The travels of Bengalis in the Past
---- Sumana Dam
Entrepreneur Dwarakanath Tagore (1794-1846) traveled extensively both within India and abroad. Although he did not write any travelogues himself, several of his letters to different individuals have been found, some of which were published in the contemporary journal Friend of India.
In 1835, Dwarakanath Tagore embarked on a journey to the West for health reasons. He traveled by horse-drawn carriage along the Grand Trunk Road, accompanied by many armed bodyguards, servants, attendants, a Bengali physician, and an English doctor, due to the risk of wild animals and bandits. One of the purposes of his journey was also to explore markets for trade.
He first visited the coal mines in Raniganj, which he purchased in 1836. He then traveled to Varanasi, where he made arrangements to export all the handloomed fabrics from Varanasi to various European countries via Kolkata. Afterward, he traveled to Allahabad, then to Agra, Mathura, and Vrindavan. Very little is known about this part of his travels due to a lack of correspondence.
In 1838 and 1840-41, he traveled again to Northwestern India, primarily for health reasons. It is known that he made many charitable donations at pilgrimage sites during this journey.
The main reasons for his journey to Europe were to change the climate for his health, see new sights, and engage in business relations. On January 9, 1842, he sailed to Britain aboard his own ship, India, accompanied by his nephew Chandramohan Chattopadhyay, an English doctor, a secretary, three servants, and a Muslim cook. During this time, he kept a diary, many details from which were later used by his biographer Kishori Chand Mitra. However, the diary was later lost.
In Ceylon (Sri Lanka), he was fascinated by the mountains, valleys, and coconut trees, appreciating the fertile land. Upon anchoring at Galle, he went ashore and explored. From a distance, he saw Adam's Peak, which, according to legend, has a footprint measuring about twenty feet. He visited Galle Fort, the harbor, and the local markets, where the Sinhalese rushed to sell goods and fruits. The country’s harbors, palaces, and cleanliness impressed him, and he noted that the fruits were larger and juicier compared to those in Bengal, and the flowers had more vivid colors.
The ship India later docked at the Suez port, and Dwarakanath and his companions disembarked while the ship returned to Kolkata. While traveling through the desert by horse-drawn carriage, he saw mirages. He stayed at a caravanserai for rest and passed through towns, fortresses, mosques, palaces, gardens, baths, and pyramids. He then continued his journey through Subra to Cairo by steamer, navigating along the Nile River.
In Alexandria, he observed the local dwellings, which were dirty and crowded, while the European quarters were beautiful. The hotels were comfortable, meeting European standards. He was particularly impressed by the new palace of Pasha Muhammad Ali, built in 1814, which was located near the sea. One of the palace rooms had nearly 60 feet of seawater flooding into a square pool, creating a unique spectacle.
The group had to quarantine in Malta, where they stayed in a comfortable seaside hotel. He enjoyed the rest and sightseeing on foot. In Valletta, he admired the beautiful decorations of the churches and cathedrals, although he believed the St. John’s Cathedral there could not compare to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. He also attended an opera and visited the British warship Queen. He was particularly impressed by a children’s school in Malta, where children were not confined but freely chose to stay.
From Malta, he traveled to Sicily, where he saw Mount Etna, the beautiful city of Messina, the Aeolian Islands, and Stromboli volcano before heading to Naples. He was struck by the beauty of Naples, with wide roads, clean streets, and shops lit by gas lamps at night. He also visited the San Carlo Theater, one of Europe’s largest and most beautifully decorated theaters.
He then journeyed to Rome, traveling in a four-horse carriage with the horses changed every ten miles. He was both thrilled and a little apprehensive about the mountainous roads. He marveled at the grandeur and beauty of St. Peter’s Church and the many other galleries, fountains, and libraries in Rome. He greatly enjoyed the temperate climate. During his time in Rome, he had an audience with the Pope at the Papal Palace, becoming the first Indian to meet him. The library in the palace was so vast that it was hard to see from one end to the other. He heard that the Papal Palace had twelve thousand rooms, each decorated with paintings and sculptures by famous artists.
He then visited Florence, Bologna, Padua, and Venice. In Venice, he was surprised by the canals that formed the streets. He was enchanted by the beauty of the Alps.
Traveling by carriage through Germany, he praised the standard of education there. From Frankfurt, he took a train to Mainz, then crossed the Rhine River by a floating bridge and continued by steamer to Cologne, where he admired the cathedral.
Later, aboard the steamer Rainbow, he crossed the English Channel. After stopping in Dover and Canterbury, he arrived in London on June 10, five months and two days after leaving Kolkata.
In London, he was captivated by the energy of the city, the transportation, the shops, and the people. He was introduced to the royal family and aristocracy, and he found their gardens to be much more beautiful than his own garden in Belgharia. He was invited by Queen Victoria and also met famous British authors like Walter Scott and Charles Dickens.
He then visited Scotland, where he explored Glasgow and Edinburgh, and England, where he visited Liverpool, Manchester, and Sheffield, showing a keen interest in their industrial technology.
He also visited Bristol, where he arranged to have Raja Ram Mohan Roy’s remains moved from his jungle grave and reburied with an Indian architectural memorial at Arnos Vale.
On October 15, 1842, he boarded a ship and after three days, arrived in Paris. He described Paris as a city full of beauty, vibrancy, and a hub of knowledge and art. He was enchanted by the city’s entrance and its radiant beauty. King Louis-Philippe of France hosted him during his stay.
Dwarakanath Tagore set sail for India again on October 9, 1842, from Marseilles. He reached Kolkata in December, after spending almost eleven months abroad.
His second trip abroad began on March 8, 1845, from Kolkata aboard the ship Bentinck. This time, he was accompanied by his 16-year-old youngest son, Nagendranath, his nephew Nabinchandra Mukhopadhyay, his personal English doctor, his private secretary, and three servants.
In Cairo, Muhammad Ali Pasha, the Viceroy of the Ottoman Empire and ruler of Egypt, gave him a warm welcome. When his ship arrived at Naples, he was greeted with cannon salutes. He then visited Pisa, Genoa, and Paris. King Louis-Philippe often invited him to the royal palace, and in London, he was again invited by the Queen. After spending some time in Paris, he returned to London.
However, his health deteriorated due to a life of excessive indulgence and lack of rest. His extravagant lifestyle led to mounting debts.
Finally, on August 1, 1846, he passed away at the St. George’s Hotel in London. His Indian royal attire and remarkable generosity had made him well known as a prince in London and Paris. He was buried with great respect at Kensal Green Cemetery, although his grave was simple compared to his colorful life.
Source: Memoir of Dwarakanath Tagore - Kishori Chand Mitra (1870)
