67. Kashmir-Kusum 3 - Rajendra Mohan Bosu

 

  The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

             (Continued from the last part)

Western Kashmir:

When traveling by boat from Srinagar, after crossing the Safa Kadal Bridge, to the left, the river Dudh Ganga flows. A little further, on the left, the execution gallows can be seen. In the past, executions were frequently carried out here, but now the king rarely orders executions. Afterward, there is a beautiful wooden house for tourists.

Next, there is the Kheer Bhawani shrine. In the morning, the water in the kund (holy spring) was green when the author visited, but by 10 AM, it had turned pink. After that, while traveling along the river, one can see villages on both sides, Chinese woods, and the lush green grasslands that resemble carpets.

The first lake on this path is Manasbal Lake. The water here is very deep and clear. Nearby are the ruins of the Badshahabad, built by Emperor Jahangir. This lake is nourished by numerous springs located below it. White and red lotuses grow in the water, which add to the lake’s beauty. A beautiful waterfall cascades down from a high mountain in seven streams. Near the lake and waterfall is an ancient temple. The author had wished to spend the night on the grass here, but he was told that bears, wild animals known for their aggression, come to drink water here at night.

The next destination is the Wular Lake. This is the largest lake in the region, through which the river Vitasta flows. The shallow waters contain aquatic plants, lotus flowers, and many fish. When crossing Wular Lake by boat, there was a risk of the boat capsizing due to the strong winds.

Next, the author moves toward Nurukhal and then visits Lanka Island. About 400 years ago, the Muslim ruler Jalal-ud-Din constructed this island, which is around 200 feet long and about 150 feet wide. The dense forest, especially mulberry trees, is so thick that sunlight cannot penetrate it. Grape vines climb up the trees. The area is dotted with palaces and the ruins of columns. There is a Shiva lingam that may have been installed by a later Hindu king. In 1404, Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin of Kashmir had an artificial island built in the lake known as Zainal Lank.

On the opposite side of Lanka Island, on the western shore of the lake, stands Shakuruddin Hill. The path to the top is steep and must be climbed on foot. At the summit, there are the ruins of a famous fakir named Shakuruddin’s shrine, or mosque. From here, there is a beautiful view of Wular Lake and the villages on its banks.

On the southwest shore of the lake is Sopore, once the capital of Kashmir in ancient times. The place was originally called Surapur, after Sur, the minister of king Avantibarma, who rebuilt the city. Earlier, it was known as Kambura or Kampur. There are two beautiful houses for tourists to stay here. An ancient fort, a beautiful Shiva temple, and a mosque with golden spires are present. The climate here is very healthy, which is why the British used to visit this area. Fishing is a major activity here.

After that, by boat along the Vitasta River (Jhelum), the author reaches Baramulla. Here, the Pandits with long tilak on the forehead and wearing long firan (Kashmiri dress) begin their competition to serve as the author’s hosts. The Maharaja has also provided a bungalow for tourists. It was learned that an Englishman was conducting excavation work in search of hidden treasure. Legend has it that the Chinese emperors, after being defeated, hid valuable gems in the area near Baramulla. 

The author and his companions reach a place where they see a tall Shiva lingam and a broken temple. It is said that the Pandavas had set up this structure. Nearby, excavation is underway in search of treasure, at a small mound, which is covered in jungle and inhabited by wild animals. Old brickwork is being uncovered at the site. (The place near Baramulla is called Uskur. The Archaeological Survey of India discovered the remains of the Buddhist monastery Jayendra Vihara here in 1869-70. The terracotta Buddha statues in Gandhara style, found here, are now in the British Museum. The author likely observed the excavation or earlier explorations during his visit in 1869. The site, named Hushkapur after Kushan king Huvishka, is now known as Uskur. The Chinese traveler Xuanzang mentioned this monastery in his writings.)

The author mentions that Kashmir has many mineral resources, many of which remain undiscovered due to lack of excavation. While traveling along the Chandrabhaga River, the author himself found large quantities of stones mixed with gold and silver.

Baramulla gets its name from Barahmulla, which is believed to have been the site of the Boar Avatar. There are traces of the boar’s hoof on a mountain here. Also present are the sacred places of Ramkund, Sitakund, and Suryakund. The Vitasta River has become narrow after passing through Baramulla, and its flow is swift and dangerous. Boats can no longer navigate through it.

Kashmir's uplands, or Margs, are rich with a variety of flowers, offering a breathtaking view that mesmerizes tourists. Gulmarg is the most beautiful of these. One must travel both by water and land from Srinagar to reach it. Flowers bloom from one end of the marg to the other, and for miles, all one can see is flowers. There are no accommodations for tourists here, so travelers set up their own camps. Many Gujjars (herders) and Choppans (shepherds) live in the area, so milk, curd, ghee, and meat are always available. However, other goods must be brought from far away.

Khilanmarg is another scenic morg. Though larger in size, it is not as beautiful in terms of flowers as Gulmarg.

Lolab is a very fertile region. It is 15 miles long and at places only a few miles wide, stretching up to three miles at other places. Surrounded by high mountains, a large river (Loulab River) flows through it. The land is very fertile, with many orchards of mulberries, walnuts, and chinars. The region is made up of around thirty villages. The climate is cool and healthy, making it a favorite hunting ground. Bears come in large groups when the fruit ripens, so the area is sometimes called the "Bear Forest."

In the northeastern part of Kashmir, beyond the Lolab region, there is an extraordinary area called Lar. The Sindh River (not the Indus River) flows through this valley. The route to Dras, Ladakh, and Yarkand passes through this region. The valley is breathtaking, with towering snow-capped mountains, forests of cedar and birch, delicious fruit orchards, and grasslands that resemble carpets. Grapes, peaches, walnuts, pears, and apples grow abundantly. Small villages dot both sides of the river, surrounded by fields of crops. This place is ideal for hunting. The climate is excellent, so Kashmiri nobles and tourists spend some time here during the months of Shravana and Bhadra. At the northwest end of this valley, there are several beautiful but dilapidated temples. There is a sacred spring or well called the Nagbal, and another sacred mountain lake called Gangabal. It is located at an altitude of 16,900 feet on the Harmukh mountain. This lake is the source of the Vitasta River and is a holy site for Hindus. For Kashmiri Pandits, Gangabal is as sacred as the Ganges. Every year, thousands of pilgrims gather here during the month of Bhadra.

At the northeastern end of the Sindh Valley, near Srinagar and 5 days' journey away, is Sonamarg (Golden Meadow), which is equally or more popular with tourists than Gulmarg. The Maharaja has built several houses here for the convenience of visitors.

Thus, the author’s journey through Kashmir concludes.

66. Kashmir-Kusum 2 - Rajendra Mohan Bosu

  

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

             (Continued from the last part)

The name of this region is Kashmir, as it was once the ashram of Kashyapa Muni, and the present capital of Kashmir is Srinagar. The Vitasta (Jhelum) river flows through the city, with seven wooden bridges connecting both sides of the city. These bridges are called Kadals here. People in this area always travel by boat on the river. All the houses here are made of wood, except for the beautiful mansions of the Maharaja and a few wealthy individuals. The royal palace, Sher Gari, is located on the banks of the Vitasta River. When the author visited in 1869, there had been a flood during the monsoon, which destroyed all the wooden houses along the riverbank.

Near Srinagar is a lake called Dal Lake, which is public, as "Dal" means general. When the water level in the lake rises, there is a possibility of flooding in Srinagar, so there is a dam between the river and the lake.

When you travel from one side of Srinagar to the other by boat along the river, you can see everything. At the entrance to the city, the Maharaja constructed several bungalows, which were primarily used by English tourists as resthouses.

The royal palace appears to be quite ordinary, but the stone-built palace located on the riverbank is very picturesque. On the riverbank near the palace is the beautiful golden-topped temple of Gadadhar Dev. The city has several canals that connect to the river, and these canals also have Kadals (wooden bridges). On the opposite side of the royal palace is Basant Bagh, where there is a high seat made of black stone. Every year, on the first day of the bright fortnight of Kartika month, Gadadhar Dev is brought here for the Govardhan Puja and Annakoot festival. During this festival, the Maharaja distributes food to the entire population. Separate areas are designated for Hindu and Muslim food preparations. Nearby is the tomb of Sufi saint Shah Hamdan, which is one of the oldest and finest mosques in Kashmir. It is said that a Kali temple once stood here before the mosque was built. On the opposite side of the river is a mosque called the New Mosque or Patthar Mosque, which was established by Begum Nur Jahan. Later, on the right bank of the river, there is the tomb of King Jalaluddin, a 15th-century ruler of Kashmir who contributed greatly to the arts and literature of Kashmir. It is said that he brought skills like carpet weaving, pen-box crafting, and glass-making from Turkestan to Kashmir. The bridge near his tomb is known by his name.

The hill of Shankaracharya, known as Takht-i-Suleiman (Solomon’s Throne) by Muslims, has two paths leading to the top, but the final part of the journey is so treacherous that one has to crawl carefully. On top, there is a Shiva temple and several other temples. The stones used to build these temples are not from the hill itself, and it is hard to imagine how such large stones were brought here in ancient times. Hari Parvat is another small hill near Srinagar. In 1590, Emperor Akbar began constructing a fort here, but the fort was never completed. Inside, there are small temples and cannons, but nothing else. The views of Srinagar from the top of these hills are very beautiful.

Sher Gari, in front of the royal palace, connects Dal Lake with the Vitasta River via a canal called Chutkol. At the beginning of this canal, the Maharaja's pet ducks swim and various royal boats are anchored here. A little more than half a mile away is Drogzan, the gateway to the lake. When the water level in the river is low, the gates open, and when the water level is high, the gates automatically close, preventing floodwater from entering the lake. In this lake, lilies, lotuses, and other water plants bloom. Some people here even eat their meals on lotus leaves instead of plates. Some parts of the lake have floating farms and huts, which the Kashmiris create. The shallow areas of the lake are used to grow aquatic plants and vegetation. The land is made firm by piling up plants and soil, and agriculture is practiced on it. To prevent the land from floating away, long and thick wooden posts are placed in the ground at regular intervals.

On the western side of the lake, there is a large mosque in the village of Hazratbal, said to house a hair of the Prophet Muhammad. Four fairs are held here annually, and people from both Hindu and Muslim communities gather for them. During these fairs, boat races are organized in Dal Lake.

Dal Lake has a small island called Char Chinar Island, which has four chinar trees. There are several beautiful gardens in Srinagar, including Nasim Bagh, Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh, and Chashme Shahi. These gardens have artificial waterfalls, fountains, and terraced gardens. These features are not found in flat lands like Bengal. Near Nishat Bagh in Dal Lake, there is a small island named Sonalang, meaning Golden Island. Old ruins of brick-and-stone buildings are visible here.

On the low hills by the lake is the ruins of a palace called Parimahal, built by Emperor Jahangir. From here, the view of the lake is stunning.

The author now discusses some strange natural phenomena he could not explain, such as the changing colors of the water in the Kunda (pond) of Kheer Bhawani Devi Temple. The water changes to colors like blue and yellow, and when it turns red, it is believed to be an ominous sign, indicating the goddess is angry.

On the right side of Srinagar, in the Densu area, there is a village called Banhama (in Budgam district). There is a 20-foot-wide channel here that remains dry throughout the year. However, on the eighth day of the bright fortnight of Bhadra month, water starts to flow from various high lands and fills the channel, which is then considered sacred for a ritual bath, known as Jat Ganga. The high land is regarded as the "Jata" (hair) of Lord Mahadeva.

Machihama has a large lake called Haker Sar (also known as Hokarsar, a bird sanctuary). The lake has large floating landmasses that move with the wind. These floating lands are used by people for grazing livestock.

In Devsar (in Kulgam district), there is a spring or pond called Basuki Nag. The water remains in the pond from the arrival of spring until the crops are harvested. After that, the water dries up, flowing away to fill another pond called Golabgarh on the other side of the Pir Panjal mountains. The two ponds are separated by a distance of ten crores, and it is unclear how they are connected.

The author then discusses places in the eastern part of Kashmir: Pandriton (Pandrethan Temple), which was once the capital of Kashmir. Emperor Ashoka built a Buddhist temple here that housed the tooth relic of Lord Buddha. Today, only the ruins of the temple remain.

Pampore is the birthplace of saffron. It was once called Padmapur, founded by a king named Padma. The blooming saffron flowers in Kartik month create a magnificent sight.

A mile and a half away from Pampore, there are ponds with water mixed with iron and sulfur at Fuknag and Kalishnag, which are said to be beneficial for health.

Avantipur was once the capital of Kashmir, founded by King Avantivarma. Now, only the ruins of some temples remain.

Nearby, on a hill, is an ancient temple called Samathang. It is believed that during the great flood of Kashmir, Sage Kashyapa meditated here for thousands of years.

Bijbehara may be a corruption of the name Vidyavihar. Emperor Ashoka built a Buddhist temple here, which was later destroyed by Sultan Sikandar, who replaced it with a mosque. Raja Gulab Singh later demolished the mosque and rebuilt the temple (Vijayeshwar Temple).

Anantnag, known as Islamabad during Muslim rule and still by that name in the English period, was earlier known as Anantnag during Hindu rule. The Anantnag pond is large and teeming with fish.

Five miles from Anantnag, in the area of Matan (also known as Martand), there is a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site with the ruins of a sun temple.

Bhumju Cave, near Matan, is another sacred Hindu site, which has several small caves and two long caves. One of the large caves has a temple.

Achabal is a natural spring located in a garden built by Emperor Jahangir for his beloved wife Nur Jahan. The word "Bal" means spring. Here, there are fountains, waterfalls, ponds, and the ruins of an ancient palace.

Kukurnag (also called Kokarnag) is a gathering of several small springs.

Bairanag (Berinag) is a natural spring and pond, with ruins of ancient walls, paths, and palaces built by Emperor Jahangir. Some of Shah Jahan's works can also be found here.

Koshanag (Kausar Nag) is a beautiful mountain lake with several waterfalls, the most notable being the Aharbal waterfall.

The greatest Hindu pilgrimage in Kashmir is Amarnath. Every year, on the full moon day of Bhadra month, thousands of pilgrims gather to visit Amarnath. Some fearless ascetics stay there for two to three months. Before the full moon, the king of Kashmir hoists flags in the Rambag garden near Srinagar to call together the pilgrims. The journey is so dangerous that many pilgrims die every year from the harsh terrain and snowstorms. On the way, there is a spring called Panchatarni with five branches, where pilgrims bathe before proceeding to the cave to worship Lord Shiva. It is said that the ice Shiva Lingam in the cave changes form every month, shrinking after the full moon and completely disappearing by the new moon, only to grow back with the next full moon.

The exact location of the fall of Sati's throat is not known, but the whole of Kashmir is considered to be the Sarada Peeth. A statue of Goddess Sarada can be found in Sopore. Kashmiri script is also called the Sarada script. (The present location called Sopur, in Baramulla district, has a Sarada Temple. Also, near the Neelum River in Azad Kashmir, there are ruins of the ancient Sarada Peeth temple. In both of these places, Sarada refers to the goddess Saraswati. This Sarada temple should be called Sarada Peeth rather than Shakti Peeth. Similarly, there are Sarada Peeths established by Shankaracharya, such as the Dwarka Sarada Peeth and the Sringeri Sarada Peeth).

                           (To be continued)

65. Kashmir-Kusum 1 Rajendra Mohan Bosu

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

The book Kashmir Kusum is written by Rajendramohan Bosu. It was published in 1875 (Jaistha, 1282 Bengali Year). (It seems there are some printing errors regarding the year of publication because the travel period cannot be after the publication date). There is little information available about Rajendramohan Bosu. However, in the dedication, he mentions that he presented the book to Nilambar Mukhopadhyay, the then Chief Justice and Judicial Commissioner of Kashmir, and stated that he was his beloved. From the text, it is known that Rajendramohan Bosu lived in Kashmir for an extended period starting from 1879 due to his job. Some parts of Kashmir Kusum were earlier published in a journal under the title Description of Kashmir. The full title of the book is Kashmir Kusum, or Description of Kashmir. It can be categorized more as a Kashmir Tourist Guide rather than a travelogue. However, since the author mentions in the preface that he has personally visited or resided at these locations in Kashmir, it can be considered as a travelogue. He also mentions using information from Dr. Ince's Kashmir Handbook and the Persian work Gulzar-e-Kashmir by Kashmir's Dewan Kriparam.

The main feature of the book is that the description of Kashmir provided here pertains to undivided India, without mentioning the issue of Pakistan-occupied Kashmir or Azad Kashmir, as Pakistan had not yet come into existence at the time, which was more than 70 years away. Therefore, Kashmir is described as undivided. At that time, Kashmir was under the rule of the independent King of Kashmir. During this period, Ranbir Singh (reigned 1856–1885) was the king of Kashmir, and his father was Maharaja Gulab Singh (reigned 1846–1856), whose name is mentioned several times in the book.

The book primarily discusses the travel routes and destinations in present-day Kashmir. The western border of Kashmir during that time was Hazara and Rawalpindi, with a length of 350 miles from east to west. To the north, it extended to Baltistan or Skardu, all the way up to the Karakoram range.

According to the author, there are five main routes to travel to Kashmir:

1. Jammu and Banhal Route: This is the modern route used by the Kashmir King (currently the popular Jammu-Banihal Pass route).
2. Bhimber and Pir Panjal Route (Old Badshahi Route): Bhimber is now in Pakistan-occupied Azad Kashmir.
3. Bhimber and Poonch Route.
4. Muri Route.
5. Abbottabad Route: This was used by the former Afghan rulers.

Among these routes, only the first one, i.e., the Jammu-Banhal route, required the permission of the king to enter Kashmir. Travelers were required to carry a permit from either the King of Kashmir or the British Government for ease of access to transport, food, etc. However, when leaving Kashmir, no one could exit without a signed order from the king. All the routes had rest houses (called adda) where travelers could easily get rooms, horses, mules, palanquins, and food. The king’s officials took care of the travelers to ensure they faced no discomfort.

The Jammu and Banhal Route: The distance from Lahore to Srinagar is 270 miles via this route. It takes 11 days from Jammu to Srinagar. The route goes through Danchal, Kirimchi, Mir, Landar, Bilawat, Ramban, Ramsu, Banhal, Bairnagar, and Anantnag to reach Srinagar. To reach Ramban, one must cross the Chandrabhaga River, which is very difficult and dangerous. The road is treacherous and often not properly paved. From Anantnag, travelers take boats to reach Srinagar, as it takes two more days to reach Srinagar by land from there. The king of Kashmir used this route for travel.

The Bhimber and Pir Panjal Route: The distance from Lahore to Srinagar is 246 miles via this route. It takes 12 days from Bhimber to Srinagar. The route goes through Syedabad, Nowshera, Chingas, Rajouri, Thannamandi, Baramgola, Poshiyana, Aliyabad Sarai, Hirpur, Shopiyan, Ramu, and then to Srinagar. This route crosses the Chitrpani River twenty-five times. Many beautiful waterfalls are located along this route. (Most of these areas are now part of Azad Kashmir.)

The Bhimber and Poonch Route: From Bhimber to Srinagar is a 14-day journey. The route passes through Thannamandi, Surn, Poonch, Kehuta, Aliyabad, Hyderabad, Uri, Nowshera, and Baramulla to reach Srinagar (most of these areas are now part of Azad Kashmir). From Baramulla, everyone travels by boat to Srinagar, or it takes two days to go by land.

The Muri Route: This route is very difficult to travel from Lahore, but it is easier from Rawalpindi. The route goes through Muri, Deol, Kohala, Danna, Mair, Chikkar, Hatti, Chokoti, Uri, Nowshera, and Baramulla to Srinagar, a distance of 137 miles (again, most of these areas are now in Azad Kashmir).

The Abbottabad Route: This route is 155 miles. It goes through Abbottabad, Manshera, Ghrie, Muzaffarabad, Hatiyan, Konda, Kathai, Shahadra, Gingal, Baramulla to Srinagar (most of these areas are now in Azad Kashmir).

The author advises that for residents of Kolkata, the Banhal, Pir Panjal, or Poonch routes should be preferred. The other two routes are very difficult, so the Pir Panjal route is the better option. Although the Banhal route requires the king’s special permission, there are no restrictions for Bengalis.

{Currently, all routes except the Banihal route are closed for India, as they pass through areas in Pakistan-occupied Kashmir or Azad Kashmir. There are also two other routes from Shimla through mountain ranges and hilltops, but they require special permission from the Punjab government. (Currently, one can enter Kashmir from Shimla via Ladakh, but that requires crossing several high mountain passes).}

In every resting place along the route, one can find accommodation, bedding, and food such as rice, flour, milk, ghee, and meat. However, to fully enjoy traveling in the Kashmir Valley, it is necessary to bring tents, camp beds, spices, dal, potatoes, warm clothing, and waterproof gear. Although carrying fewer items might be more convenient for travel, it is important to carry currency, as the hill people do not accept paper money. The Maharaja has built several bungalows for tourists in Srinagar, but they are always full due to the English. Houses are available for rent in the city, but they are very filthy, so staying in a houseboat is better. There is also land available for setting up tents.

The prices for animals and bearers from one resting place to the next are as follows: Horse – 8 annas, Mule – 8 annas, Palanquin – 4 annas, Palanquin bearer – 9 annas, Mule bearer – 4 annas, Piththu – 12 annas (1 anna = 6.25 paisa). Horses and bearers do not travel more than one adda. After receiving their wage, they return to their original place. Therefore, a new horse or bearer must be hired at each adda.

The author cautions that those who have not traveled in mountainous regions will not understand the difficulty of these routes. If Kashmir is heaven, the paths to it are as difficult as the steps of heaven. Some paths are so steep that one has to use ropes to climb up or descend. During these climbs, both the rider and the spectator’s hearts race. In some places, the actual path is only a couple of feet wide, and it is so high that looking down makes one dizzy. In winter, these paths become completely covered in snow and are impassable. However, the beauty of these treacherous paths is immense. The difficult terrain is filled with flowers and fruits, and there is no fear of robbery or theft, as Maharaja Gulab Singh ruled with an iron fist. However, it is not completely safe to travel by rope or horse due to the treacherous conditions. Horses and camels can only travel the Banhal route; in the other routes, elephants were used by Mughal emperors and were described by Bernier, but these journeys were also fraught with danger. Some people even use the Piththu or carry goods on the back, sitting on a small seat tied to the bearer’s back.

The locals of Kashmir are accustomed to these difficult routes and travel easily. Even on the first route, the Maharaja's messenger can travel from Jammu to Srinagar on foot in 18 hours, at lightning speed.

The author warns tourists to remember that they are entering the kingdom of an independent king. They should show proper respect when meeting the Maharaja, his family, and high-ranking officials, and follow all local rules and regulations. Tourists should not secretly take any goods across the border without the Maharaja’s permission and should not take any Kashmiris out of Kashmir without the Maharaja’s consent.

                           (To be continued)