75. Englande bongomohila - krishnabhamini Das

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

"Englande Bongomohila", i.e. "A bengali woman in England" is a book written by Krishnabhamini Das, which was published in 1885. The author’s name is kept secret in the book. The publisher Satyaprakash Sarbadhikari refers to the author as the "creator of the book" in the preface. Undoubtedly, the author's name has been kept hidden at her own request. However, was the author concerned about the social acceptance or possible criticism of a Bengali woman traveling to England?

Krishnabhamini Das (1862-1919) was a Bengali writer and feminist. Born in Murshidabad, she moved to Kolkata after her marriage. Her husband Debendranath Das went to England for further education. Krishnabhamini Das spent time in England from 1882 to 1889 and returned to India. She wrote extensively about women's education and women's rights in magazines like Bharati, Prabashi, and Sadhana. In this book as well, she repeatedly makes feminist remarks. At the beginning of the book, the author states that she did not write this book to gain recognition or to display her knowledge. The book is a simple and direct reflection of her thoughts and observations based on the new things she encountered in a foreign land. The book provides information that Indian youths who are interested in coming to England might find useful. She addresses the female readers, stating that this book is meant to satisfy their curiosity about England. The author mentions that her husband read the book and suggested revisions and changes, helping her with the education and political aspects of the content.

In the book, the author compares the condition of Bengali women with that of women in England. She extensively discusses various topics like English social customs, religion, festivals, education, politics, people's behavior, and economic classes. However, since these discussions are not related to travel, many parts of these topics have been omitted from this writing.

On September 26, 1882, she started her journey from Howrah station towards Bombay, traveling in a railway carriage (the "coller car"). At this time, she was not hidden behind a veil, as was customary at the time. Her heart was full of pain from the separation from her homeland and loved ones. She was familiar with places like Hooghly and Burdwan because she had passed through them before, veiled, when visiting her paternal home. Now, with her head uncovered and wearing a hat, no one would recognize her. Perhaps the foreigners might think she was a "mem" (a European woman).

Seeing Patna station, she reflected on the lost glory of the ancient city of Pataliputra. At Mugalsarai station, she felt a desire to visit Kashi. Passing Allahabad, she thought of the place as sacred for both Hindus and Muslims—Hindus see it as Prayag, while Muslims regard it as the City of Allah. In Allahabad, she changed cars and entered the women’s carriage. There were no other women passengers in the compartment, so she spent the night there alone. The next morning, she reached Jabalpur. They had to change trains again here. The train from Kolkata to Allahabad was operated by one railway company, while the one from Allahabad to Jabalpur was operated by another. There are many trains that go directly from Kolkata to Bombay without needing to change cars, but they did not find such a train. They stayed a few days in Jabalpur, intending to visit places like the Narmada River’s waterfall and the Marble Rocks but had to leave on September 29, as the ship to England was scheduled to depart from Bombay.

From there, they saw mountains and forests through the train windows, sometimes even passing through tunnels. The next morning, they arrived at Bombay station. Her husband left her alone to arrange for a hotel, and she had no difficulty, as no one dared to approach her, a woman dressed in foreign clothes. They went to a large hotel. The streets of Bombay were much cleaner than those of Kolkata. Along the streets, there were paved sidewalks, which were found only in Chowringhee, Kolkata. The buildings here were made of wood and stone, in addition to bricks. The houses were six or seven stories tall, but the floors were shorter. The roofs were covered with slate, and they could not be accessed. Most of the shops along the main streets were owned by Parsis.

On the scheduled day, they boarded a small boat and then transferred to a large ship. Onboard, she observed Parsis, Muslims, and Christians, but did not see any Hindus. As the boat moved farther from Bombay, the city's lights gradually disappeared, and only the light from the lighthouse was visible. She did not experience seasickness during the voyage.

On the ship, there was a captain’s cabin and a kitchen on the deck. Below were small cabins, each with two, four, or more beds stacked on top of each other. Some cabins had small windows facing the sea, known as portholes, and some even had facilities for bathing. One side of the ship was for the first-class passengers, while the other side housed the second-class passengers and sailors. Between them was the engine room. As the ship sailed, she observed the various forms of the sea and felt delighted when she recognized familiar constellations in the night sky.

Eventually, they reached Aden, where they saw boys swimming and asking for money and local people selling goods. She also saw flying fish in the Red Sea. The ship stopped at Suez, and they were supposed to travel by rail to Alexandria and then board another ship to Brindisi. However, due to the ongoing war in Egypt, no one was allowed to disembark. They had to travel through the Suez Canal by water instead.

They stayed in Suez that night. In the morning, they observed numerous ships around them, each flying different flags and signs. The canal was narrow, and only one ship could pass at a time. On either side of the canal, there was desert, with a few houses scattered in the distance. Small boats occasionally came by, selling eggs, fish, and fruits. It was here that the author first tasted delicious pomegranates, grapes, and apples. After passing through Imma and Port Said, they continued their journey through the Suez Canal for 45 miles. They boarded another ship at Port Said and headed for Italy, passing through the Mediterranean Sea.

As they neared Greece, small mountains became visible. The author thought about the hardships people faced when traveling to England in the past, when it took one and a half years, nine months, six months, or even three months.

Finally, they arrived at Brindisi, a city in the southeastern corner of Italy, where they were held in quarantine for three days to prevent the spread of any diseases, particularly the plague from Egypt. After the quarantine, the ship sailed on to Venice, passing through the Adriatic Sea.

In Venice, the author saw the famous canals instead of streets. Boats were used for transportation, and there were no horse-drawn carriages. The poor women in Venice wore handkerchiefs on their heads, similar to how some women in North East India dress. She noted how both Indian and Romans were once pagan civilizations, but Italy had now recovered its glory through figures like Mazzini and Garibaldi, whereas India "still sleeps."

They reached Milan, changed trains, and continued toward Switzerland. Soon, they were in the Alps, crossing a mountain range and a tunnel that took about 25 minutes to pass through. They reached Basel, Switzerland, and from there, they traveled to France, where they observed the flatlands.

Eventually, they reached Calais, a French port city, and boarded a ship to England, crossing the English Channel and arriving at Dover. From there, they took a train to London and arrived on October 20, 1882. In London, the author marveled at the city’s electric lights that made the night appear as bright as day.

London was vast, about four times the size of Kolkata, with a population of around 4 million. The city was continuously expanding, and many of the fields around the city had been replaced by houses. London was known as a city of advertisements, shops, wealth, and theaters. Without money, there was no happiness in London.

London was divided into eight parts. The north and northwest areas were home to the middle class, where one could find cheaper rent. The west and southwest were mainly occupied by the wealthy. The east was where the poor lived, with unhealthy and unsanitary conditions.

London had many parks, and the largest was Regent's Park, which became crowded in the summer. The park had a lake for boating, lawn tennis and cricket grounds, and even a small zoo.

During the winter months of November, December, and January, London was covered in fog, making it difficult to walk or breathe, and the author sometimes felt like she was living in hell.

There were various modes of transportation in the city, including carriages, buses, and trams. The streets were filled with the noise of the vehicles, and Palkees (palanquins) and bullock carts were no longer seen.

The houses in London had underground rooms where kitchens and storage were kept, and the underground railway even ran beneath the River Thames. There were also trams and buses that did not run on rails.

In London, there were about 8-10 royal palaces, including Buckingham Palace, where Queen Victoria lived, and a grand Parliament House nearby. The famous Big Ben clock tower was situated on the top of the Parliament building, and its chimes were heard throughout the city.

Crystal Palace was located about three miles south of London, a grand structure built for the 1851 Great Exhibition. The building was surrounded by large gardens and fountains, and its glass construction was stunning at night.

The British Museum displayed ancient items from all over the world, and the Westminster Abbey was the burial site for England’s most notable figures.

There were 30 theaters in London, each holding thousands of people, and plenty of concert halls and opera houses as well. One popular tourist attraction was the Madame Tussaud’s wax museum.

In London, there are large palace-like hotels and restaurants to dine at. The restaurants offer cooked food at relatively high prices. If one is not comfortable at home or while on the road, there is the option to eat there. Additionally, there are pubs or public houses, often referred to as gin palaces.

Apart from discussions on social, political, economic, and educational matters of London, this marks the end of Krishnabhamini Das's account of her travels in London (England).

74. Mishar Jatri Bangali - Shyamlal Mitra

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

The author of "Mishar Jatri Bangali" (The Bengali Traveler to Egypt), Shyamlal Mitra, is not widely known. The book was published in the month of Ashwin in 1291 Bengali calendar, which corresponds to 1884 AD. Before this, the work had been published in the Sanjeebani newspaper. The book contains Shyamlal Mitra's experiences as a part of the Bengali Indian army in the Egyptian campaign of 1882. Prior to this, no Bengali had ventured so far to participate in a war. A few Bengalis had previously visited Kabul, but they did not document their travels. Shyamlal Mitra took part in the Second Anglo-Afghan War (1878-1880). After returning, he took a two-year rest, and in July 1882, after bidding farewell to friends and relatives, he set off for the Egyptian war. In the first week of August, he arrived in Bombay (now Mumbai).

Bombay was a magnificent city, surrounded by the sea with small green hills. The city's tall palaces and monuments reflected its prosperity. Every street had tramways, gas lamps, and piped water. There were beautiful gardens, schools, charitable hospitals, and markets. The city’s grandeur was further enhanced by the sight of troops assembling, massive war preparations, and the sight of warships flying flags in the harbors. At the end of August, they embarked for Egypt from the "Bombay Princess Dock," carrying enough provisions for a three-month journey. The author mentions that a Bengali clerk was also aboard the ship. Along with numerous soldiers, workers, and doctors, the ship carried 65 horses and 300 mules. The atmosphere at the time of departure was deeply emotional.

The ship had two sections: the officers and doctors were in the saloon, while the clerks and gomastas (accountants) were in second-class cabins, and others were accommodated in the deck area. The first and second-class passengers were served food for a fee of four and two rupees daily, respectively. Once the ship entered the deep sea, almost everyone fell ill with dizziness and nausea, which lasted for about seven days. There was only one place for cooking for all the Indian passengers, and it was allotted a mere four-hour time frame. Hindus and Muslims cooked in succession on the same stove, and then they ate in their respective spaces. One day, the ship was caught in a storm but was spared by God's grace. The next day, they reached Aden, which was eight days after leaving Bombay.

Before arriving at Aden port, a flock of flying fish was spotted. Aden is considered the gateway to India because anyone traveling from India to Europe had to pass through it. The English soldiers had always kept the place well-guarded. The indigenous people there were dark-skinned, with long curly hair, red eyes, spoke Arabic, were uneducated, and were under the care of the English. Some local youths swam around the ship, and when sailors threw money into the water, they retrieved it astonishingly fast. The journey resumed in the afternoon. The ship, after being in the Arabian Sea, now began moving toward the Red Sea.

Six days from Aden, they reached Suez and were ordered to proceed to the battlefield. They disembarked in small boats and began their seven-day march to the battlefield, either on foot or horseback. The railway line from Ismailia to Kassassin was 129 miles long. On one side of the rail was a canal supplying drinking water, while on the other, an expansive desert stretched out. This desert had been the site of the earlier battles in the Egyptian war.

[Egypt, as the gateway to the East, was especially attractive to Europeans. During the reign of Muhammad Ali Pasha (1805–1848), Egypt became a semi-autonomous state under the Ottoman Empire. From 1852, Britain increased its presence in northern Egypt to maintain its trade routes to India and build the first British railway abroad. Meanwhile, France invested in the construction of the Suez Canal to link the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. Due to Ismail Pasha’s (1863–1879) policies, Egypt went into severe financial crisis by 1875, leading him to sell shares of the Suez Canal Company to Britain. The discontent with European and Ottoman rule sparked nationalist revolts in Egypt in 1879. The British army occupied Egypt in 1882 to protect its financial interests, leading to a war that Britain won. The nationalist leader Ahmad Urabi (whom the author refers to as Arabi Pasha) and the rebels were captured and exiled to Sri Lanka. The British then set up a nominal government with Tawfiq Pasha (1879–1892) as the ruler, while Egypt remained nominally under the Ottoman Empire but was effectively controlled by the British.]

The author then recounts scenes from the war, focusing on the chaos and atrocities. In some places, victorious soldiers were committing atrocities on helpless Egyptian women, looting, and in others, starving Egyptians were stealing food from the weak.

At the end of the war, the author was returning to Cairo, riding alone on horseback, separated from his comrades. For three days, he had no food, and his horse grew weak from hunger. There were no villages in sight. Just as he was about to lose consciousness, the horse entered a lush green grove. Slowly, he arrived at a village that had been devastated by the war, almost deserted. There, the author rescued an Egyptian woman from a cruel white soldier. Gratefully, she took him to her house, where they gave him bread, dates, and water. They also helped him find his way.

The author then reached the nearest railway station in Jaghazig, which was a beautiful station with an attached fine hotel. There, he met an English officer and learned the whereabouts of his companions. The next day, a trip to Cairo was arranged. The following morning, with a pass for sightseeing, a horse, and two companions, the author set off to explore Jaghazig. The city, although beautiful, was disheartened by the aftermath of the war. Most homes were empty, and the shops were closed. Only a few women were selling fruit in baskets.

In the afternoon, the train to Cairo departed, taking nine hours to reach the city. During the journey, the author saw new places, lovely gardens, beautiful homes, and the splendor of the Nile. The Nile had transformed this desert land into a fertile empire. Upon arrival in Cairo, the author managed to find shelter in a local residence and was reunited with his fellow soldiers and shipmates. After more than a month in Cairo, he sought permission from the higher authorities to visit the city, and fortunately, his request was granted.

One evening, the author was invited to dinner at the house of an Egyptian colleague. The house was a beautiful two-story building made of bricks, with a lovely garden full of flowers. The interior was clean and elegantly decorated. The hostess warmly greeted the guests and served them food. Later, in another room, they found a table covered with artistic lids and decorated with gold and silver bowls filled with various fruits. During their conversation, the author learned that this Egyptian gentleman was originally from Bengal. He had lost his parents at a young age and traveled the country for ten years before deciding to go abroad. He first traveled to Mecca and then to Egypt, where he married an Egyptian woman and settled down.

The next day, the author visited the pyramids on the banks of the Nile with the Egyptian, who was originally from Bengal. Initially disappointed by the sight of the pyramids, thinking they were just heaps of dry stones, the author was awe-struck after entering the towering pyramids. He had never seen anything like it before, and he described the pyramids as being built with such advanced technology that it seemed as though they were created by the gods. Despite all the progress the English had made in science, the pyramids were infinitely more advanced and distinct than anything being built at the time. The precise way each stone was placed and the impossibility of separating them left the author in awe.

In Cairo, the author saw magnificent multi-story buildings lining wide avenues, but there was a sense of sadness everywhere. Along the road, some stone pillars in the shape of animal heads had water flowing when turned one way and stopped when turned the other. In one place, he saw a tavern in front of a temple, and in another, a royal marketplace, a vast palace filled with countless goods for sale. The author had never seen such a marketplace in any Indian city.

Later, the author visited the royal palace. In the garden in front of the palace, a group of beautifully dressed Egyptian warriors played victory music. Armed Egyptian soldiers and English guards stood watch at the palace doors. The author observed that while the general Egyptian populace was grieving due to the war, the royal palace was filled with amusement, with the English celebrating with the Egyptian king, who had invited the victorious English general. The author was astonished by the English charm and irritated by the Egyptian king's behavior, so he left the place. He then went to visit wounded soldiers, whose suffering was beyond words. However, he saw several Turkish women volunteering to care for the sick.

Finally, starting from October 1, 1882, the process of sending the Indian army back to India began. The Indian troops, including infantry, cavalry, camels, mules, and horse-drawn carts, lined up and marched, accompanied by music, for seven days through the desert, from Cairo to Suez. At night, the English officers slept in tents and had good food, but there was no shelter or proper food for the Indian soldiers. Even finding drinking water in the desert was difficult. Moreover, the English officers subjected the Indian soldiers to brutal mistreatment, some of which the author described in his book. After a month at Suez, the author was finally able to find a ship to board.

Due to the oppressive attitude of the English captain of the army, the author could not find a proper place to stay on the ship. He struggled greatly to pass the days. One day, the ship was caught in a fierce storm with lightning in the Red Sea and barely survived. But two days later, the ship encountered an even bigger storm. Waves were crashing onto the ship's second deck. Suddenly, a wave threw the author down to the lower deck. He fell onto a plank on the lower floor, and as his foot got caught between the legs of a mule, he did not fall into the sea. Losing consciousness, he lay there while the sea water flowed over him. After a while, when he regained consciousness, he painfully got up and with the help of some people, made his way to his sleeping quarters, where he saw that almost all of his belongings had been washed away. Even his clothes and the gifts he had bought for his loved ones were gone. In immense physical and mental pain, and having witnessed various kinds of torture by the English master, he finally returned to Bombay.

From Bombay, he traveled to Allahabad and worked there for some time. After three weeks, he was able to get a pass for Rawalpindi. The author then visited Kolkata, which he considered his birthplace, and after spending fifteen days there, he continued on to Punjab by train. On the way, he met with friends in places like Kashi, Prayag, Kanpur, Aligarh, Amritsar, and Lahore, before reaching Rawalpindi in early 1883 to reunite with his loved ones. Due to the accident on his return journey, he became disabled and was dismissed from his position. The British government treated him harshly.

In conclusion, the author called on Indians to awaken from their subjugated mindset, urging them to improve the nation's progress through independent agriculture and commerce, and to foster the spirit of personal freedom.

73. Bharat Bhraman 2 - Baradakanta Sengupta

 

     The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

               

              (Continued from the last part)

Afterwards, Bardakanta Sengupta, along with his companion Mr. S--, departed from Agra towards Bharatpur on the Rajputana and Malwa State Railway. Upon reaching Bharatpur, the author rented a room and a cot at a large sarai (inn). An employee of the Maharaja of Bharatpur came to collect their personal details, including names, addresses, whether they carried any weapons, or if they had anything to sell. Afterward, they had dinner with 5-paisa luchis. As they traveled further west, the price of luchis continued to decrease. In the morning, they took a one-horse carriage to see the Bharatpur Fort. Numerous peacocks and peahens were perched on the large trees along the roadside. The fort was surrounded by a ditch or moat, followed by a mud wall, then a moat, and finally a thick stone wall. Countless turtles could be seen in the moat. Crossing the bridge over the moat led them to the massive fort gate. The British had repeatedly failed to capture the fort, and it was known to be impregnable. However, seeing the dilapidated state of the fort inside, the author was disheartened. They also saw the Maharaja’s palace, which was in relatively better condition.

Next, they traveled by train to Jaipur, where they saw the mountainous terrain of Rajputana. Jaipur was a walled city with a fort. The gatekeepers checked them before letting them in. On both sides of the cobbled streets, beautiful houses were uniformly constructed and painted. A Bengali gentleman greeted them warmly. The author visited Jaipur’s English College, Sanskrit College, Art School, and monuments. The next day, they saw the Raj Bhavan (Palace) with its durbar hall, Hawa Mahal, Yagashala, and Chandramahal. Like in Kashi, there was an astrology temple here. Maharaja Sawai Man Singh had spent a large sum to bring Italian artisans to construct an extraordinary theater. The following day, they visited Jaipur’s market, the Residency, and the Ram Nivas Garden, which was established by Maharaja Ramsingh Bahadur. The Ram Nivas Garden was even more beautiful than Eden Gardens in Kolkata. Near the garden, there was a statue of the former Governor General Lord Mayor. On one side of it was a section with a collection of various animals. They also visited the museum, which, although not as large as Kolkata’s, housed many items. Later, they visited the temples of Madan Mohanji, Govindji, Gopinathji, Ramchandraji, and Gokulnathji. Among the independent kingdoms in India, there was hardly any city as beautiful as Jaipur. Maharaja Ramsingh had enriched Jaipur by introducing water taps and gas lights.

The author and his companion then traveled by train to Ajmer. On the way, they noticed that Ajmer was even more mountainous. They stayed at the house of a native Bengali gentleman. Ajmer was a fortified city, and the moat on the eastern side still remained. There were five gates: Delhi, Agra, Madar, Ushri, and Tripoli. At the northern edge of the city, there was a lake called Ana Sagar, which was excavated by Maharaja Ana. On its banks, the Diwan-i-Khas (Council Hall) of Emperor Shah Jahan lay in ruins. At the southwest edge of Ajmer stood Taragarh, a fort atop a high mountain, also known as Ajay Fort, built by the Chauhan ruler Ajay Pal. This area, being considered healthy, had been turned into a resting place for sick European soldiers. On the upper part of Taragarh, there was a tomb built by Akbar's nobleman, Jabbar Khan, for Miran Hussain. The view from the top was very picturesque.

From Ajmer, they visited the remarkable architectural site of Adhai Din Ka Jhopra, a house with intricate carvings, though the roof was almost gone. Despite that, it was considered an important example of Indian architecture. It was either built by a rich man in two and a half days or constructed from his earnings during that time. They also visited the tomb of Khwaja Sahib (Moinuddin Chishti). Upon entering the dargah (tomb complex), they saw two large drums in the Naubatkhana (music hall). Emperor Akbar had presented them to honor Khwaja Sahib. Afterward, they visited the stone mosque built by Shah Jahan. There were graves of Khwaja Sahib and his wife, daughter Hafiz Zaman, Chimni Begum, and one of Shah Jahan's unmarried daughters. Some people say there is a Shiva statue hidden in a secluded part of the dargah. Afterward, the companion of the author was taken home by his family, and the author was left alone. In Ajmer, the author visited a defunct lead mine. The mine’s entrance was locked because, some time ago, a visitor who ventured inside was killed by a tiger that had been living there in hiding. Armed with a lantern, the author and two companions went inside. It was very dark, and the echo of their voices resonated. There were many water streams inside. In the darkness, hearing the echoes, the author’s fear of tigers led him to turn back without going any deeper.

One day, the author went to see Old Ajmer, whose ancient name was Indrakot. The fort in the valley west of Taragarh was in ruins, with only a broken temple remaining. Occasionally, the author went hunting in the mountains of Ajmer. Emperor Jahangir had built a beautiful garden in Ajmer named Daulatabad, where he used to stay. It remains a charming location to this day. Then, the author traveled 14 miles from Ajmer to watch the horse races at Nasibabad.

Next, the author traveled by train to Delhi and stayed at a Bengali’s house, where it was the time for Durga Puja. The puja was being held at the only Bengali-established Kali Mandir. There, the Bengalis gathered, and the author witnessed a performance of a baiji's song.

In Delhi, the author visited various places: Purana Qila (Old Fort), Sher Manzil, Lal Bangla, Arabi Sarai, Nizamuddin’s tomb, Neel Bhuj, Makbara Khān Khanna, Chausat Khamba, the well near Nizamuddin’s tomb, the tomb of Khusro, Mirza Jahangir's tomb, the tomb of Jahanara Begum, and Mohammad Sahar’s tomb. Some additional information from the writings of Bholanath Chandra that was not included in the original text is as follows:

• Lal Bangla: Located near Purana Qila, this site has two tombs made of red stone. The larger one was built by Emperor Humayun for one of his wives. The other one belongs to Queen Lal Kaur, wife of Emperor Shah Alam. The name "Lal Bangla" is derived from her name. However, according to Wikipedia, there is some debate about who these tombs actually belong to.
• Arabi Sarai: Near Purana Qila, it is believed to have been built by Haji Begum, Humayun's wife, for Arab Mullahs or possibly as a residence for them. There are two beautiful gates.
• Neel Bhuj: Located near Arabi Sarai, this is a tomb built by a Pathan emperor for a Syed’s tomb. It was once painted blue, but now only traces remain.
• 64 Khamba: This white stone building, which had 64 pillars, is the tomb of Mirza Aziz Baqultugh Khan, son of Ataga Khan, a distinguished member of Akbar’s court. It features white stone latticework.

The author also visited other parts of Old Delhi, such as the Iron Pillar, Lal Kot, Kila-Rai Pithra, Bhoot Khana, Qutub-ul-Ilm Mosque, Qutubuddin’s grave, Qutub Minar, Altamash's tomb, Alai Darwaza, Yogmaya Temple, Metcalfe Hall, Mohammadabad, Tughlaqabad, Jehanpanna, Roushan Chirag, and other historical sites related to the Sultanate and Mughal periods.

In modern Delhi, the author visited various places, including the Red Fort (Lal Qila), Chandni Chowk, Jama Masjid, Delhi Museum, Queens’ Garden, Shalimar Bagh, Kumari Masjid, Rasnara Begum’s tomb, and Salimgarh Fort.

Additionally, the author mentions Kashmir Darwaza and Laddlo Castle, associated with the memories of the Sepoy Rebellion. At Delhi Museum, the author saw statues of Jaymal and Putteh, along with other items that were once in the Diwan-i-Khas of the Red Fort. These were later moved to the Delhi Institute, and nearby, there was a broken elephant statue representing Jaymal’s mount.

Like Bholanath Chandra, Bardakanta Sengupta also discusses the Sepoy Rebellion in detail in this book, but since it is not related to the travelogue, it is not included here.

72. Bharat Bhraman 1 - Baradakanta Sengupta

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

               

   

The author of the book "Bharat Bhraman" (Travels in India), Bardakanta Sengupta, remains largely unknown. Only a few other titles written by him are known: Amar Gaan o Kobita (My Songs and Poems), Sarada (novel), Chander Biye (The Moon’s Marriage) (novel), Haemprabha (novel), and Pratibha (novel). He wrote for magazines like Sanjibani and Sandarbha. There is some ambiguity regarding the travel date in his book because the author mentions that the journey began on the 5th of Shrabana, 1288 Bengal year, i.e., July 19, 1881. However, in the dedication part of the book, he mentions the date as Magh 1284, which corresponds to 1878 CE. Since the dedication section could not have been written before the travel itself, it is assumed that the date in the dedication was printed incorrectly. Therefore, the journey is believed to have started on July 19, 1881.

At the beginning of the book, the author mentions that there are almost no travel accounts in Bengali. The experiences gained from his travels across various places in India over three years are written in this book. To collect details, he relied on the works of a few foreign travelers and popular literature. He also mentions that a second volume of this book would be published, which would include accounts of travels in Malwa, Central India, Bombay, and so on. However, the second volume was either not published or properly preserved. Therefore, this blog is based solely on the first volume.

The author had a thirst for travel since childhood, which intensified with age. Finally, on July 19, 1881, he secretly left his home for a journey across the country, accompanied by a young enthusiast named 'Sh _'. They informed their relatives of their departure through a letter left in a postbox at Howrah Station, before boarding a train. Thus began the real journey of the author.

There are many similarities between the travel destinations and stories of Bardakanta Sengupta and Bholanath Chandra's Travels of a Hindu. If any new subject matter arises, it will only be discussed.

The first travel locations mentioned in the train journey include: Shrirampur, Mahesh, Baidyabati, Chandannagar, Chuchura, Hooghly Imam Badi, Saptagram, Pandua, and Bardhaman. Among the new details provided by the author in this section are: (first) Mohammad Mohsin, sympathizing with his unfortunate sister, established the Imam Badi and arranged scholarships for poor Muslim students, while leading a life akin to that of a hermit with his sister; (second) the account of how they escaped from Bardhaman after being caught at a relative’s house.

After Bardhaman, they proceeded to Kanu Junction Station (Khana Junction), where they boarded a train to Rajmahal. Along the way, they passed through the Three Hills Station, a scenic location where the railway had been cut through the mountains. They then changed trains at this station to reach Rajmahal. There, they had cooked hilsa fish and slept at a shop. From Rajmahal, they traveled by train via Lakshisarai and Mokama to Barighat (Bardaghat, Nepal), planning to travel to Nepal. However, they changed their minds and extended their tickets to Banaras (Varanasi).

The train passed through places like Bankipur, Danapur, Ara, and the Son river bridge, eventually reaching Mughalsarai. From there, they took another train to Rajghat (a ghat in Varanasi), crossed by boat, and explored Varanasi. They visited the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, Annapurna Temple, Gyanvapi, and Beni Madhav's flag. They also saw the Trilanga Swami at the Manikarnika Ghat, where local people shared many miraculous tales about him, though the author didn’t witness them firsthand. They later visited the Man Mandir, Til Bhandeshwar, and Sarnath.

Next, they boarded a train on the Oudh and Rohilkhand Railway to Ayodhya, where they spent a night at a sarai (inn), enduring the discomfort of a cot and bedbugs, though they had a meal of luchi and curry earlier. The author remarked that there was nothing significant left to see in Ayodhya as the temples there appeared modern. Among the temples, Hanuman Garh (also known as Mahabir Garh) was the most important, followed by the birthplace of Lord Ram. The ghats on the Sarayu River, including Ram Ghat, Sita Ghat, and Lakshman Ghat, were also noted.

They then walked for 5-6 miles to reach Faizabad, a city described as clean and founded by a Muslim king, filled with mosques and grand buildings. It also had a British military cantonment. The author also recalled an event when Hastings had wrongfully persecuted and robbed the widow and relatives of the late Nawab Suja-ud-Daula.

At Faizabad, after a long period of craving for proper rice after eating luchis and puris, the author finally had rice made of paddy and potatoes, served on a sal leaf. Despite the rice being half-boiled, he found it immensely satisfying, something he hadn't experienced in his life before.

In the evening, they boarded a train to Lucknow. Upon arrival, the author overcame his hesitation and fear to take shelter at the home of a Bengali Assistant Surgeon. In Lucknow, they visited the Chauk, Kella, and heard stories about the manners and etiquettes of the people there. The Kaisarbagh, once magnificent during the time of Wajid Ali Shah, was now in ruins under British control. The area now housed the Canning College, government offices, and military prisons. The author also visited the Residency and saw the tombs of famous British soldiers, including those who had died during the Sepoy Rebellion. He visited a memorial church, where scenes of the rebellion were depicted on the walls, including one of a sepoy pleading for mercy and another of a British officer raising his sword to strike.

In the southern part of Kanpur, the author visited Yajmou, an area on the banks of the Ganges River, once said to be the residence of King Yajati. The area had ancient mounds, but little to see in terms of significant ruins, although excavation work later uncovered evidence from around 1300-1200 BCE.

North of Kanpur, they visited Bithur, a holy site for Hindus and said to be the hermitage of Valmiki. The author drew a comparison between the exile of Lord Rama’s wife Sita in the Treta Yuga and the exile of Peshwa Baji Rao by the British, which ultimately led to the uprising of the Sepoys.

The author continued his journey by train to Agra, where he stayed with a Bengali family. The European belief that the Taj Mahal was designed by a European draftsman named Austin de Burdiaux was refuted by the author, who noted that the inscription on the Taj Mahal’s entrance mentions the name Amanat Khan Siraji, the actual builder.

The author also visited the Agra Fort and several other places, but the details and historical discussions have been omitted to avoid repetition.

The author visited places such as the Zenana, Moti Masjid, Nagda Masjid, Sheesh Mahal, and others. He then went to visit Itimad-ud-Daula, Ram Bagh, Agra College, and the military cantonment before heading to Sikandra to visit Akbar's tomb. Near the mosque in Sikandra, the tomb of Akbar's Portuguese wife, Mariam-uz-Zamani, is located. Much like in Ayodhya, the author observed the nuisance caused by monkeys in Agra as well.

                           (To be continued)