The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
Sarat Chandra Das (1849-1917) wrote about his travels, particularly in Tibet, in two books: Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet and Autobiography: Narrative of the Incidents of My Early Life. These two books form the subject matter of this post. Although his travels should be called expeditions rather than mere travel. Both books are written in English. However, as they are travel accounts of a Bengali, they are included in this blog. Journey to Central Tibet was published by John Murray, London, in 1902. Autobiography: Narratives of the Incidents of My Early Life was published in Kolkata in March 1969, though it was first serialized in the Bengali periodical Prabasi.
Sarat Chandra Das was born in 1849 in Chittagong. He began studying Civil Engineering at Presidency College but, due to a malaria illness, he suspended his studies in 1874 and took up a job as the headmaster of the Bhutia Boarding School in Darjeeling to improve his health. In the preface of Journey to Lhasa, American diplomat W.W. Rockhill (the first American to learn Tibetan) mentions that Sarat Chandra became acquainted with Alfred Croft, the Director of Public Instruction of Bengal, while at college. With Croft's help, the Indian government approved his journey to Tibet. However, this is not mentioned in Sarat Chandra’s Autobiography.
In his Autobiography, Sharatchandra describes his first journey to Darjeeling in 1876, his travels to Sikkim in 1876 and 1877, and his visit to Tashihunpo in Tibet in 1877. Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet details his travels in 1881-1882 to Lhasa and Central Tibet.
When Sharatchandra joined the Bhutia School in Darjeeling, he traveled from Sahabganj to Karagola Ghat by ferry steamer and then continued by ox-cart through Purnia to Siliguri. From Siliguri to Kalabari, he walked along a horse trail, and from Kurseong to Darjeeling, he traveled on horseback, marking his first experience riding.
Upon reaching Darjeeling, Sarat Chandra learned from the Deputy Commissioner of Darjeeling, John Edgar, that the school had been established to teach English to the sons of Sikkim's king and senior officials. A young Lama named Ugyen Gyatso was brought from the Pemayangtse Monastery to assist in this endeavor. Some local Bhutia children were also enrolled in the school. To facilitate his work, Sarat Chandra learned Bhutia and began studying Tibetan, as the Bhutias of Darjeeling spoke Tibetan, and the Sikkimese language was a dialect of Tibetan. His Lama companion also began learning both Tibetan and English. As he learned Tibetan, Sarat Chandra was deeply impressed by the richness and depth of Tibetan literature.
In 1876, Sarat Chandra took the schoolboys on a trip to several Buddhist monasteries, including Pemayangtse in Sikkim. There, he learned from the monks that Indian scholars had once been highly respected in Tibet. Mr. Edgar encouraged him to read more books about Tibet, revealing that the school’s purpose was not only to teach Bhutia boys but also to send some to the Tibetan Himalayan region. At that time, the entry of Europeans into Tibet was prohibited. The British government had previously sent two Indians to Tibet for various surveys and information collection: they were Nain Singh and Kishen Singh, who went to Lhasa in 1866 and 1880, respectively. The British also sent Sarat Chandra Das to Tibet with funds and necessary assistance for the expedition. Sarat Chandra Das's interest in learning about Tibet's religion and culture was one of the main reasons for his participation in this mission.
In February 1877, Sarat Chandra, accompanied by his brother Nabin Chandra Das, Lama Ugyen, and the Sikkimese military commander's children, again traveled to Sikkim. They visited places such as Yangang, Tashiding, Songang Choling, and Pemayangtse. In his Autobiography, Sarat Chandra quotes parts of his brother Nabin Chandra’s writings about this journey. They began their journey on January 27 from Darjeeling, walking across moss-covered stones and pebbles since there were no proper roads. Their only source of drinking water was a waterfall, and they attempted to shelter from the cold by constructing a covering using bamboo for the night. They crossed the fast-flowing Rangit River over a small bamboo bridge and finally reached Namchi, where large stone Buddhist monasteries were located. Each stone was inscribed with names of gods and mantras in Tibetan. Inside the monasteries, the walls were adorned with images of the Buddha in various postures. Outside, stupas with fluttering Buddhist flags could be seen, which the locals believed would drive away evil spirits. They stayed at the monastery for the night and continued their journey the following day by horseback.
In June 1877, Sarat Chandra and Lama Ugyen Gyatso left Dubdi in Sikkim for Zongri. By late afternoon, they had reached Zongri, where they stayed in a house made of large stones with a wooden roof. The people there did not know how to use saws or nails. The breathtaking natural beauty of the area, with views of Khabur, Kang-la, and Kanchenjunga, was indescribable. Sharatchandra attempted to navigate using a sextant, but the thick fog made it impossible.
The next day, they crossed the Rathong River using a wooden bridge and traveled through vast rhododendron thickets. They soon arrived at the junction of Yumphang and Kang-la, where roads connected to Singalila, Falut, Sandakphu, and Tonglu. They continued along the Churung River and, by evening, found shelter in a cave near Tey Geyak-la Mountain. There, they met three Tibetans who informed them that the Nepali outpost guards would not stop their journey.
The following days involved steep climbs, river crossings, and treacherous mountain paths. Sarat Chandra saw an avalanche from a distance and was warned by his guide Furchung about the dangers of walking on the ice, as even a small mistake could lead to a deadly fall into a crevasse. They also passed areas where rivers suddenly swelled, washing away bridges and sweeping tourists away. After being extremely cautious, they reached a plateau known as Furpa Karpu, where they encountered human settlements. They continued their journey, passing through large stone-built shelters for travelers and locals. They eventually reached Tungra Kongma, where rhododendron and juniper trees reappeared.
They continued their journey, heading northeast. After crossing the Yalong River, they ascended the steep path to Dechan Rolpa Monastery and then to So Chunga La Mountain. The steep path reached an altitude of about 2,500 feet. They crossed four mountain ridges, including Mrigen-la, Pango-la, Seon-la, and Tama-la, which ranged from 14,800 to 15,000 feet. In the evening, they reached the village of Kamba-chan-gyun, where they visited the monastery the next day. The lamas here wore long earrings and kept their hair long. Locals mistook them for Nepali lamas, calling them Palbu Lamas. That night, the villagers treated them to a meal of rice, potatoes, mutton, and beer.
The following day, they followed the Kangchen River, crossing paths with villagers who were worshipping Kangchen Mountain by firing guns, shooting arrows, and performing athletic feats. The head lama secretly informed them that officials were approaching the border, and the villagers had been instructed not to allow any sheep or goat traders into Tibet, as there was an outbreak of livestock diseases. The Chathang-la Pass was generally closed to tourists, while the Kangla Chenam Pass remained open. At this point, Sarat Chandra began to feel uncertain about reaching Tibet.
(To be continued)
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