80. A visit to Europe 2 - Trailokya Nath Mukharji

 

  The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

             (Continued from the last part)

In August 1886, the author set sail for Scotland by sea. The ship sailed along the Thames River, then through the North Sea. Gradually, the ship reached the port of Leith in Edinburgh. Edinburgh is a city of picturesque beauty. The view from Castle Hill, Salisbury Hill, and Calton Hill, looking down, is extremely enchanting. In Edinburgh, the author visited Princess Street, Princess Street Gardens, St. Giles' Gothic Cathedral, County Square, and Holyrood, where he saw the rooms of Mary, Queen of Scots, and other distinguished personalities. He also saw Sir Walter Scott’s monument.

The next day, the author traveled to Perth. He observed trout fishing in the beautiful environment of the blue waters of Loch Leven (Loch is what they call lakes in Scotland). From Perth, the author arrived at a small station in the Highlands called Pitlochry. From there, he crossed the Kili-Crankie Pass and walked to Blair Atholl. This route involved passing through many narrow passes, deep ravines, and crossing rivers. From there, the author walked along the Tilt River Gorge for 16 miles. The journey, surrounded by green bushes like carpets on the mountainsides, with the delightful weather and the sound of the river, made the trip very pleasant. In the evening, while standing on the Dee River bridge, he saw how incredibly narrow and dangerous the river had become with strong currents. It was here that the poet Byron had once nearly fallen to his death. While staying in a Highland cottage, the author felt a sense of affection for an Anglo-Indian boy, thinking of him as native.

Next, the author traveled towards Ballater. He first visited Balmoral, the Highland residence of the Empress. Then he visited the Prince of Wales’ Abergelly Estate. He saw the snow-capped peaks of Loch Nagar Mountain. There are many farmhouses in this region. The locals, with respect for their esteemed guest, kept offering the author whiskey and tea. At one point, the author saw many homeless men and women, wanderers who roamed about begging for food.

From Ballater, the author traveled by train to Aberdeen, a developed city located on the sea coast. Here, herring is caught commercially. Also, oysters, prawns, crabs, and other sea products are available. The author then went to the Killin Pier. After crossing Loch Tay on a small steamer, the author saw grassy slopes covered in green, tall trees in dense forests on elevated ground, autumn yellow leaves from deciduous trees, and high mountain peaks, all of which appeared to him like scenes from a fairy tale. Loch Tay has a small island, and on it, there are the ruins of an ancient castle. After that, the author passed through Dalmalley and arrived at Kilchurn. The train track went along the lake for some distance. From a place called Ak-na-Quit, a small steamer travels across Loch Etive. Then, after passing the Connel Ferry Station, the author arrived at Loch Nell. From there, the views of Fort William and Ben Nevis were extremely beautiful.

After spending a few days there, the author went to Glasgow by steamer. Glasgow is one of the largest cities in the world and a major trade port. In Glasgow, the author saw many statues of famous personalities in George Square, a large statue of Sir Walter Scott, the New University, and the Museum. The author then took a horse-drawn carriage towards Trochacks. This path went along Loch Venachar for some distance. The coast was surrounded by dense forests, and many small rivers flowed into the lake. Leaving Loch Achre behind, they entered the Trochacks Gorge. On the right side, there was Ben Alam and on the left, Ben Denou, steep hills covered in dense forests. On the other side of Trochacks was Loch Catrel. It had not been easy to reach here in the past. A steep, tree-rooted ladder path had existed, but now, with the good road, it was much easier to reach. They crossed the lake on a small steamer.

After returning from Scotland, in October 1886, the author went to Oxford. There, he visited Christ College, Queens College, Macdonald College, the Cathedral, the Museum, the Library, and the Man Mandir. The hotel where the author stayed was entirely managed by a woman. The author observed that women in Europe, especially in hotels, shops, pubs, post offices, and factories, worked in positions of responsibility and even worked past midnight, which, at that time, was unimaginable in India.

In the last few days in England, the author visited the notable places in London and its surrounding areas. He visited Parliament twice and watched a session. He saw the clock tower and the Big Ben bell. In Westminster Abbey, the coronations of kings take place, and there are many graves and memorials of kings, queens, and distinguished personalities. He visited the Tower of London, which had been a place of refuge during attacks by foreign enemies on England in the past. The Crown Jewels of England, including the famous Koh-i-Noor, are kept here. Many historically famous individuals had been imprisoned here, and several executions were carried out. One day, the author was present at a prayer ceremony in St. Paul’s Cathedral. Other places the author visited included the Geological Garden, Botanical Garden, Bank of England, National Gallery, Hampton Court, Exchange, the Kensal Green Cemetery (where Dwarkanath Tagore is buried), Madame Tussaud’s wax figure exhibition, etc. The author mentioned that the British Museum had so many diverse items that it would take a lifetime to explore them all.

Finally, on December 13, 1886, the author left England for Rotterdam in the Holland (Netherlands). The next day, while traveling by steamer over the river, the author saw numerous windmills on both sides of the river. The author arrived in the Dutch city of Haarlem. He visited the local museum, which housed various items from Dutch colonies such as Java, Sumatra, Borneo, and the Philippines. The author then proceeded to Amsterdam, where he visited the Zoological Garden, Aquarium, and Museum. The canals of the North Sea and the North Holland Canal connected Amsterdam to the German Sea. The city is divided into 95 islands by canals and connected by 300 bridges. Since the ground is soft, many wooden piles are driven into the soil, upon which the city is built. The royal palace stands on 14,000 piles.

Next, the author’s destination was Paris, France. This most beautiful city was adorned with streets, parks, and palaces. In Paris, the author visited the Museum of Natural History, the Eden Theater, and the New Opera House. Due to wearing a turban, the author was treated with great respect. However, since the author did not know any European languages other than English, he could not enjoy their conversations. He wandered through the boulevards, watched the crowd of energetic people at the Lizee in the evening, saw the Arc de Triomphe, which was built to commemorate Napoleon’s victories, visited the Louvre Museum, and saw the Notre-Dame Cathedral, which was built in the 12th century. He also visited La Chapelle, Pathinian, etc.

After Paris, the author went to the German city of Cologne on the banks of the Rhine River. There, he visited the cathedral and churches. Cologne is also known for producing Eau de Cologne. The author then took the train to Berlin on December 31, 1886. In Germany, the train compartments were equipped with heating systems. A dial was installed on the train's wall to adjust the temperature. The hotel where the author stayed in Berlin had electric lights. It had been snowing day and night, but the hotel maintained a constant temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit with the help of pipes.

From Berlin, the author traveled to Vienna, Austria. Upon reaching a place called Tetschen near the Austrian border, the author had trouble understanding the language and remained on the same train. Later, a ticket collector came and checked the tickets, demanding a high fare because the train was going to a different destination. The author tried to explain that he was traveling on the wrong train and should not be charged. However, the authorities did not seem to understand. At a small station, they forced the author to get off the train and threw his luggage out. In the deep of the night, in the midst of heavy snowfall, the author felt utterly helpless in the mountainous region of Bohemia. Eventually, the author, with great difficulty, gathered his belongings from the tracks and made his way to the stationmaster, who reluctantly helped him arrange for a porter to assist him for money. The porter carried the author’s things and the author followed him. Initially, the snow was deep, and the path was slippery. After walking some distance, they reached a wooden bridge over a large river. The porter took some of the author's silver coins, probably to pay the toll. They arrived at a small town around 3 am, which was half-awake due to Christmas. The porter went to change the author's remaining gold coins and returned to take him to a hotel, where they spent the night. The next morning, the author realized that he had to take a train to Vienna at 9:18 am.

The next day, the author managed to catch a train to Vienna from the nearby station. The train sped through the sea of snow, passing countless small hills, dense pine forests, and picturesque villages. Occasionally, ancient castles were visible.

Vienna was a clean and palatial city, much like Paris. The author visited the royal palace, museums, and libraries there. On December 27, the author left Vienna and traveled by rail through the Austrian Alps.

That night, the author arrived in Venice, Italy. In Venice, the guide showed him a house where Shylock had once kept money. The author visited the Piazza, also known as St. Mark's Square. The author then went to Florence, the city of flowers, where he was mesmerized by the stunning paintings, sculptures, and masterpieces of artists like Raphael and Michelangelo.

From Florence, the author arrived in Rome on December 31, 1886. In Rome, he was unable to visit the Vatican because it was the holiday season, and he didn’t have enough time to obtain permission. However, he did visit the Colosseum and the Flavian Amphitheater. Afterward, he went to Naples, where he saw the museum, aquarium, underground tombs, and art gallery.

From Naples, the author went to Brindisi, where a ship took him to Alexandria. Finally, on January 3, 1887, the author left Europe and returned home by regular mail ship, after spending almost nine months in Europe. 

79. A visit to Europe 1 - Trailokya Nath Mukharji

 

   The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

"A Visit to Europe" is the account of Trilakyanath Mukharji's (1847-1919) travel experiences in Europe. This Bengali literary figure is known as the creator of humour in Bengali literature. His notable works include Kankabati, Bhoot O Manush, Fokla Digambar, and Domru Charit. He worked as a teacher, in the police force, as a clerk at the Bengal Gazette, and in the revenue department. In 1886, he was sent to England to attend the Colonial Exhibition, and his experiences are recorded in this book. Upon his return, he became the assistant curator at the Kolkata Museum.

The first publication of A Visit to Europe was in 1889. Before being published as a book, his writings were serialized every week in the Indian Nation magazine for a year and a half.

On March 12, 1886, the author embarked on his journey to England aboard the ship Nepal. After the ship set sail, the passengers on deck began observing how the waters of the Indian Ocean gradually turned from green to blue. The sunlight faded, and the lighthouse's light could no longer be seen. In the deep darkness, only the white foam of the phosphorus in the sea was visible. Over time, the unfamiliar Indians aboard the ship slowly began to familiarize themselves with one another. The author compared the passenger ship to a huge, wealthy house. On the deck, passengers could engage in various activities such as walking, exercising, playing chess, and more. There was a separate room for smoking. When the views of the sea and the flying fish became monotonous, people spent their time in these ways. Occasionally, someone would play the piano and sing on deck. Below deck, there were two long rows of cabins, each accommodating two, three, or four people with sleeping arrangements. There was a dining room for meals and a saloon for other activities such as sitting and reading. Meal times were fixed, and the food was nutritious, with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian options available. Hindus could have their meals prepared separately if desired. The crew arranged for the necessary stoves and utensils. The ship had a library, and occasionally, a ladies' room.

Six days after leaving Bombay, the rugged hills of Aden were visible. Dark-skinned boys swam over to beg for money, and traders came to sell ostrich feathers and eggs. After disembarking at Aden, the author observed that there were no trees except for small, thorny ones. Two miles away, in an Arabian city, there were small gardens, but no large trees. It rained only three to four inches a year in this region. Dams had been built long ago to store water. There were 50 reservoirs, including the Mareb Dam, built 2,500 years ago, 13 of which were still functional at the time. Water from these reservoirs was sold to the people at one rupee per 100 gallons. Since the British arrived, trade, peace, and prosperity had increased. There were many coffee houses, where Arabs and Somalis drank coffee day and night. Coffee was invented by them, originating from the mountains of Yemen. Since drinking alcohol was prohibited by the Quran, the Arabs adopted coffee as a stimulating drink.

The story of the Ramayana is strangely evolved in Aden. A historian named Mojahir wrote that King Dashashira (ten-headed Ravana) used to send criminals into exile to Aden, where there was a well in the mountains connected by a tunnel to India. According to the story, Dashashira's demon, while flying with Ram Haidar's wife, stopped to rest on the Jebelsiya mountain and threatened to turn her into a demon. During their argument, a monkey-like being named Hanbit heard the commotion and quickly built a tunnel from Ujjain Vikram to the mountain, where he found Ram Haidar's wife sleeping under a thorn tree. He carried her through the tunnel and returned her to Ram in Ujjain Vikram. Later, Ram and his wife had two sons, Luv and Kush. The author mentions that trade between India and Arabia existed in ancient times, and gradually, the stories of the Ramayana and Vikramaditya (the story of King Vikramaditya of Ujjaini and Betal) merged to form new versions. The tunnel is said to still exist.

Leaving Aden, the author traveled through the Babel Mandeb Strait and the Red Sea, passing seven islands known as the "Seven Apostles." He witnessed a joyful display of dolphins. Eventually, they reached the Suez port. After disembarking from the Indian mail ship, they traveled to Alexandria by train. The author's ship entered the Suez Canal, which connects Asia and Africa and establishes a link between the Red Sea and the Mediterranean. Previously, ships had to travel around the Cape of Good Hope, but with the Suez Canal, the distance between Kolkata and London was reduced by 3,500 miles. It took them two days to cross the Suez Canal. After passing through Port Said, they entered the Mediterranean. Then, their ship reached Valletta, the main city of the British-controlled Malta archipelago. From here, they could see the peak of Mount Etna in Sicily. Malta is a rocky island, and the soil used for farming was brought from Sicily. The oranges grown here are famous.

The ship then sailed along the coast of Africa. A regular passenger pointed out various locations along the coasts of Tripoli, Tunisia, and Morocco. The ship continued along the coast of Spain, and they saw the mountain peaks of Spain. They then arrived at the Strait of Gibraltar, which connects the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean. The two mountains on either side of the strait were once known as the Pillars of Hercules in ancient times. After crossing the Gibraltar Strait, the ship entered the Atlantic.

Although the weather was fine, the ship encountered large waves coming from the west, causing it to tilt. Walking on deck became impossible, and the author even feared falling out of bed. Later, the author observed a whale spouting water through its blowhole. Several sharks followed the ship for a long distance. The ship finally reached Plymouth, England. It was just a 24-hour journey to London. Finally, the author arrived at Albert Dock near London. Filled with emotion, the author was overcome with feelings of joy and fulfillment after reaching the dream destination of England.

The journey to London by train took just half an hour, and the author was impressed by the clean, well-maintained streets, houses, and shops, and reflected on the lack of cleanliness awareness among Indians. From the next day, the author began attending the exhibition. During breaks, he visited Westminster Bridge, the Whitehall Palace, and Oxford Street. One day, the Prince of Wales visited the exhibition, and the author had the opportunity to meet him.

One of the wonders of London the author saw was the underground railway system. This railway is divided into the Inner Circle and the Outer Circle. The first passes through densely populated central London in a tunnel with arches, and the stations are located outside. There are 48 stations in the two circles, and trains run every three minutes, with many passengers. Despite the hustle and bustle, there was no shouting like among Indian passengers. People here speak in soft tones, even in public places and at home. Advertising was everywhere—on stations, trains, and along the streets. Besides the underground railway, there were suburban and provincial railways around London. These railways connected to places like Scotland, Belgium, France, Dover, and Calais. Omnibuses, pulled by horses, also ran across the city, and steam boats crossed the Thames every five minutes. Vehicles like horse-drawn cabs and two-wheeled hansoms also traversed the streets. Pedestrians walked on the right, and vehicles followed the left.

On May 4, 1886, the British colonies and India's exhibition was inaugurated. Princes and princesses came to see the exhibition. The Empress hosted a special train trip for the writers to Windsor, where they were treated to a royal feast at Windsor Palace. They were introduced to the Empress, and the author saw various chambers of Windsor Castle, famous paintings, the memorial of Prince Albert (Queen Victoria's husband), the chapel, and the Long Walk, a three-mile avenue.

An excursion was arranged for the participants of the exhibition, and the author traveled through the beautiful English countryside, observing the lush greenery and comfortable summer scenes. The author also visited Cambridge for a university event held at the Senate House, a beautiful building modeled after the Temple of Jupiter in Rome. The university's library, containing over 400,000 books, was also visited. Afterward, the author toured several cities in Great Britain, including Manchester, Liverpool, Birkhead, Bristol, Bath, and Wales. At Bristol, the author paid his respects at the grave of Raja Ram Mohan Roy. Popular health resorts have been developed around the hot springs in Bath. The author visited these places one by one.

                 (To be continued)