Suez and were ordered to proceed to the battlefield. They disembarked in small boats and began their seven-day march to the battlefield, either on foot or horseback. The railway line from Ismailia to Kassassin was 129 miles long. On one side of the rail was a canal supplying drinking water, while on the other, an expansive desert stretched out. This desert had been the site of the earlier battles in the Egyptian war.

[Egypt, as the gateway to the East, was especially attractive to Europeans. During the reign of Muhammad Ali Pasha (1805–1848), Egypt became a semi-autonomous state under the Ottoman Empire. From 1852, Britain increased its presence in northern Egypt to maintain its trade routes to India and build the first British railway abroad. Meanwhile, France invested in the construction of the Suez Canal to link the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. Due to Ismail Pasha’s (1863–1879) policies, Egypt went into severe financial crisis by 1875, leading him to sell shares of the Suez Canal Company to Britain. The discontent with European and Ottoman rule sparked nationalist revolts in Egypt in 1879. The British army occupied Egypt in 1882 to protect its financial interests, leading to a war that Britain won. The nationalist leader Ahmad Urabi (whom the author refers to as Arabi Pasha) and the rebels were captured and exiled to Sri Lanka. The British then set up a nominal government with Tawfiq Pasha (1879–1892) as the ruler, while Egypt remained nominally under the Ottoman Empire but was effectively controlled by the British.]

The author then recounts scenes from the war, focusing on the chaos and atrocities. In some places, victorious soldiers were committing atrocities on helpless Egyptian women, looting, and in others, starving Egyptians were stealing food from the weak.

At the end of the war, the author was returning to Cairo, riding alone on horseback, separated from his comrades. For three days, he had no food, and his horse grew weak from hunger. There were no villages in sight. Just as he was about to lose consciousness, the horse entered a lush green grove. Slowly, he arrived at a village that had been devastated by the war, almost deserted. There, the author rescued an Egyptian woman from a cruel white soldier. Gratefully, she took him to her house, where they gave him bread, dates, and water. They also helped him find his way.

The author then reached the nearest railway station in Jaghazig, which was a beautiful station with an attached fine hotel. There, he met an English officer and learned the whereabouts of his companions. The next day, a trip to Cairo was arranged. The following morning, with a pass for sightseeing, a horse, and two companions, the author set off to explore Jaghazig. The city, although beautiful, was disheartened by the aftermath of the war. Most homes were empty, and the shops were closed. Only a few women were selling fruit in baskets.

In the afternoon, the train to Cairo departed, taking nine hours to reach the city. During the journey, the author saw new places, lovely gardens, beautiful homes, and the splendor of the Nile. The Nile had transformed this desert land into a fertile empire. Upon arrival in Cairo, the author managed to find shelter in a local residence and was reunited with his fellow soldiers and shipmates. After more than a month in Cairo, he sought permission from the higher authorities to visit the city, and fortunately, his request was granted.

One evening, the author was invited to dinner at the house of an Egyptian colleague. The house was a beautiful two-story building made of bricks, with a lovely garden full of flowers. The interior was clean and elegantly decorated. The hostess warmly greeted the guests and served them food. Later, in another room, they found a table covered with artistic lids and decorated with gold and silver bowls filled with various fruits. During their conversation, the author learned that this Egyptian gentleman was originally from Bengal. He had lost his parents at a young age and traveled the country for ten years before deciding to go abroad. He first traveled to Mecca and then to Egypt, where he married an Egyptian woman and settled down.

The next day, the author visited the pyramids on the banks of the Nile with the Egyptian, who was originally from Bengal. Initially disappointed by the sight of the pyramids, thinking they were just heaps of dry stones, the author was awe-struck after entering the towering pyramids. He had never seen anything like it before, and he described the pyramids as being built with such advanced technology that it seemed as though they were created by the gods. Despite all the progress the English had made in science, the pyramids were infinitely more advanced and distinct than anything being built at the time. The precise way each stone was placed and the impossibility of separating them left the author in awe.

In Cairo, the author saw magnificent multi-story buildings lining wide avenues, but there was a sense of sadness everywhere. Along the road, some stone pillars in the shape of animal heads had water flowing when turned one way and stopped when turned the other. In one place, he saw a tavern in front of a temple, and in another, a royal marketplace, a vast palace filled with countless goods for sale. The author had never seen such a marketplace in any Indian city.

Later, the author visited the royal palace. In the garden in front of the palace, a group of beautifully dressed Egyptian warriors played victory music. Armed Egyptian soldiers and English guards stood watch at the palace doors. The author observed that while the general Egyptian populace was grieving due to the war, the royal palace was filled with amusement, with the English celebrating with the Egyptian king, who had invited the victorious English general. The author was astonished by the English charm and irritated by the Egyptian king's behavior, so he left the place. He then went to visit wounded soldiers, whose suffering was beyond words. However, he saw several Turkish women volunteering to care for the sick.

Finally, starting from October 1, 1882, the process of sending the Indian army back to India began. The Indian troops, including infantry, cavalry, camels, mules, and horse-drawn carts, lined up and marched, accompanied by music, for seven days through the desert, from Cairo to Suez. At night, the English officers slept in tents and had good food, but there was no shelter or proper food for the Indian soldiers. Even finding drinking water in the desert was difficult. Moreover, the English officers subjected the Indian soldiers to brutal mistreatment, some of which the author described in his book. After a month at Suez, the author was finally able to find a ship to board.

Due to the oppressive attitude of the English captain of the army, the author could not find a proper place to stay on the ship. He struggled greatly to pass the days. One day, the ship was caught in a fierce storm with lightning in the Red Sea and barely survived. But two days later, the ship encountered an even bigger storm. Waves were crashing onto the ship's second deck. Suddenly, a wave threw the author down to the lower deck. He fell onto a plank on the lower floor, and as his foot got caught between the legs of a mule, he did not fall into the sea. Losing consciousness, he lay there while the sea water flowed over him. After a while, when he regained consciousness, he painfully got up and with the help of some people, made his way to his sleeping quarters, where he saw that almost all of his belongings had been washed away. Even his clothes and the gifts he had bought for his loved ones were gone. In immense physical and mental pain, and having witnessed various kinds of torture by the English master, he finally returned to Bombay.

From Bombay, he traveled to Allahabad and worked there for some time. After three weeks, he was able to get a pass for Rawalpindi. The author then visited Kolkata, which he considered his birthplace, and after spending fifteen days there, he continued on to Punjab by train. On the way, he met with friends in places like Kashi, Prayag, Kanpur, Aligarh, Amritsar, and Lahore, before reaching Rawalpindi in early 1883 to reunite with his loved ones. Due to the accident on his return journey, he became disabled and was dismissed from his position. The British government treated him harshly.

In conclusion, the author called on Indians to awaken from their subjugated mindset, urging them to improve the nation's progress through independent agriculture and commerce, and to foster the spirit of personal freedom.

73. Bharat Bhraman 2 - Baradakanta Sengupta

 

     The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

               

              (Continued from the last part)

Afterwards, Bardakanta Sengupta, along with his companion Mr. S--, departed from Agra towards Bharatpur on the Rajputana and Malwa State Railway. Upon reaching Bharatpur, the author rented a room and a cot at a large sarai (inn). An employee of the Maharaja of Bharatpur came to collect their personal details, including names, addresses, whether they carried any weapons, or if they had anything to sell. Afterward, they had dinner with 5-paisa luchis. As they traveled further west, the price of luchis continued to decrease. In the morning, they took a one-horse carriage to see the Bharatpur Fort. Numerous peacocks and peahens were perched on the large trees along the roadside. The fort was surrounded by a ditch or moat, followed by a mud wall, then a moat, and finally a thick stone wall. Countless turtles could be seen in the moat. Crossing the bridge over the moat led them to the massive fort gate. The British had repeatedly failed to capture the fort, and it was known to be impregnable. However, seeing the dilapidated state of the fort inside, the author was disheartened. They also saw the Maharaja’s palace, which was in relatively better condition.

Next, they traveled by train to Jaipur, where they saw the mountainous terrain of Rajputana. Jaipur was a walled city with a fort. The gatekeepers checked them before letting them in. On both sides of the cobbled streets, beautiful houses were uniformly constructed and painted. A Bengali gentleman greeted them warmly. The author visited Jaipur’s English College, Sanskrit College, Art School, and monuments. The next day, they saw the Raj Bhavan (Palace) with its durbar hall, Hawa Mahal, Yagashala, and Chandramahal. Like in Kashi, there was an astrology temple here. Maharaja Sawai Man Singh had spent a large sum to bring Italian artisans to construct an extraordinary theater. The following day, they visited Jaipur’s market, the Residency, and the Ram Nivas Garden, which was established by Maharaja Ramsingh Bahadur. The Ram Nivas Garden was even more beautiful than Eden Gardens in Kolkata. Near the garden, there was a statue of the former Governor General Lord Mayor. On one side of it was a section with a collection of various animals. They also visited the museum, which, although not as large as Kolkata’s, housed many items. Later, they visited the temples of Madan Mohanji, Govindji, Gopinathji, Ramchandraji, and Gokulnathji. Among the independent kingdoms in India, there was hardly any city as beautiful as Jaipur. Maharaja Ramsingh had enriched Jaipur by introducing water taps and gas lights.

The author and his companion then traveled by train to Ajmer. On the way, they noticed that Ajmer was even more mountainous. They stayed at the house of a native Bengali gentleman. Ajmer was a fortified city, and the moat on the eastern side still remained. There were five gates: Delhi, Agra, Madar, Ushri, and Tripoli. At the northern edge of the city, there was a lake called Ana Sagar, which was excavated by Maharaja Ana. On its banks, the Diwan-i-Khas (Council Hall) of Emperor Shah Jahan lay in ruins. At the southwest edge of Ajmer stood Taragarh, a fort atop a high mountain, also known as Ajay Fort, built by the Chauhan ruler Ajay Pal. This area, being considered healthy, had been turned into a resting place for sick European soldiers. On the upper part of Taragarh, there was a tomb built by Akbar's nobleman, Jabbar Khan, for Miran Hussain. The view from the top was very picturesque.

From Ajmer, they visited the remarkable architectural site of Adhai Din Ka Jhopra, a house with intricate carvings, though the roof was almost gone. Despite that, it was considered an important example of Indian architecture. It was either built by a rich man in two and a half days or constructed from his earnings during that time. They also visited the tomb of Khwaja Sahib (Moinuddin Chishti). Upon entering the dargah (tomb complex), they saw two large drums in the Naubatkhana (music hall). Emperor Akbar had presented them to honor Khwaja Sahib. Afterward, they visited the stone mosque built by Shah Jahan. There were graves of Khwaja Sahib and his wife, daughter Hafiz Zaman, Chimni Begum, and one of Shah Jahan's unmarried daughters. Some people say there is a Shiva statue hidden in a secluded part of the dargah. Afterward, the companion of the author was taken home by his family, and the author was left alone. In Ajmer, the author visited a defunct lead mine. The mine’s entrance was locked because, some time ago, a visitor who ventured inside was killed by a tiger that had been living there in hiding. Armed with a lantern, the author and two companions went inside. It was very dark, and the echo of their voices resonated. There were many water streams inside. In the darkness, hearing the echoes, the author’s fear of tigers led him to turn back without going any deeper.

One day, the author went to see Old Ajmer, whose ancient name was Indrakot. The fort in the valley west of Taragarh was in ruins, with only a broken temple remaining. Occasionally, the author went hunting in the mountains of Ajmer. Emperor Jahangir had built a beautiful garden in Ajmer named Daulatabad, where he used to stay. It remains a charming location to this day. Then, the author traveled 14 miles from Ajmer to watch the horse races at Nasibabad.

Next, the author traveled by train to Delhi and stayed at a Bengali’s house, where it was the time for Durga Puja. The puja was being held at the only Bengali-established Kali Mandir. There, the Bengalis gathered, and the author witnessed a performance of a baiji's song.

In Delhi, the author visited various places: Purana Qila (Old Fort), Sher Manzil, Lal Bangla, Arabi Sarai, Nizamuddin’s tomb, Neel Bhuj, Makbara Khān Khanna, Chausat Khamba, the well near Nizamuddin’s tomb, the tomb of Khusro, Mirza Jahangir's tomb, the tomb of Jahanara Begum, and Mohammad Sahar’s tomb. Some additional information from the writings of Bholanath Chandra that was not included in the original text is as follows:

• Lal Bangla: Located near Purana Qila, this site has two tombs made of red stone. The larger one was built by Emperor Humayun for one of his wives. The other one belongs to Queen Lal Kaur, wife of Emperor Shah Alam. The name "Lal Bangla" is derived from her name. However, according to Wikipedia, there is some debate about who these tombs actually belong to.
• Arabi Sarai: Near Purana Qila, it is believed to have been built by Haji Begum, Humayun's wife, for Arab Mullahs or possibly as a residence for them. There are two beautiful gates.
• Neel Bhuj: Located near Arabi Sarai, this is a tomb built by a Pathan emperor for a Syed’s tomb. It was once painted blue, but now only traces remain.
• 64 Khamba: This white stone building, which had 64 pillars, is the tomb of Mirza Aziz Baqultugh Khan, son of Ataga Khan, a distinguished member of Akbar’s court. It features white stone latticework.

The author also visited other parts of Old Delhi, such as the Iron Pillar, Lal Kot, Kila-Rai Pithra, Bhoot Khana, Qutub-ul-Ilm Mosque, Qutubuddin’s grave, Qutub Minar, Altamash's tomb, Alai Darwaza, Yogmaya Temple, Metcalfe Hall, Mohammadabad, Tughlaqabad, Jehanpanna, Roushan Chirag, and other historical sites related to the Sultanate and Mughal periods.

In modern Delhi, the author visited various places, including the Red Fort (Lal Qila), Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid, Delhi Museum, Queens’ Garden, Shalimar Bagh, Kumari Masjid, Rasnara Begum’s tomb, and Salimgarh Fort.

Additionally, the author mentions Kashmir Darwaza and Laddlo Castle, associated with the memories of the Sepoy Rebellion. At Delhi Museum, the author saw statues of Jaymal and Putteh, along with other items that were once in the Diwan-i-Khas of the Red Fort. These were later moved to the Delhi Institute, and nearby, there was a broken elephant statue representing Jaymal’s mount.

Like Bholanath Chandra, Bardakanta Sengupta also discusses the Sepoy Rebellion in detail in this book, but since it is not related to the travelogue, it is not included here.