The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
Western Kashmir:
When traveling by boat from Srinagar, after crossing the Safa Kadal Bridge, to the left, the river Dudh Ganga flows. A little further, on the left, the execution gallows can be seen. In the past, executions were frequently carried out here, but now the king rarely orders executions. Afterward, there is a beautiful wooden house for tourists.
Next, there is the Kheer Bhawani shrine. In the morning, the water in the kund (holy spring) was green when the author visited, but by 10 AM, it had turned pink. After that, while traveling along the river, one can see villages on both sides, Chinese woods, and the lush green grasslands that resemble carpets.
The first lake on this path is Manasbal Lake. The water here is very deep and clear. Nearby are the ruins of the Badshahabad, built by Emperor Jahangir. This lake is nourished by numerous springs located below it. White and red lotuses grow in the water, which add to the lake’s beauty. A beautiful waterfall cascades down from a high mountain in seven streams. Near the lake and waterfall is an ancient temple. The author had wished to spend the night on the grass here, but he was told that bears, wild animals known for their aggression, come to drink water here at night.
The next destination is the Wular Lake. This is the largest lake in the region, through which the river Vitasta flows. The shallow waters contain aquatic plants, lotus flowers, and many fish. When crossing Wular Lake by boat, there was a risk of the boat capsizing due to the strong winds.
Next, the author moves toward Nurukhal and then visits Lanka Island. About 400 years ago, the Muslim ruler Jalal-ud-Din constructed this island, which is around 200 feet long and about 150 feet wide. The dense forest, especially mulberry trees, is so thick that sunlight cannot penetrate it. Grape vines climb up the trees. The area is dotted with palaces and the ruins of columns. There is a Shiva lingam that may have been installed by a later Hindu king. In 1404, Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin of Kashmir had an artificial island built in the lake known as Zainal Lank.
On the opposite side of Lanka Island, on the western shore of the lake, stands Shakuruddin Hill. The path to the top is steep and must be climbed on foot. At the summit, there are the ruins of a famous fakir named Shakuruddin’s shrine, or mosque. From here, there is a beautiful view of Wular Lake and the villages on its banks.
On the southwest shore of the lake is Sopore, once the capital of Kashmir in ancient times. The place was originally called Surapur, after Sur, the minister of king Avantibarma, who rebuilt the city. Earlier, it was known as Kambura or Kampur. There are two beautiful houses for tourists to stay here. An ancient fort, a beautiful Shiva temple, and a mosque with golden spires are present. The climate here is very healthy, which is why the British used to visit this area. Fishing is a major activity here.
After that, by boat along the Vitasta River (Jhelum), the author reaches Baramulla. Here, the Pandits with long tilak on the forehead and wearing long firan (Kashmiri dress) begin their competition to serve as the author’s hosts. The Maharaja has also provided a bungalow for tourists. It was learned that an Englishman was conducting excavation work in search of hidden treasure. Legend has it that the Chinese emperors, after being defeated, hid valuable gems in the area near Baramulla.
The author and his companions reach a place where they see a tall Shiva lingam and a broken temple. It is said that the Pandavas had set up this structure. Nearby, excavation is underway in search of treasure, at a small mound, which is covered in jungle and inhabited by wild animals. Old brickwork is being uncovered at the site. (The place near Baramulla is called Uskur. The Archaeological Survey of India discovered the remains of the Buddhist monastery Jayendra Vihara here in 1869-70. The terracotta Buddha statues in Gandhara style, found here, are now in the British Museum. The author likely observed the excavation or earlier explorations during his visit in 1869. The site, named Hushkapur after Kushan king Huvishka, is now known as Uskur. The Chinese traveler Xuanzang mentioned this monastery in his writings.)
The author mentions that Kashmir has many mineral resources, many of which remain undiscovered due to lack of excavation. While traveling along the Chandrabhaga River, the author himself found large quantities of stones mixed with gold and silver.
Baramulla gets its name from Barahmulla, which is believed to have been the site of the Boar Avatar. There are traces of the boar’s hoof on a mountain here. Also present are the sacred places of Ramkund, Sitakund, and Suryakund. The Vitasta River has become narrow after passing through Baramulla, and its flow is swift and dangerous. Boats can no longer navigate through it.
Kashmir's uplands, or Margs, are rich with a variety of flowers, offering a breathtaking view that mesmerizes tourists. Gulmarg is the most beautiful of these. One must travel both by water and land from Srinagar to reach it. Flowers bloom from one end of the marg to the other, and for miles, all one can see is flowers. There are no accommodations for tourists here, so travelers set up their own camps. Many Gujjars (herders) and Choppans (shepherds) live in the area, so milk, curd, ghee, and meat are always available. However, other goods must be brought from far away.
Khilanmarg is another scenic morg. Though larger in size, it is not as beautiful in terms of flowers as Gulmarg.
Lolab is a very fertile region. It is 15 miles long and at places only a few miles wide, stretching up to three miles at other places. Surrounded by high mountains, a large river (Loulab River) flows through it. The land is very fertile, with many orchards of mulberries, walnuts, and chinars. The region is made up of around thirty villages. The climate is cool and healthy, making it a favorite hunting ground. Bears come in large groups when the fruit ripens, so the area is sometimes called the "Bear Forest."
In the northeastern part of Kashmir, beyond the Lolab region, there is an extraordinary area called Lar. The Sindh River (not the Indus River) flows through this valley. The route to Dras, Ladakh, and Yarkand passes through this region. The valley is breathtaking, with towering snow-capped mountains, forests of cedar and birch, delicious fruit orchards, and grasslands that resemble carpets. Grapes, peaches, walnuts, pears, and apples grow abundantly. Small villages dot both sides of the river, surrounded by fields of crops. This place is ideal for hunting. The climate is excellent, so Kashmiri nobles and tourists spend some time here during the months of Shravana and Bhadra. At the northwest end of this valley, there are several beautiful but dilapidated temples. There is a sacred spring or well called the Nagbal, and another sacred mountain lake called Gangabal. It is located at an altitude of 16,900 feet on the Harmukh mountain. This lake is the source of the Vitasta River and is a holy site for Hindus. For Kashmiri Pandits, Gangabal is as sacred as the Ganges. Every year, thousands of pilgrims gather here during the month of Bhadra.
At the northeastern end of the Sindh Valley, near Srinagar and 5 days' journey away, is Sonamarg (Golden Meadow), which is equally or more popular with tourists than Gulmarg. The Maharaja has built several houses here for the convenience of visitors.
Thus, the author’s journey through Kashmir concludes.
No comments:
Post a Comment