10. Tirtha Mangal 5 Bijayram Senbisharad

       Travels of Bengalis in the Past

                ---– Sumana Dam

            (Continued from the last part)

Now it's time to return. Everyone set off first towards Fatuwa. The boat traveled via Joragram, Gazipur, and stayed the night at Murdpur. There, there is the Lingadev Rameshwar, which the poet says was established by Shri Ramachandra. The night was spent at Arjunpur, under Bhojpur. 

The boat traveled with the Shon river on the left and the Ganga on the right. The boat reached Patna via Serpur and Danapur (where there is an English fort, i.e., a shelter). Many passengers were given money to return home, and the chief stayed in Patna for about a month.

Then the chief went to Fatuwa by palki (palanquin). From Fatuwa, the journey continued by boat. The chief bid farewell to the Munshi here. Gaurishankar was seen from afar. The boat reached Munger via Chaukighata, Dariyapur, and Suryagarh. They went to Sitakunda and offered their prayers. Then they visited the Shiva temple at Bateswar on the mountain, going through Jangira and Sultaniganj. The boat arrived at Patharghata via Bhagalpur, Champa Nagar, and Sujaganj. Night was spent at Pirpaiti. 

Afterward, night was spent at Rajmahal, traveling through Teliagarhi and Sokrigli. The boat saw a storm on the water and, fearing it, docked by the river in a reed bed for cooking. Cooking and eating were done while hearing the roar of tigers in the muddy water. 

The boat continued its journey. Passing through Khajuria and Suti, it continued southward. The boat arrived at Sahebghata, where Pirzada Saheb resides. Pirzada Saheb is a Muslim fakir of great importance, visited by both Hindus and Muslims. The journey then went through Fatullapur, Durgapur, Jangipur, and Lakshmipur to Muksudabad (Murshidabad). They bathed and ate at Sadhakbag. On the west bank are Hirajhil and Seth's garden. The next day, everyone went to offer prayers at Kiriteshwari. Now, the boat moved on, leaving Mangaltuli, the Nawab’s house, on the left. It passed Sainkuli and Dahapara on the right and arrived at Kashimbazar. Kashimbazar is a large town with many prominent people. It moved on through Syedabad, Khidderpur, Chumrigacha, Shrishyam Nagar, and Palashi, arriving at Katwa. 

On the right is Barabazar, and on the left is Matiyari. Raghunandan Mitra’s twelfth Shiva temple is here. The boat then arrived at Agradvip, passing through Dai, Burarani Ghat, and Manikchandra’s Ghat. At Agradvip is the Gopinath Thakur temple, established by Sri Chaitanya at the house of the disciple of Chaitanya Dev, Govinda Ghosh Thakur. However, as Gopinath resides at Raja Navakrishna's residence (in Shobhabazar Rajbari in Kolkata), the travelers could not visit it and were disappointed. The journey continued through Kashipur, Ghoraikhetra, and Gotapara, arriving at Navadwip. There are said to be seventeen hundred Brahmins and many professors there. 

The boat went through Temohoni and fell into the water of Khorya. It arrived at Shantipur via the Gokulganj Ghat. Gradually, it reached Guptipara, Phulya-Nabala, Haridham, Somra, Chakdaha, Jirat, Kanchrapara, Halisahar, Tribeni, Bansberia, Hooghly, Chuchura, Farasdanga, Gourhati, Nimai Tirtha Ghat, Muniramapur, Dighanga, and Mahesh (where Jagannath Dev is present, and the travelers offered their respects from the boat). Finally, the boat reached Konnagar, Agarpara, Sukchar (where they responded to the damama as it is Deewanjir’s village), Bali, Baranagar, Chitpur, and arrived at Kolkata city. Thus, the boat reached Khidderpur Ganga Ghat. The journey ended. 

Many people came solely to see the pilgrims and seek share of virtues. Krishna Chandra Ghosal mahasaya performed the pilgrimage rites with much fanfare. Thus, the poet concluded the travelogue of Bijay Ram's pilgrimage.

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9. Tirtha Mangal 4 Bijayram Senbisharad

       Travels of Bengalis in the past 

                  — Sumana Dam

         (Continued from the last part)

Many travelers arrived in Gaya and became companions of the Karta (the leader). Now,  Ghoshal karta had resolved to go to Kashi (Varanasi). Along with Ghoshal mahasaya  were travelers from Maharashtra, Kurukshetra, Odisha, Dhaka, and ancient Bengal. They entered the Tikari region with guards in front and behind. The king there was Sundar Sa, who was killed by Mir Qasim. Everyone was taken to his residence, where they were provided with large rooms and carpets. After passing through Kochgram and viewing the beautiful gardens of Dharara, they touched the water of the ancient Ganges. They encountered the Shon River on the way.

They reached Sarsara (Sasaram). The poet mentions that this place was once the residence of Harishchandra. According to the Puranas, the name of the mountain Rohitashvagadh or Rohtasgarh comes from the name of Harishchandra's son, Rohitashva. Additionally, it is said that the grave of Aurangzeb (referred to as Aurang Patshar by the poet) is here, but in reality, the grave of Emperor Sher Shah of Delhi is located here. The travelers were impressed by the exquisite construction of the grave.

The travelers crossed the Karmanasha River by riding on people's shoulders for a small fee. It was a common belief that touching the river’s water would ruin all the religious deeds performed from birth. They crossed Moghal Sarai and saw the distant flag of Beni Madhav. They spent the night in the garden of Dulavipur.

In Kashi, the Varuna River is on the north side and the Assi River on the south side. The settlement of Kashi is in a semi-circular shape. Everyone bathed and performed religious rites in the river. The boat was kept at the Bengali Ghat (Bengali Toll) in Kashi. After performing puja to Visheshwar Shiva and Annada Devi, and giving donations, they made offerings at the Panchatirtha (five sacred places) including Manikarnika.

Next, they traveled to Prayag. They visited Mohansarai, Maharajganj, Madhav Sarai, Gopiganj, Jagdish Sarai, Kuch, Jhusi (Jhusi), and saw the ashram of Gautam, and the Yajna Kunda of Yudhishthir before crossing the Ganges. They bathed in the confluence of the Yamuna and Ganges at Prayag. They performed Pindadan (a ritual offering to ancestors) and bid farewell to Brahmins. They visited Beni Madhav and performed puja at the Panchatirtha before visiting the Prayag Fort. They saw the Akshay Vat (immortal banyan tree). They visited Dashashwamedh, Bharadwaj Ashram, and some companions went to Vrindavan. Ghoshal mahasaya returned to Kashi.

By boat, they reached Vindhyavasini’s shrine after crossing one and a half krosha (a measure of distance) of hilly terrain and offered a sacrifice. They arrived in Kashi via Mirzapur (Mrijapur) and Chunar. With great fanfare, Ghoshal mahasaya established a Shiva temple in the name of his ancestors, Kandarp Ghoshal, and worshipped deities including Vishwanath, Annapurna, Kal Bhairav, Kedar, Visheshwar, and Tilvandeswar. They bathed in all the kundas (sacred tanks), including Durga Kund. The Brahmins of Kashi, dressed in exquisite attire with sandalwood on their foreheads and Ruli marks, seemed like celestial beings. The poet commented that no one had done what Queen Bhavani of Kashi had done — building large houses, distributing wealth for the year, and setting up temples to fulfill every wish. The flag of Madhav (Madhav's dhwaja) is on the bank of the Ganges, 200 feet high, with a beautiful spiral staircase to climb. The travelers paid a small fee and could see far into the distance.

Now, some of the travelers were given money by the Karta and sent home. They returned to their own places. The Karta and many others began to suffer from spring fever (Vasanta Roga), prompting him to plan his return journey. The accompanying physician cured him. Subsequently, Ghoshal mahasaya went to meet King Balvant Singh of Kashi at his palace across the river at Shriramnagar, traveling by ten boats through the Assi Canal. Everyone was pleased with the magnificent palace. The Karta had discussions and interactions with the king.

(To be continued)

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8. Tirtha Mangal 3 Bijayram Senbisharad

Travels of Bengalis in the past

----- Sumana Dam

             (Continued from the last part)

Krishnachandra Ghoshal and his fellow travelers arrived again at Fatwa, where the Punpun River merges with the Ganges. There, they performed Shraddha and Tarpan, making offerings of pindas. By the leader's command, everyone abandoned cooked rice and betel leaves. Next, they reached the Hilsa sahar, which had beautiful gardens. They stayed there, and to avoid the sun, Ghoshal mahasaya started traveling by boat at night. They then arrived at Islampur, a very beautiful city where people drink water from the Indara or well. After traveling by boat at night, they reached Gaya at dawn.

The leader, along with everyone, traveled in a palanquin and on horses. On the way, they had to pay fees at various checkpoints, supposedly to a wealthy person named Madhab Ram. The leader stayed at the garden house of King Ramnarayan. On that day, prominent people from Gaya came to meet the leader. They learnt about the Falgu River, the lofty mountains, and other details. The women of Gaya were described as exceptionally beautiful and moved gracefully. Everyone practiced restraint, as misdeeds would lead to hell. Ghoshal mahasaya and all the travelers then proceeded to perform the Shraddha rituals in Gaya. With the help of Gaya’s priests, they made donations and offerings of food to Brahmins by the Falgu River, and gave a penny each to fakirs and Vaishnavas to complete the rites.

The next day, they visited Ramshila and the site of the crow sacrifice. At the extremely high Ramshila, everyone made pindas. They bowed to the statue of Lord Ram at the mountain peak, offered pindas in the Ram lake and completed shraddha at Kakboli before returning. The following day, after bathing in the Falgu River and visiting the Preta Shila, they made pindas and then offered Tarpan at Brahmakund. In the heat, everyone returned home and had curd with rice. He remarked that nowhere else was curd as good as in Gaya. The next day, pindas were offered at the Panchatirtha. The five holy places are Uttar Manas, Udeechi, Kankhal, Dakshin Manas, and Jivalol. Afterwards, the leader traveled in a palanquin to Dharmaranya, a place full of beggars.

They then proceeded to Bodh Gaya, which had many stone statues of deities. The following day, after bathing and performing Tarpan at Brahma Sarovar, they continued their journey. The leader provided a feast for the Brahmins. In the morning, pindas were offered at Vishnu Rudrapad.

For two days, pindas were offered at the sixteen Vedis, as described by the poet in this text: Brahmapad, Kartik Pad, Satya Path, Dakshinagni Pad, Ahvaniya Pad, Chandrapad, Dadichi Pad, Ganesh Pad, Surya Pad, Karan Pad, Matanga Pad, Krouncha Pad, Panchganesh, Kashyap Pad, Abasthya, Gharhpati, and Agastya. The poet also described the Eight Pilgrimages as follows: Ramgaya, Sita Kund, Gaya Shir, Gaya Kup, Mundapith, Adi Gaya, Dhautapad, Bhim Gaya, Goprachara, and Gadalol. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal made pindas at these eight places. He made a generous donation to the Akshay Daan Sagar, giving gold jewelry, five hundred rupees, and other items to the Pandit. The other travelers contributed according to their means.

The next day, they visited Vishnu Pad and gave eight tolas of gold. They performed additional worship of Gadadhar and Gayeshwari. On that day, with a cook from Maharashtra, they prepared a feast for fourteen Gaya residents. (To be continued)

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7. Tirtha Mongol 2 Bijayram Senbisharad

      Travels of Bengalis in the past 

                  — Sumana Dam

         (Continued from the last part)

In the next part, they reached Rajmahal Hills. The hilly areas of Rajmahal were notorious for the mischief of mountain thieves. Therefore, everyone was on high alert, and the boat started moving at great speed. On the left was Udanala or Udaynala (now Udhra in Jharkhand), the battlefield where Major Adams of the British forces fought against Mir Qasim. The boat sped past this point and arrived at Rajmahal in Jharkhand. Everyone was overwhelmed by the sight of Rajmahal city. The city spanned five kroshes with numerous buildings, markets, shops, and frequent clocktowers indicating the time. The Fauzdar arrived in a palki to meet Krishna Chandra and offered a 100 rupee nazarana, but Krishna Chandra declined the money. He had a lengthy discussion with him. Various travelers took refuge in different houses. Ghosal mahasay made rounds to check on everyone about their comfortable stay. 

After staying in Rajmahal for two days, the journey resumed. They saw mountains as high as clouds, and on top of the mountains were the homes of the Chuhars or Chuars, an indigenous tribe of the Santhal Parganas. Adorned with neckpieces, earrings, bangles, and anklets, and carrying sticks, the travelers were initially frightened. One Chuhar, acting as a representative, offered a plantain to Ghosal mahasay and received a monetary reward and kind words in return.

The boat then proceeded to Sakrigali. On one side was the mountain and on the other, the Ganges. The next day, passing by Telyagadi (Teliagari) on the left, the boat continued. After Siraj-ud-Daulah's defeat at the Battle of Plassey, he had taken refuge with a faqir in a village near Rajmahal. The faqir secretly sent message to Siraj's enemies, and Mir Jafar's brother, Mir Daud, imprisoned Siraj and his family here. The boat passed this location and continued on. Lakshmipur and Shrampur were left behind, and the boat proceeded to Boteswar Mountain in Bihar. There were many temples on the mountain. Ghosal mahashay performed a puja there and also offered his respects at Muni's hermitage. 

The boat then arrived at the stone-paved ghat at Patharghata, where they stayed overnight. The next day, they traveled past Paha Raja or Raja's Bati Kahlgram (an ancient city with many old relics, including the Vikramshila Mahavihara excavated later) and spent the night in Khagra. 

The following day, they passed Chapkali, Dohargadh, and Dhirnagar on the right and Bhagalpur, Sujaganj on the left, reaching Shivganj. After refreshments and bathing, the boat set off again. They spent the night in Gopalpur (Bihar). 

The next day, the boat arrived at Jahangir or Jangira. To the left was a beautiful mountain and to the right, hills in the river. Various sculptures were carved into the mountain. On top of the mountain were the temples of Gaurishankar and several beautiful buildings. Various rituals were performed for Shiva. The boat then set off to perform puja at Baidyanath Dham. From this place, the Ganges flows north, so the water here was considered sacred. 

The boat then continued past Jangir, Ghograhat on the left, and Kashipara’s market on the right. In the distance, Munger’s mountain was visible. They spent the night at Kodalighat. 

In the morning, the boat continued, passing Sacho Dhan Pir’s house on the left. Guruguni Saheb or Gurgin Khan alias Gregory, an Armenian, had a shelter there. He and his brother Pedru were famous for their valor. Guruguni Saheb was a general in Mir Qasim’s army and fought against the British. To the west of this place was the hot spring of Sitakund, a pilgrimage site for Hindus. The boatmen sang songs to advance the boat. 

When the boat reached the western part of Munger, a person named Manohar Mukherjee welcomed everyone to his home for the night. The next day, they visited the Munger Fort. The stone fort, spanning two kroshes, was extremely beautiful, with numerous mosques and many soldiers on guard. Inside the fort was the place of King Karna, who was said to donate one and a quarter mounds of gold daily. He would fry his body in a cauldron filled with thirty mounds of ghee and offer it to Goddess Kali. She accepted this offering and granted him life again with her blessings. King Karna would then distribute gold freely to Brahmins. King Vikramaditya was puzzled by where Karna obtained so much gold. He disguised himself as a Shudra and spoke with Vikramaditya. Karna Raja gave him a hundred tankas as salary. One night, while Karna Raja was asleep, Vikramaditya performed a similar worship of Kali. Goddess Kali granted him life and miraculous powers. Karna Raja woke up realizing that Goddess Kali had left him. Vikramaditya assured Karna Raja not to worry as he would give as much gold as needed for donations. Karna Raja did not believe that Vikramaditya had the power to obtain unlimited gold through Kali's grace. Vikramaditya then revealed his true identity. Karna Raja sought forgiveness from Vikramaditya. This is a well-known story. 

The next day, passing Safarabaz on the left and crossing Singhonala, Choukighata, and Surynala, the boat reached Suryaghar. A severe storm arose. The travelers, fearing the boat would sink, started praying to their deities. It is said that Kashinath heard the desperate prayers of Krishna Chandra and the storm ceased. They stayed the night at Shankar Majumdar’s house and then spent the next night on the sandbanks of Dariapur. The boat then arrived at a place called Badh. There was a dispute with a boatman named Bhola Barkandaz, but the soldiers, seeing the authority, became fearful. They praised the authority and sought forgiveness. While staying there, Ramananda Sarkar arrived. He assured that appropriate justice would be served regarding the dispute. The next night, the boat took shelter in Debipur.

The following day, they visited Gaurishankar Devata near Vaikunthpur for darshan and puja. Then the boat arrived in Fatwa city or Fatwa, the confluence of the Ganges and Punpun rivers and a pilgrimage site. Here, travelers performed shraddha and had to go to Gaya. The market there sold various colored fabrics. They spent the night in the city. 

The next day, the boat traveled to Raja Ramnarayan’s garden. Ramnarayan was a trusted friend of Nawab Ali Vardi Khan and the deputy of Patna. During Siraj-ud-Daula’s time, he was the commander of the Nawabi army, and under Mir Jafar, he was also the deputy of Patna. He was imprisoned and killed in Patna during Mir Qasim’s reign. They passed Lonagala, Rekabganj, Maruganj, and Adamat, and the boat stopped at Faras’s Kuti Ghat. 

Everyone arrived in Patna. They stayed at Vishnu Singh’s house, a beautiful, well-built home with large rooms. Four hundred travelers stayed in this house while others stayed elsewhere. Patna was a large city with big houses, markets, and some dirty lanes. The authority sent a gift to the Subedar of Patna, Setab Rai, along with Munshi Vishwanath. The authority himself later visited the Subedar. Setab Rai, the Subedar of Azimabad, presented gifts such as horses and shawls. After this, Krishna Chandra Ghosal lived in Patna for some time. During this period, the English officer, Dewan Shantiram, gave Ghosal mahasaya various information. They were then joined by Mansa Ram, the chief Kothiwal of Patna, who had been oppressed and plundered by Nawab Mir Qasim.

(To be continued)

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6. Tirtha Mangal 1 Bijayram Senbisharad

The travels of Bengalis in the past

------ Sumana Dam

The earliest travel literature discovered in Bengali literature so far is "Tirtha Mangal," written by Bijayram Senbisharad. The first printed edition of this work was published in 1915 (Bengali year 1308) by the Bangiya Sahitya Parishad Mandir, edited by Nagendranath Basu.

Bijayram Sen, whose title was Bisharad, was a Vaidya by caste as well as by profession, residing at Bhajonghat near Nonaganj in Nadia district along the Ichhamati River. At that time, Bhajonghat was part of the zamindari of Krishna Chandra Ghoshal. When Krishna Chandra set out on a pilgrimage to Kashi, Bijayram accompanied him as a physician. Although he was not present for the details of the journey from Khidirpur to Puntimari in Nadia, he wrote about it based on Krishna Chandra’s accounts. He was favored by Krishna Chandra and wrote this book under his direction. The book describes that it was completed in the month of Bhadra in 1177 Bengali year, corresponding to 1770 AD. This journey likely took place around 1769 AD, inferred from other details in the book. The work is a metrical poem according to the customs of the time. Information about Krishna Chandra Ghoshal is also found in the book "Karuna Nidhana Bilasa" by his son, Maharaja Jaynarayan Ghoshal. The family's wealth began with Krishna Chandra’s father, Kandarpa Ghoshal, who settled in Govindapur but later moved to Behala and then Khidirpur due to the construction of Fort William by the British. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal was the elder son, while the second son, Gokul Chandra, was appointed as Dewan during the governorship of Lord Clive’s successor, Verelost, and effectively became the ruler of Bengal. Gokul Chandra arranged all expenses for Krishna Chandra’s pilgrimage to Kashi. According to Bijayram, Gokul Chandra provided one lakh rupees for expenses, though whether this amount is exaggerated is uncertain. Krishna Chandra's pilgrimage resembled a royal procession, where not only relatives but also any interested pilgrims at the locations where the boat stopped were included.

In 1765 AD, Bengal came under British rule. Shortly after, the book provides historical details about the condition, mindset, and geographical location of the general public, and includes interviews with notable persons such as Krishna Chandra. Krishna Chandra started his journey by boat, accompanied by tents, canopies, palanquins, valuables, and various employees - munshi, bakshees, sepoys, bargadars, workers, letter carriers, torchbearers, along with many Brahmins, non-Brahmins, ascetics, Vaishnavas, and Vaishnavis. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal set out on a boat. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal embarked with many barges, peacock winged boats, sailboats, and narrow boats.

The journey began with worship at Kalighat and then embarked on the Ganges. Bakul Chandra and Krishna Chandra’s son Jaynarayan Ghoshal came to bid farewell. The flotilla then reached Shibpur, Krishna Chandra’s own residence. After crossing Chandpal’s Ghat and Banmali Sarkar’s Ghat, Krishna Chandra met Raghunath Mitra of the Mitra clan of Kumartuli and Raja Nabakrishna Mitra, the founder of Shobhabazar. They rested at Bagbazar’s Ghat that night. The next day, they passed Chitpur and Baranagar on the right and reached Balirghat, where they stayed that night. The following day, they bathed and performed worship at Sukh Char.

The journey continued with an overnight stay at Farasdanga, i.e., Chandannagar. The next day, Rajkishore Roy, Dewan of Hooghly, met Krishna Chandra. After crossing Kumarhatta, Halisahar, and Kanchrapara, they reached Balaghar and stayed there that night with drumbeats (damama).

The next day, they passed Somrabajar and Guptipara and reached the boat at Gokul Ghosh’s created Bakulganj, which had temples for the Ten Mahavidyas and Ram Lakshman Sita, now no longer existing. At Guptipara, Krishna Chandra donated to the learned Brahmins at the Ram Temple.

The next day, they crossed Ambika, Harinadi (a prosperous village now submerged in the Ganges), and Kalna, reaching Navadwip. Bijayram described Navadwip as equally holy as Kashi. After paying respects to the deities of Navadwip, the boat continued. They stayed the night at Goayari, and the following night at Harra or Hatra.

The next day, Bijayram arrived at Puntimari in Nadia, where Krishna Chandra appointed him as the family physician.

Bijayram wrote about a prosperous locality called Tungibali, which is now Ballitungi in Murshidabad. They stayed the night there, and a penniless Bengal old woman died. Krishna Chandra arranged her funeral at his own expense. The next day, after leaving Madhupur, they rested at Kushberia.

The following day, they arrived at the confluence of the Jalangi River, where the strong currents of the Padma River frightened the travelers. The boatmen were scared, and eventually, they safely reached the ancient city of Jalangi, now submerged. In Jalangi, a local zamindar sent four sepoys. They accompanied the boat in a separate vessel. Many notable people from Jalangi came to meet Krishna Chandra. Hindus and Muslims alike greeted him with respect and admiration. Krishna Chandra made generous donations and, after hearing praise and appreciation, stayed two days before resuming the journey. They rested at Kodalimari that night.

Along the way, they saw the famous city of Tara Ganya. The boat then reached Bhagabangola Hat, where the prosperity of the market impressed everyone. After staying there for two days, the boat continued. They passed Kaliganj, where they saw the mighty Mahananda River. Various metal utensils were bought. They left Dhulauri and Tattipur behind and stayed at Shivganj, founded by Shivnarayan, who was the son of Darpanarayana, the kanungo of the Murshidabad Nawab. Kaliganj and Shivganj were riverine ports at that time, noted by the poet as Bandar (port).

(To be continued)

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