63. Three years in Europe 9 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

   The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant country is Germany.

From November 2, 1886, to December 15, 1886, during his nearly 45-day journey across various European countries, Romesh Chunder Dutt visited six countries and thirty cities. Following this, the author made some observations for future European travelers.

• In every reputable hotel in Europe, English, French, and German are spoken. Therefore, knowing any of these languages makes it easy for tourists to communicate without any difficulty.

• The Baedeker series of guidebooks are excellent. If one reads them beforehand, there's no need to spend money on a guide.

• During this 44-day journey, he spent a little more than 66 pounds, averaging 1.5 pounds per day.

• Due to the need to cover more places in a short time, his expenses were higher. If one stays longer in one place, the hotel charges are usually lower. Generally, Europeans travel by staying in one place for one to one and a half months.

• His hotel expenses amounted to thirty pounds, while rail fare cost twenty pounds. He spent fifteen pounds on car rentals, museum and gallery entrance fees, buying souvenirs, and taking photos.

• Different countries have different currencies, which can be inconvenient for travelers. If all countries were to adopt the same currency, it would benefit tourists. This far-sighted idea of Ramesh Chandra Dutt remained unused for many years. Later, in 1999, the euro became the common currency in most countries the author had visited, except England.

After this, the author traveled Europe once more, with a focus on Germany. He added this journey's narrative in the third edition of his book.

On August 12, 1893, Romesh Chunder Dutt visited Cologne, Germany, again after twenty-two years. By this time, many changes had occurred in Europe. The Cologne Cathedral, which had started in the 13th century, was completed in 1880 under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I of the newly unified German Empire. Describing the grandeur of this massive and royal cathedral in words is difficult.

From Cologne, he went to Wiesbaden, famous for its therapeutic baths. The author had come to Europe for a change of air due to ill health, but even there, he fell sick with malaria for about a month in England. He also suffered from sciatica. Thus, Wiesbaden proved beneficial for his health. After bathing in the warm springs and drinking the water every morning, he, like many others, regained his health within a month. He also began learning German.

Occasionally, he took delightful trips around the surrounding forests and the Rhine River. He particularly enjoyed reading a book alone in the shade of trees during a summer afternoon. In many European cities, natural forests are preserved close to the city. He hiked up and down the forest paths and visited nearby places like Sonnenberg, Neroberg, and Eisenhand. He also took a steamer along the Rhine to visit Germany’s National Monument. This monument features a 33-foot statue of Germania, with oak leaves on her head, a German royal crown in her right hand, and an open sword in her left. The statue sits on a 38-foot pedestal, located 740 feet above the ground. Germania is the personification of the entire German nation.

The author visited several German cities along the Rhine River and along the river route. Frankfurt, now in Prussia, is popular with tourists as the birthplace of the famous author Goethe. The city’s attractions include Goethe’s house, a statue, the old town hall, the cathedral, and the dilapidated Jewish quarter.

Another city along the Rhine is Mainz, where Gutenberg, the inventor of the printing press, was born, and a statue stands in his memory. On another day, he visited Worms, the birthplace of Martin Luther King, and saw his memorial and statue. Further along the Rhine, the river Neckar merges into the Rhine. The university city of Heidelberg lies along the Neckar. Its university is the oldest in Germany. The ancient and crumbling Heidelberg Castle, built in the 14th century, bears witness to many historical events. Continuing along the Rhine, the author visited Speyer, Strasbourg, Alsace, Metz, Lorraine, and other cities, each carrying its own history of wars and conflicts.

The travel narrative concludes with this excursion of the Rhineland—an account of Romesh Chunder Dutt’s three-year stay in Europe from 1868 to 1871 and his subsequent travels in 1886 and 1893. The book is so information-rich that in the future, when the travel stories of other writers on these countries are described on this blog, new information will simply be added based on it as the foundation. Due to Romesh Chunder Dutt’s extensive knowledge of European history and places, his writings remain relevant in many aspects to this day.

62. Three years in Europe 8 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part

In this part, the relevant countries are Rome and Vatican City.

The next landmark after Romesh Chunder Dutt is Vatican City. In 1929, Vatican City became recognized as a separate country after breaking away from Rome. When the author visited there in 1886, it was still part of Rome, which is why he recorded it as Rome. Currently, the most notable medieval Roman architecture in Vatican City is St. Peter's Church. With its grandeur and beauty, this church is unparalleled in the world. The entrance is flanked by two crescent-shaped colonnades, with 284 columns. On top of them, there are 192 statues of saints. The church features towering marble columns, a gold-inlaid ceiling, marble floors, bronze pillars, and a vast dome. The overall height of the church, combined with its splendor, creates an atmosphere of unimaginable luxury and grandeur. The precision of the architectural measurements is so exact that it is truly astonishing. The tombs and statues of Popes are located here. Some exceptional sculptures by Michelangelo are also present. The highest point of the church is 607 feet tall. There is also a 77-foot tall obelisk outside, which is very ancient, brought from Egypt to Rome by Emperor Caligula.

Near St. Peter’s Church is the Pope’s Palace, which was a separate empire before 1871, and during the author's visit, it was annexed to Italy. This palace houses many priceless paintings, the most notable being Michelangelo's The Last Judgment, painted on the walls of the Sistine Chapel. Beside the palace is the Vatican Museum, home to many ancient sculptures, including Michelangelo’s Apollo Belvedere.

The author next traveled to Velletri, 26 miles from Rome, an ancient Volsci tribe city, where there are ruins of an ancient fortress. After that, traveling through the ancient city of Segni and Ceprano, the author arrived in Naples. Naples is less clean than other Italian cities and has beggars on the streets. The author visited the Royal Palace, the Church of Saint Francesco di Paolo, and the Aquarium, where an electric fish shocked him when he touched it.

The author’s long-cherished dream of seeing Mount Vesuvius came true. For 28 francs, a company took them to the crater. The horse-drawn carriage left the city and climbed winding mountain roads. Everywhere on the slopes of Vesuvius, layers of lava from thousands of years ago have formed various patterns. From the top of the mountain, the view of Naples is very beautiful. After a stop at a hotel for lunch, they continued, but the mountain’s steep slope could not be climbed by horse, so a cable car system was in place. Instead of steam or electricity, the rail cars were drawn up using ropes and pulleys. They almost reached the summit in this way, and the temperature had decreased significantly with the altitude. After that, the remaining distance had to be covered on foot. Standing on the edge of the crater, the author saw sulfurous white smoke rising rapidly from below. From the active Vesuvius, rocks were being ejected along with the smoke. He also saw new lava flowing from the crater. A piece of paper dropped into the crater was blown back up with such force, like a bullet, due to the pressure of the smoke.

Among all the places the author visited, the one he most wanted to see was Pompeii, buried under lava for eighteen centuries, which had been excavated. The ruins of this city offer a glimpse into the daily life of its people. Like other ancient Roman cities, Pompeii has a forum, with temples dedicated to Neptune, Jupiter, Venus, Isis, Augustus, and Mercury. There are also courts, prisons, theaters, amphitheaters, baths, shops, bakeries, and other buildings. The author saw the Herculaneum Gate, the Palace of the Vestal Virgins, and the House of the Ceasars. However, the homes of ordinary people were very small and had no windows, so there was little ventilation or light. The roads were paved with stone but were not very wide. There was no drainage system, and the sizes of the rooms were surprisingly small compared to today’s standards. Ordinary household items like lamps, utensils, etc., were few and are now mostly preserved in the Naples Museum. The walls of many ordinary homes also depicted crude and obscene images, showing that the sense of modesty and sin of the time was different from today’s standards.

At the foot of Mount Vesuvius lies Herculaneum, another city destroyed by the volcanic eruption of 79 AD. Unlike Pompeii, it was not covered by a thick layer of ash but by deep layers of lava. New towns like Portici, Resina, and Torre del Greco have been built on top of this lava. So, unlike Pompeii, it is not possible to excavate the ancient civilization by digging here. Only a small part of the vast theater of Herculaneum has been excavated. This theater could seat around 10,000 people. Some common homes have also been uncovered, which are similar in structure to those of Pompeii.

The Naples Museum houses many artifacts found in Pompeii and Herculaneum. There are numerous small and large bronze statues, mostly of gods and goddesses, including the famous three statues of a fawn-child, one sleeping, one dancing, and one intoxicated. There are also household items like lamps, weights, cotton spindles, farming tools, weaving instruments, weapons, surgical instruments, musical instruments, and more. Items for the wealthy, including gold and silver vessels and jewelry, have also been found. The food grains, vegetables, eggs, and fruits preserved from that era show that people, unaware of their imminent doom, had stored these food items for the future.

After visiting Pompeii, the author went to Pisa, famous for its leaning tower, although the city also has a rich history. The tower stands at one end of the cathedral’s bell tower and is 180 feet tall with an eight-story structure. It leans so much that it looks as if it might fall. The cathedral itself was built in the 11th century. It is said that Galileo discovered his theory of the pendulum after watching the swinging bronze lamp here.

From Pisa, after traveling through the Apennine mountains and the plains of Piedmont, the author arrived in Turin, the capital of Piedmont. Known for its natural beauty, historical significance, and modern development, the city is comparable to Paris, Berlin, and Vienna in terms of modernity. Turin is laid out in wide, beautiful streets stretching from north to south. The city’s large roads, squares, and railway stations are lit by electric lights, which were not common in European cities at the time (although Paris had electric street lighting in 1878). The Palazzo Madama, or Lady’s Palace, is a notable attraction. 

The author left Turin on December 13, 1886 and traveled through Rivoli, crossing the Mount Sene Tunnel through the Alps, arriving in Modena. This is a border town where their belongings were checked. The next day, they reached Paris.

                       (To be continued)

61. Three years in Europe 7 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant country is Italy.

On November 25, 1886, Romesh Chunder Dutt toured the city of Verona in Italy. As he wandered through the narrow but clean streets, he often felt as if he were in a well-maintained Indian city. Among the houses, there were large square courtyards in the Indian style. The favorable climate and fertile land had helped both India and Italy establish ancient civilizations when most other countries in the world had no signs of civilization. After the 10th century, both India and Italy had been ravaged by foreign invasions. Some remnants of the ancient Roman civilization are still present in Verona. The Arena or Amphitheater is the main among them. Built entirely of marble in the 1st century AD, the Arena could seat 22,000 people, who gathered to watch the brutal games of ancient Rome. There is also the Porta dei Borsari – the entrance gate of the Roman city. In the center of the city stands the Palace of the Council and the marble statue of Dante, Italy's greatest poet. Additionally, the medieval palace, known as Romeo’s house (from the famous play Romeo and Juliet), is a popular sight in Verona.

That evening, Romesh Chunder Dutt left Verona and set off for Florence and Rome. After passing through Mantua, he arrived in Bologna that night. Bologna is full of arcaded streets. In the Victor Emmanuel Square here, there is a statue of Neptune, a church, and several ancient palaces. Close by are the university and several old churches. The most notable sights include the two Leaning Towers, made of bricks in the 12th century. The towers, one 272 feet tall and the other 130 feet, lean slightly, giving the impression that they might fall. The Italian artists, the brothers Renni and Caracci, were born in Bologna, and their valuable paintings can be found in the local Academy. The cemetery here, Campo Santo, is considered one of the most beautiful burial sites in Europe, with many famous people's graves and statues that are worth visiting.

From Bologna, the author crossed the Reno River, passed through many tunnels, and arrived in Florence after passing through Pistoia (where the first pistol was made). Florence, on the banks of the Arno River, is a beautiful city surrounded by dense forests and mountains. Florence ushered in the light of the medieval era, marking the end of the ancient world. It achieved great excellence in poetry, literature, art, sculpture, and science, an achievement almost unparalleled. Galileo, Dante, Petrarch, Boccaccio, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo were all born here. The Uffizi and Pitti Galleries in Florence are rich in art collections. Also noteworthy are the Cathedral, the Bell Tower, and the Baptistry. The Medici Chapel is a stunning architectural masterpiece, with its interior walls made of 18 types of marble and various precious materials. Some sculptures by Michelangelo, such as Day, Night, Dawn, and Twilight, can be seen here, representing the best of Renaissance art. There are also some unfinished works because Michelangelo moved to Rome before completing them. (The Medici were a wealthy Italian family who ruled Florence during the Renaissance and were patrons of the arts. Many members of this family became popes and rulers in various places.)

The author then visited the Church of San Croce, where he saw the tomb of the scientist Galileo and his statue holding a telescope in his memory. He also saw the tomb of Michelangelo, accompanied by statues of three women representing painting, sculpture, and architecture. The tomb of the politician Machiavelli was also here. While Dante's tomb is not in Florence, there is a statue of him, 18 feet tall, placed on a pedestal that stands 22 feet high.

Next, the author headed to Rome, which, in his opinion, requires at least a month to fully explore. He spent four days there. According to the author, a whole book could be written about Rome, but he only wrote a summary. His tour of Rome began at the Roman Forum. The Roman Forum was the public plaza of ancient Rome and the city's center for social, political, and commercial activities. It was located between the Palatine Hill and the Capitoline Hill. The Forum played a vital role in the history of the ancient Roman Empire.

Next, the author explored the Via Sacra, a significant road that stretched from the Roman Forum to the Caelian Hill. It was used for religious ceremonies and military processions. The first sight was the Tabularium, where the Twelve Tables were displayed (these were the laws of Rome from the 5th century BC). The Arch of Severus was the next monument, followed by the ruins of the Temple of Vespasian. There were also some columns of the Temple of Saturn, followed by the remains of the Basilica Julia, started by Julius Caesar and completed by his successors. It was mainly used for legal and commercial purposes. After that, the Corinthian columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux were visible, followed by the Regia, where Julius Caesar lived until his death.

The next sight was the Temple of Vesta, where the sacred fire was kept by the Vestal Virgins. The remains of the Vestal Virgins' residence could still be seen. Then, the Temple of Fortuna, with its ten beautiful columns, was visited. The vast Basilica of Constantine, built by Emperor Vespasian, was another significant sight. The Arch of Titus, built in 70 AD to commemorate the victory in Jerusalem, is nearly intact. Its sculptures depict Roman military victories. Next was the Temple of Venus, built in 391 AD.

The author then visited the Meta Sudans fountain, where gladiators washed their hands and feet before entering the Colosseum. The massive Colosseum stood beyond the Arch of Constantine. It was the largest amphitheater, used for gladiatorial games, animal hunts, executions, and public entertainment. Emperor Vespasian began its construction, and his son Titus completed it in 80 AD. The Colosseum could accommodate 100,000 spectators. At its opening, 5,000 wild animals and 10,000 prisoners were sacrificed. Later, many prisoners, Christians, and gladiators were killed here for the entertainment of the excited Roman crowds. In later years, much of the Colosseum's stones were used in the construction of Roman houses and roads, which led to its current state of ruin.

The Palatine Hill, where the ruins of the ancient palace of the Roman king Tarquin can be seen, also contains the ancient walls of the supposed temple of Romulus, the legendary founder of Rome. Nearby are the ruins of the palace of Vespasian and Augustus's palace. Other notable sights included the Baths of Caracalla, the public baths built during the reign of Emperor Caracalla. These baths were used for bathing, exercising, and as a place of social gathering. There was also another bathhouse built during the reign of Emperor Diocletian, part of which Michelangelo converted into a church.

A highly important site in Rome is the Pantheon, an ancient temple built by Emperor Hadrian, now used as a church. The Pantheon is famous for its enormous dome. The famous artist Raphael is buried there. Other notable Roman monuments include Trajan's Column, commemorating Emperor Trajan’s military victories, and Antoninus' Column, built in memory of Emperor Antoninus. The ancient Roman aqueducts, another remarkable achievement, are now considered a tourist attraction.

There are more than 300 churches in Rome, some of which are also remarkable, such as the Church of St. Paul, St. John Lateran Church, and St. Maria Maggiore Church. The author also visited the Catacombs of St. Calixtus, a Christian burial and religious site from the 2nd century, where early Christians secretly held religious ceremonies. St. Sebastian's Church was built over the catacombs. Many Christian martyrs are buried here. The ruined temples in Rome symbolize the decline of ancient Roman religion, while the catacombs signify the rise of Christianity.

                            (To be continued)

60. Three years in Europe 6 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant countries are Germany, Austria and Czech Republic.

Ramesh Chandra Dutta traveled from Amsterdam, Holland, to Hanover, Germany. In Hanover, some parts of the city feature ancient houses, while other areas have been developed with new buildings. The famous philosopher and mathematician Leibniz’s house is still marked for visitors. Dutta visited the royal palace, town hall, church, and market.

Berlin, which was a fishing village in the 12th century, became a city in 1250 and was surrounded by a wall by 1300. Tiergarten, Berlin's most picturesque park, features a victory monument. Leaving the park and heading east, the writer and his companions entered the city through the Brandenburg Gate. The gate stands 85 feet tall, with a bronze statue of a woman on a chariot symbolizing victory (Quadriga of Victory). There are five entrances, with the middle one reserved for royal carriages. Inside, Dutta saw Paris Platz, a square surrounded by important buildings, including various embassies. From here, Unter den Linden, a beautiful street, begins, with a bronze statue of Frederick the Great (18th-century Prussian ruler) along the way. On the opposite side is the relatively simple-looking royal palace, the Kaiser’s residence. Dutta caught a glimpse of the Kaiser through the palace window. Nearby, they visited the university building and the Royal Library, which houses rare collections such as Gutenberg’s Bible on parchment and Martin Luther’s Bible translation from 1460. In front of the royal palace stands the Arsenal, a museum of old cannons and weapons. Crossing a bridge on Unter den Linden, Dutta entered an island with old castles and museums. The Old Museum contains valuable paintings by Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Raphael, Titian, and others. The New Museum displays modern art, sculptures, and collections from ancient Egypt. The ancient royal palace is a large, four-story building with a 240-foot dome and a royal chapel. After crossing another bridge, they entered the old city and visited the Town Hall (Rathaus), which has the tallest tower in Berlin.

Another beautiful street in Berlin is Wilhelm Street, where he visited the home of the Prussian politician Bismarck. Another important street is Friedrich Street, which is home to the famous German Theater, with a marble statue of Schiller in front. The street also features French and German churches and a statue of Goethe. At the southern edge of the city, where Wilhelm Street and Friedrich Street meet, is a place called Belle Alliance, home to the Waterloo Monument. This monument has four white stone pillars representing England, the Netherlands, Germany, and Prussia, symbolizing their victory over Napoleon. Similar monuments can be found at Waterloo Bridge in England, Brussels in Belgium, Amsterdam, and Hanover.

Dresden, located in the Saxony province, is home to the Zwinger Palace's gallery, which has made the city a notable art center in Europe. It was here that porcelain was first invented, and Dresden's porcelain works are highly famous. The gallery's most prized possession is Raphael’s Madonna, along with paintings by Michelangelo, Titian, Rubens, Van Dyck, and others.

On the way from Dresden to Bohemia (now the Czech Republic), they passed towering mountains and forests along the Elbe River, a region known as Saxon Switzerland for its breathtaking beauty and wild landscapes. In Bohemia, the capital city of Prague sits on the banks of the Moldau River. The city still retains much of its ancient character. One of the old gates to the city is the Powder Tower, which leads to the Great Ring, where Bohemian kings and knights once held competitions and religious ceremonies. Nearby is the old Jewish quarter, where many atrocities occurred before the Jewish population was expelled. Along the Moldau River, he saw the Bohemian royal palace atop a hill. Below it was the Wallenstein Palace, the residence of a hero from the Thirty Years' War. Bohemia's glory largely diminished when it became part of Austria, but patriotism remains strong among the Slavs.

The writer  then arrived in Vienna, the capital of Austria. Like other European capitals in the last 20-30 years, Vienna has been beautified to resemble Paris, with wide roads, squares, gardens, and palace-like buildings. Yet, nature has also been preserved within the city. The old city lies on the right bank of the Danube Canal, a waterway originally built in 1867 for ship traffic. Alongside the canal is the Ringstrasse, a semi-circular wide road home to important landmarks like the University, Town Hall, Parliament Building, theaters, the Palace of Justice, Royal Palace, Opera House, and St. Charles Church. The most impressive room in the Royal Palace is the Regalia room, which showcases the royal insignia—symbols of the king and queen's power. Among its treasures is the Florentine diamond, one of the largest in the world. The palace also houses an extensive collection of royal carriages and horses. He then visited the Belvedere Palace, which retains its gardens and statues while serving as a museum. Its picture gallery boasts works by Titian, Rubens, Raphael, and Albert Dürer. Prater Hall, a large park in the city, is a popular destination for tourists, similar to Paris's Bois de Boulogne.

After spending some time in Vienna, he continued to Salzburg, a city located between towering snow-capped peaks on the banks of the Salzach River. The surrounding alpine beauty adds a unique charm to the city.

After a brief stay in Salzburg, the writer traveled westward to Bavaria, passing through the Alps and enjoying the breathtaking scenery. After crossing the picturesque Traunstein, he arrived in the beautiful village of Berchtesgaden. Continuing his journey, he passed Lake Chiemsee, where three islands, once home to Christian saints and hermits, could be seen.

After crossing the rivers Prien and Inn, the writer reached Rosenheim, a Bavarian city located just 40 miles from Munich. However, due to lack of time, he could not visit Munich. From Rosenheim to Innsbruck, the journey follows the banks of the Inn River through a beautiful valley filled with snow-covered mountains and gorges. In November, the snow-covered landscape of Innsbruck was enchanting. He saw the carved tomb of Emperor Maximilian (15th-century Holy Roman Emperor), the statue of the king, and the cathedral. 

On November 24, 1886, the writer departed Austria for Italy via the Brenner Pass, which marks the border between Austria and Italy. As the train slowly ascended, it passed through narrow gorges and tunnels, with the foamy waters of the Sill River rushing below. The surrounding mountains stood at 7,000 feet, covered in snow. Eventually, the train reached the 4,490-foot-high Brenner Pass, where it stopped for five minutes. The stunning snowy landscape against the blue sky left a lasting impression on Romesh Chunder Dutt. The train then began its descent, passing through more tunnels and entering the beautiful Adige River valley.

Traveling down from the mountains, the train followed the Adige River, passing small villages, churches, and vineyards. The wine produced from these vineyards is known as Tyrolean wine. The train reached Bolzano, the capital of the Tyrol region, which is surrounded by high mountains, ensuring that cold northern winds do not reach the area. Instead, warmer southern winds make the climate pleasant, which has led to the development of the area as a health resort. From Bolzano, the train continued through Trento and Ala, eventually arriving in Verona, Italy, where Romesh Chunder Dutt entered the country.

                   (To be continued)

59. Three years in Europe 5 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

      The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant countries are Belgium and Holland.

On November 2, 1886, the author left his family in England and traveled alone for a month and a half through twelve countries, including Germany, Austria, and Italy. The author’s steamship journey began from the White Cliffs of Dover, London.

The first city on the water route was Ostend in Belgium, which is home to the Belgian royal palace and a popular European seaside resort. After that, the author visited the ancient city of Bruges, once one of Europe's major trading centers. The city's Notre-Dame is very old and tall, and it houses the graves of many famous personalities, as well as various valuable paintings. The Bell Frey (the historical bell tower) is a cultural landmark of Belgium and a major attraction. There is also the famous market area of Hotel de Ville, built in the fourth century. The next city was Ghent, where notable sites include the cathedral, the Bell frey, the city hall (Hotel de Ville), the market, and the ancient palace of Count Flanders.

The author then visited Brussels, a city as picturesque as Paris, with boulevards similar to those in Paris. Key attractions here include the Palais de Justice (the courthouse), the museums of Counts Egmont and Hoorne, the library, the royal cathedral, the city hall (Hotel de Ville), and the Congress Column.

From Brussels, the author took a train to the Waterloo battlefield, just 40 minutes away, where the defeat of Napoleon in 1815 marked the fall of his empire. At a place called Château of Hugues, the author saw bullet marks on the walls.

Antwerp, now Belgium's military center, is also famous for the renowned painters Rubens and Van Dyck. The city's cathedral is the finest example of Gothic architecture in the Netherlands, and there are also museums and the Hotel de Ville.

The author then traveled to Rotterdam in the Holland by train. The train passed over the famous Hollandich Diep River bridge, and the city is known for its notable iron bridge or viaduct, which the train to Amsterdam crosses. Although Rotterdam is a typical Dutch city, it is a significant commercial hub.

After that, the author visited The Hague, a city historically and architecturally more significant than Rotterdam. The Hague is home to the royal palace, the parliament, and the Dutch government's main offices. The Binnenhof, a medieval castle surrounded by a moat, and the Buitenhof, a historic palace housing the Dutch Parliament and other government institutions, are major attractions, along with the town hall and picture gallery.

The author then went to Leiden, a university city in the Netherlands, often called the "Athens of the West" for its intellectual legacy. The city's museum is also noteworthy, containing ancient statues of Hindu gods like Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesha, and Durga, which were brought from the Dutch colony of Java. The presence of Hinduism in Java contradicts the superstition during the author's time that crossing the "black water" (the ocean) was taboo for Hindus.

Next, the author traveled to Amsterdam, passing through Haarlem. In the 11th century, Lord Armsteld of Amstel built a dam on the river, and the city got its name from this structure. Amsterdam is remarkable because it is divided into 90 islands, connected by nearly 300 bridges. Many boats also navigate the canals of the city. The houses lining the canals are built on wooden piles because the wet soil does not support brick foundations. Attractions include the royal palace, the parliament, churches, and museums.From Amsterdam, the author visited the northern Dutch town of Helder.

Leaving Amsterdam, the author traveled to the historic town of Zandam, where they saw many forests and windmills. Next came Alkmaar, a town known for its cheese trade, followed by Helder, a fishing village. The author’s final destination in the Netherlands was the seaside resort of Zuider Zee, which they visited by steam tram. Zuider Zee is an inland sea, and the author learned that plans were being made to convert the area into agricultural and grazing land. This transformation was completed in the 20th century and is considered a marvel of Dutch engineering.

                             (To be continued)

58. Three years in Europe 4 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

      The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant countries are Norway, Sweden.

On July 22, 1886, the author Romesh Chunder Dutt went on a trip to Norway and Sweden with some friends, traveling from London. They reached the port of Hull by rail from London and then sailed towards Norway via the North Sea by steamer.

Until 10:30 PM on July 24, the author sat on the deck of the steamer reading a book, as there was still plenty of sunlight. The next morning, after a brief stop at the small port of Ålesund, the steamer set off again. A cold northern wind blew, and by noon, they arrived at the picturesque town of Kristiansund. True to Norway's characteristic, the houses were clean, beautiful, and made of wood. In the evening, the steamer arrived at Drøbak. From there, they boarded a new steamer heading towards North Cape. Even though it was late at night, the steamer departed with daylight still present (Norway is known as the land of the midnight sun). The cold breeze from the Arctic Ocean added to the atmosphere, while the day was cloudy and foggy. Countless islands and fjords appeared on either side of the steamer. Most of the land here is barren, with little agricultural activity in some areas. Cod and herring are the only fish caught here, and they are Norway's main exports. In the afternoon, they disembarked at a small island named Torghatten, where they had milk and lemonade. The Seven Sisters of Alstahaug, seven tall peaks, rose above the sea, with their snowy tips veiled in mist. At midnight that day, the author crossed the Arctic Circle and reached the polar regions. In the morning, they enjoyed clear, sunny weather. Passing through the city of Bodø, they marveled at the islands along Norway's northwest coast as they reached Raftsundet. They saw breathtaking mountains, valleys, and fjords. While observing the glaciers and the beautiful ice-capped peaks, they went to sleep at 10 PM, still under the sunlight on the mountains.

The next day, the steamer docked at Tromsø, where they explored on foot. They had now reached Norway's Lapland, a region once inhabited only by the Lap people. The Laplanders are short in stature, wearing clothing made of reindeer hide. They build small huts from birch bark and grass, with a hole in the roof to let in light and let out smoke. Children are tied in leather swings inside these huts, unable to move their arms and legs except for their faces. The Laplanders' cheekbones are high, and their only possession is reindeer. They now sell bone spoons, knives, and leather bags and shoes to travelers. The author observed fur and skins from Arctic animals, such as stuffed bears, polar wolves, white foxes, whales, sharks, walruses, eagles, and seagulls, being sold on the streets of Tromsø.

After leaving Tromsø in the evening, the steamer continued its journey. The next day, the author arrived in Hammerfest, the northernmost city in the world, where there are only a few huts and a church. In winter, it is covered in snow, and sleds are the only mode of transport. Fishing and fish processing are the main activities there. After leaving Hammerfest, the steamer passed by a place called Birds Rock, where they saw countless seagulls. When the steamer fired its cannon, the birds flew in a circular motion, looking like clouds in the sky. They had never seen so many birds in one place before.

Two hours later, the steamer arrived at North Cape. North Cape rises directly 1,000 feet above the sea. This is the end of Europe. The next stretch of the Arctic Ocean, heading further north, has been seen by no human before (Norwegian explorers first reached the North Pole in 1926). The steamer turned southward for its return journey. After Hammerfest, they arrived at the Lingøya Fjord, where the sea water had entered the land about 30-40 miles, forming a beautiful lake with steep cliffs on both sides. Some areas had mountains rising up to 3,000-4,000 feet, and in some places, the stones had moved back to form valleys. Small waterfalls gathered from all sides, and enormous blocks of ice lay in the depressions. Silver waterfalls cascaded down the mountainsides, and glaciers slowly moved down, almost imperceptibly. They spent the whole night admiring these diverse, natural views.

As they passed Tromsø and the Lofoten Islands, the author was struck by the ethereal beauty of the scenery illuminated by the golden light of the setting sun. At 11 PM, the sun had set, and at 2 AM, the sunrise began in the eastern sky. They then saw the largest glacier in Europe, the Svartisen Glacier, which is over 80 miles long. They walked a little on the glacier. On August 2, 1886, after an eight-day steamer journey, they arrived at the city of Trondheim.

During this trip, they had traveled from 63 degrees north latitude to 71 degrees north latitude. In Trondheim, they visited the centuries-old cathedral built over the tomb of Saint Olaf (who made Sweden independent from Norway and became Sweden's first king).

On August 3, they began their journey by rail to Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, 530 miles away. After crossing the Kjønlen mountain range on the Norway-Sweden border, they arrived at Storlin, the first Swedish town on the route. The train passed through dense green pine forests, mountain waterfalls, and scenic lakes, with only a few small wooden houses along the way. The train reached Sala, passing towns like Åre, Dalarna, and Krillbo. The landscape gradually became flatter, and they briefly stopped at Uppsala, a historic university town. They saw the ancient Gothic-style cathedral, the tomb of Gustav Vasa, the tomb and monument of scientist Carl Linnaeus, as well as the university and library. In the library, they saw ancient Gothic manuscripts written on parchment paper with gold and silver letters.

After this, they traveled by train and reached Stockholm by night. Stockholm, though not densely populated, is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The city's natural beauty is immense, with several islands located at the confluence of Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. The city is divided into northern and southern parts, called Norrmalm and Södermalm. The mainland, called Stadsholmen, along with other islands, form the city. They visited the Royal Palace, the ballroom, the gallery, the church, and the royal burial grounds. Södermalm, which is located on a high hill, offers stunning views of the Baltic Sea and the many anchored steamers. From the top, one could also see Norrmalm.

They then traveled by steamer to Gustavsberg, located in the Baltic Sea, where they admired the rural beauty and natural landscapes. The people of Sweden and Norway are described as kind, polite, cheerful, and unpretentious. Their faces did not show the arrogance of the English, and they were very helpful. In Stockholm, the author visited the Parliament, National Library, and National Museum.

Later, they sailed on the Baltic Sea and North Sea towards Gothenburg. The next day, they arrived at Lake Rosen, passing through 15 lakes and rising 150 feet. It was fascinating to see the steamer gradually rising by 10 feet each time a new lock opened and the previous one closed. Finally, they reached Lake Boren, and, passing through lakes Väddeln, Väjern, and Vänern, they arrived at the Trollhättan waterfalls. From there, they sailed down the Göta River and reached Gothenburg, a port city known for its trade. The author visited the annual fair that was being held at the time.

Their next destination was Kristiania. After crossing the river and entering the Baltic Sea, the steamer sailed to the place where the Vikings once navigated, evoking a sense of fear during this turbulent journey. (The Vikings were seafaring warriors from Scandinavia who invaded and settled parts of Europe between 800 and 1100 AD). (In 1925, Kristiania was renamed Oslo, the capital of Norway).

Finally, on August 13, the steamer arrived in Kristiania. They visited the royal palace, parliament, and university. The most important discovery for the author in Kristiania was the two Viking ships, likely from the 9th century, recently discovered in the tombs of Viking warriors. Afterward, the author returned to England by steamer.

                            (To be continued)

57. Three years in Europe 3 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant countries are France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy.

Author Romesh Chunder Dutt went on a whirlwind tour of various places in France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy for three weeks. On August 14, 1871, he and his friends left London, arriving in Paris the next day. Paris, once the greatest city in the world, had become dilapidated, especially after the communist uprising had destroyed many buildings. The Palais Royal, Vendôme Column, and the Tuileries (the French royal palace) had been demolished. However, the beautiful, brightly lit streets gave the impression that Paris was always in a state of celebration. The destruction caused by the events, such as the Franco-Prussian War and the Paris Commune of 1871, could only be understood by seeing the ruins.

The Louvre Museum in Paris, a royal palace adjacent to the Tuileries, had fortunately been spared from this destruction. The author explored its invaluable collection of statues and paintings. Napoleon’s Arc de Triomphe remained intact, with inscriptions commemorating his victories. From the top of the column, they viewed the beauty of Paris and the Seine River. They took a steamer along the Seine and visited the magnificent Notre-Dame Church, where Napoleon’s body had been brought from the island of Saint Helena for burial. The tomb’s inscription revealed Napoleon’s final wish to be buried beside the Seine among his beloved French people. The tomb was surrounded by white stone columns, statues, and topped with a beautiful dome.

They then traveled to Saint-Cloud, a former royal retreat, where the palace had been burned down but the gardens and roads remained beautiful. Next, they visited Versailles, the legacy of France’s most powerful king, Louis XIV. Despite the palace now housing various offices, they were granted permission to explore. The rooms, paintings, and statues within reflected the glory of France’s past. The gardens of Versailles, with their shaded paths, fountains, groves, and seating areas, were as enchanting as a fairy tale.

From Paris, they journeyed to Cologne, Germany, on the banks of the Rhine River, a city famous for its cathedral but otherwise very dirty. The next day, they took a steamer to Mainz, passing many castles along the river. After crossing the town of Bonn, they saw the Seven Hills and the Drachenfels Castle. The southern part of the Rhine was dominated by tall mountains piercing the mist.

They then arrived in Switzerland, visiting the lakes of Fluelen and Lucerne, some of the most beautiful places in the world. Surrounded by towering mountains, the serene lakes presented a breathtaking view. From Lucerne, they traveled by steamer and horse-drawn carriage to Interlaken, located between Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, where they admired the snowy peak of Jungfrau illuminated by moonlight. After crossing the lake by steamer, they took a train to Bern, a city known for its beautiful churches, houses, and streets. From Bern, they marveled at the view of the snow-covered Alps. They also visited Lucerne, where the historian Gibbon finished writing his History of Rome. From there, they went to the Chillon Castle, where they saw the dark underground chambers where the Swiss independence fighter, Bonivard, was chained for six years. The author also noted that poet Byron had carved his name into one of the pillars of the cell.

After visiting the castle, they traveled to Geneva, on the opposite shore of Lake Geneva. As they sailed across the lake, they could see the Jura Mountains on one side and the towering Alps on the other. Geneva was the birthplace of philosophers Rousseau and historian Sismondi, and from there, they saw the snow-capped Mont Blanc (4,808 meters).

While traveling through Switzerland, the author observed that even the poorest people were doing well. Their small wooden cottages were beautifully painted, their land was well-cultivated, and everything was kept clean. The people were polite and very different from the poor farmers in England, or Europe in general.

From there, they returned to Lucerne and took a coach called Diligence over the beautiful Saint Gotthard Pass to Italy. This mountain pass, which rises 7,000 feet above sea level, was a tiring but scenic journey. They reached Como, Italy, where they relaxed and bathed in the lake, which relieved their exhaustion. From Como, they traveled to Milan, known for its magnificent white stone cathedral, the best architectural work in Europe.

Next, they visited Venice, a city unlike any other, where the waters of the sea flow through the streets, surrounded by beautiful churches, cathedrals, ancient palaces, and domes. The heart of the city was St. Mark’s Place, and they also visited the Doge's Palace and the Princely Palace. They explored the dark, unhealthy, and brutal prison cells in the palace. In St. Mark’s Church, they saw statues and architectural relics brought by the Venetians from their conquests of various parts of the world, including Egypt, Constantinople, and Jerusalem. The famous golden lion of Venice, the city's symbol, was also present. Other churches in Venice were outstanding examples of Italian art. From Venice, they took a steamer to Brindisi, continuing their journey towards Bombay (India) for nearly three weeks.

Eighteen years later, on April 15, 1886, the author once again set sail from Calcutta for England. This time, he was accompanied by his wife, a brother, and four small children. Their journey by sea largely retraced the earlier descriptions, but with a few additions. During this voyage, the author saw many whales in the Indian Ocean, although they were not very large. In London, they visited Kensington Gardens and Kensington Palace, where Queen Victoria first received the news of her coronation. Near the palace were the Albert Memorial and the Albert Hall. They also visited Hyde Park, Green Park, and St. James's Park, and then reached the royal Buckingham Palace. Near Westminster Abbey was the Parliament House. In the northern part of London, they visited Regent's Park and the London Zoo.

The author then visited Oxford, the center of academic excellence, before taking his family to the quiet and secluded Little Hampston, located near Arundel, for a peaceful coastal retreat. They visited the aquarium in Brighton, home to many strange sea creatures, including an octopus. The author and his family greatly enjoyed walking along the beach, bathing in the cold sea water, and wandering the nearby country paths. The children delighted in picking blackberries from the bushes.

The author was then invited to give a lecture in Bristol. In the grounds of St. Mary Radcliffe Church, there was a monument dedicated to the young poet Chatterton, who claimed that his poems had come to him in the church. The most beautiful part of Bristol was Clifton, where the famous suspension bridge spanned the Avon River. Bath, a city surrounded by green hills, was known for its ancient Roman baths. The Abbey Church there was called the "Lantern of Western Europe" for its stunning stained glass windows. In Wales, they visited a small town famous for its cathedral and saw the ancient bishop's castle. They also visited the old Glastonbury Abbey. Afterward, they took in the scenic views of the Wye River, known as the "Rhine of England," before returning to Little Hampstead.

From Little Hampston, the author traveled to Paris, arriving on April 25, 1886. Having already visited many of Paris's famous landmarks, this time he explored the remaining attractions. The northern and southern parts of Paris were previously not considered part of the city, but were later incorporated as the city expanded across the Seine River, with the older part of Paris now called the "Cité." There, he visited Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Palais de Justice (Court), La Sainte-Chapelle, and then traveled to the northern bank of the Seine to see the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens, the Palais de la Concorde (Europe’s largest and most beautiful square), the Champs-Élysées (a grand avenue with gardens), and the Arc de Triomphe (Napoleon's victory monument). He also visited the Bois de Boulogne (a former royal hunting ground now a large park and zoo), the Vendôme Column (a monument celebrating Napoleon’s victories), the statue of Joan of Arc (a French warrior who was martyred in 1431), the Palais Royal (a historic palace), St.-Eustache Church, Hôtel de Ville (the Town Hall that was burned down by the 1871 revolutionaries), the Central Market, and the Bastille.

From there, the author walked through the Boulevard, a famous street with tree-lined shops, cafes, and wide sidewalks. Here, he saw landmarks like the Madeleine Church, the Opera House (a cultural hub of Paris), the Bourse (Paris Stock Exchange), the Bank of France, the arch commemorating Louis XIV's victories, Montmartre (the highest point in Paris), and the small hill of Chaumont, which had a beautiful lake garden at its base. Beneath this hill lay the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery, the final resting place of many renowned French figures.

On the southern bank of the Seine, the author visited places like the large park, Champs de Mars (formerly used for military parades), Napoleon’s tomb, the French Parliament House, the Pantheon (a historical building with the tombs of famous French figures like Victor Hugo), the Jardin des Plantes (a botanical garden with museums on plants and animals), and the Catacombs (an underground burial site where bodies were transferred in the 18th century). He also explored the underground waterways built by Napoleon III. After these explorations, the author returned to Little Hampston.

                           (To be Continued)

56. Three years in Europe 2 Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

    The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

          (Continued from the last part)

In this part, the relevant countries are England, Scotland, Ireland.

The author Romesh Chunder Dutt's travel destination this time is Cambridge. At Christ's College here, the mulberry tree planted by the poet Milton himself is still carefully preserved. King's College Chapel and St. John's Chapel are beautifully decorated. The library of Trinity College is worth seeing. Cambridge offers the fortunate opportunity to visit places where great figures like Bacon, Newton, Byron, and Tennyson studied. The picturesque small town along the River Cam is definitely a must-see. They also watched the boat race on the Thames, held between Oxford and Cambridge. After nine years, Cambridge won that year's race.

In Brighton, they witnessed a march past by 26,000 volunteers and a mock battle. From the beautifully adorned and luxurious coastal city of Brighton, they went to Worthing to see Arundel Castle, the oldest fortress in England. Then they visited Windsor, where they saw the Queen’s residence, college, and Windsor Forest, and also the grave of poet Gray.

The author and his companions then went to Derby to watch the famous Derby race. In this race, the English, typically reserved and composed, were seen displaying their enthusiasm and exuberance.

Without experiencing rural life, one’s visit to England feels incomplete. The country houses in the villages are clean and beautifully built. They have large yards, lovely gardens, and lawns. The roads are long and beautiful, with many parks where deer roam freely. Various wildflowers bloom everywhere. Every village has a church. The people of rural England are much more sociable compared to those in the cities.

One day, they went to see the Tower of London, the royal fortress and palace, an ancient prison, and the place where the crown jewels are displayed. They entered through the Lions' Gate and exited through the Bell Tower. It was here that the cruel Queen Mary (of the 16th century) imprisoned her sister Elizabeth. Many royal and brutal murders took place here. In the Horse Armoury, they saw weapons used by kings. In the Jewel Room, they saw various crowns used by kings and queens. The most fascinating item was the model of Koh-i-Noor, the largest diamond in the world, taken from India. Outside the Tower of London, they saw Tower Hill, where traitors were executed, and in the grounds of St. Peter’s Church, they saw the graves of the condemned.

Next, they visited the magnificent St. Paul’s Cathedral.

They then spent some joyful days in Devonshire, a region filled with green mountains and valleys, visiting places like Totness and Dartmouth to enjoy nature.

Next on their list were the ancient Kenilworth Castle and Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespeare’s birthplace. On the wall of the room where the poet was born, they found countless tributes from visitors. Among them, Ramesh Chandra Dutta found the names of Walter Scott and Charles Dickens. The house has been well-preserved and turned into a museum. In the church there, they saw the graves of the poet and his wife. This marked the end of the author’s visit to tourist places in England.

The next destination was Scotland, with the journey starting on July 21, 1869. While traveling by steamer along the Thames, the author noticed that the river water, like London’s, was quite dirty for a long stretch. But after a while, the scene changed: fields of crops, grazing lands, grassy fields, and trees appeared on both sides of the river, and the water became clear. Eventually, the steamer left the Thames and entered the North Sea (German Ocean). They passed through the city of Yarmouth, and after that, no land was visible. The next morning, the Flamborough cliffs came into view. After passing through Scarborough and Whitby, they saw Scotland’s coastline in the afternoon. They crossed a picturesque mountain called Bass Rock, which is home to thousands of sea birds. On the evening of July 22, they arrived in Granton, Scotland, and proceeded to Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is smaller in size and population than London. The city is graced with numerous beautiful houses, churches with spires, and hills that provide breathtaking views. Calton Hill and Castle Hill are located in the city, and Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags are nearby. A monument in honor of Sir Walter Scott (the Scottish poet and writer) stands here, offering a panoramic view of the city. The view from Calton Hill is even more splendid, and here is a museum dedicated to Robert Burns (the Scottish poet and lyricist). They also visited the Holyrood Palace and Chapel and saw Edinburgh Castle. This castle, located by the lake, houses the Scottish crown.

Linlithgow is a small town surrounded by hills and grazing lands. Its main attraction is the ruins of the Scottish kings' palace. In the small town of Stirling, they visited the monument to William Wallace and explored the Stirling Castle. Then, they traveled to a place called Callander, nestled in high, snow-capped mountains, where they first felt the true extent of Scotland’s endless mountains and forests.

From there, on a horse-drawn carriage, they traveled to Trossachs, passing countless mountains, lakes, valleys, and gorges. It felt as though the vast mountain range was guarding the country. Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond, without a doubt, are some of the most beautiful places in Scotland and the world. The tall mountains surrounding the lakes added to their beauty, and the calmness of the area amplified their grandeur. Loch Lomond is home to a stunning waterfall.

Next, they took the train to Glasgow through Balloch. Glasgow is larger than Edinburgh and serves as Scotland's commercial hub. In the city, they visited George Square, which features statues of Queen Victoria and her husband, and a monument to Sir Walter Scott.

They then boarded a steamer to Oban, passing through the Firth of Clyde and reaching the sea. Oban is a beautiful town with the ruins of Dunolly Castle. Scotland’s western coast is rugged, barren, and mountainous, and the high-altitude town overlooking the sea is incredibly scenic.

The next day, they sailed to the Isle of Iona, where they saw the ancient St. Mary's Church. Afterward, they visited the Isle of Staffa and explored some strange natural caves. In Fingal’s Cave, they traveled by boat from the sea and saw numerous naturally formed basalt columns. The sound of the sea waves echoed and amplified in the stone, creating an unique atmosphere.

Next, they sailed to Glencoe, a place where a terrible massacre occurred during the time of King William III. The following day, they viewed the highest peak in Scotland, Ben Nevis (4,400 feet). Afterward, they traveled through the Caledonian Canal, which artificially connects three lakes: Loch Lochy, Loch Oich, and Loch Ness.

From Inverness, they proceeded to Aberdeen, a city known as the Granite City because almost all its buildings are made of local granite. From there, they traveled via Edinburgh to Leven Lake, where Queen Mary of Scotland was once exiled.

Then, they went to places like Kinross, Hawthornden, Melrose, and Roslin, and finally reached Abbotsford, the home of Walter Scott. They saw his study, library, and personal belongings. They visited Scott's grave at Dryburgh Abbey. 

They then traveled through Carlisle and Penrith to Keswick, in the Lake District, which is similar to Switzerland’s lakes and mountains. Keswick, a town by Derwent Water Lake, is surrounded by mountains. The lakes here are as beautiful as those in Scotland’s highlands. After seeing the famous waterfall at Lodore, they were enchanted by the area. Once they finished exploring, they returned to London.

On June 15, 1870, the author embarked on a journey to Ireland. After crossing the Irish Channel, they arrived in Dublin, where they visited the university and parks. Near the city, they visited Kingstown, a place where Dubliners come to relax and date and enjoy the sea.

They continued their journey through the valley of the Avoca River, surrounded by tall mountains, and arrived in Glendalough, where they saw the ruins of seven sixth-century churches. They then proceeded through Bray, Boyne, Drogheda, and Belfast, heading toward the famous Giant’s Causeway (a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Northern Ireland, known for its thousands of basalt hexagonal columns formed by volcanic eruptions), which resembles Scotland’s Fingal's Cave. Afterward, they saw Dunluce Castle, perched on a cliff by the sea.

Then they visited Londonderry, where there is a monument to Walker, the Protestant clergyman who led the defense of the city during the 1689 siege. They then sailed on Lake Erne. From Limerick, they visited the Shannon Falls and saw the proud Killarney Lake, which rivals Scotland’s lakes in beauty. Ireland is filled with lush greenery, fields of crops, and tree-covered landscapes, earning it the nickname "Emerald Island." Its beauty is unmatched in England.

The Irish peasants rely solely on potatoes, as they rarely get to eat meat. Potato fields are seen all around, and the villagers live in poverty, working in the fields under the sun and sleeping in filthy huts alongside pigs, ducks, and chickens. Despite being a fertile country, the farmers are as poor as those in other countries (like India).

In Bristol, they visited the tomb of Raja Ram Mohan Roy, which was built in the Indian architectural style. They then visited Milford Haven, Aberystwyth, Carmarthen, Devil’s Bridge, Carnarvon, Llandberis, and Conway in Wales before returning to London on July 14, 1870.

                  (To be continued)

55. Three years in Europe Romesh Chunder Dutt

 

  The travels of Bengalis in the past 

                        Sumana Dam

In this part, the relevant countries are Srilanka, Yemen, Malta, England.

The first edition of Romesh Chunder Dutt's "Three Years in Europe 1868-1871, with an account of subsequent visits to Europe in 1886 and 1893" was published in 1872 by S. K. Lahiri and Co. There is also a Bengali translation of this book, titled "Europe-e Tin Bochor" (Three Years in Europe) by Ramesh Chandra Dutta. However, the two books are not identical, which is why this blog primarily follows the original English version. In the second edition of the English book (published in 1890), along with some revisions, the author's travelogue from 1886, following 1872, was added. The third edition, published in 1896, included the story of his 1893 trip to the Rhineland. Therefore, this blog has been written following the third edition of the english version of the book.

Romesh Chunder Dutt (1848-1909) was an Indian Civil Services officer, historian, writer and translator. After his retirement, he taught at University College, London, researched economic nationalism, and served as the Dewan of Baroda. He was the first president of the Bangio Sahitya Parishad, with Rabindranath Tagore as the vice-president (in 1894). He was elected president of the Indian National Congress in 1899.

This book is a summary of several letters written by the author at various times, primarily concerning European customs and descriptions of different countries. Romesh Chunder Dutt sailed on a steamer from Kolkata to London on March 3, 1868, accompanied by Surendranath Banerjee and Bihari Lal Gupta (both of whom were later members of the Civil Services and politicians). They embarked from Kolkata, traveling via the Ganges River to Diamond Harbour, and boarded the steamer 'Multan'. Upon reaching the Gangasagar, the steamer anchored at the mouth of the river and entered the sea the following morning. The confluence of the Ganges' fresh water and the sea’s saltwater was clearly visible. Around them, there was only deep blue water and sky. On a moonlit night, the white frothy waves sparkled with bioluminescent plankton, resembling a starry sky. The beauty of this sight was indescribable.

Four days later, the ship reached Madras. The author visited the fort, People's Park, and the zoo. Three days after leaving Madras, the coast of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) came into view. From a distance, the mountains of Sri Lanka appeared like clouds. This was the first time the author had seen mountains.

The following morning, they took a small boat from the ship to land in Ceylon. The country was adorned with coconut, bamboo, and other trees, and simple but clean cottages were nestled under their shade. The author felt that Valmiki’s reference to this country as "golden Lanka" was not an exaggeration. They visited Wakwella, a place of immense beauty, where distant grey mountains and Adam's Peak were visible. The surrounding area had waves of tall and short trees, fields, canals, and a small river. The people had brought cinnamon, diamonds, gold, and rings to sell to foreigners, but bargaining was essential to avoid being overcharged. They visited a cinnamon plantation and a Buddhist temple, where an eighteenth-century statue of Gautama Buddha was enshrined. The author was surprised to learn that the temple priests knew nothing about the story of Rama and Ravana. Sitting in the shade of the temple, the author enjoyed fresh coconut water and later savored a delicious meal, including hilsa fish, at their hotel.

After another week, the high mountains of Africa came into view. Two days later, they arrived at Aden (in present-day Yemen). The city was surrounded by barren hills, and there were almost no trees. The black-skinned people here seemed unbothered by the intense heat of the sun. The children ran alongside the author's carriage for half an hour under the scorching sun and were also skilled swimmers. They swam around the steamer, begging for alms. The fort at Aden was very secure, located on a rocky outcrop. Due to the scarcity of water in the area, the locals collected rainwater in stone-walled reservoirs, which they used throughout the year.

The next day, they left Aden and reached the Bab-el-Mandeb Strait, with Arab hills on one side and the small island of Perim (of Yemen) on the other. The sea in this area was perilous due to numerous small underwater mountains. Afterward, they entered the Gulf of Suez and reached Suez by nightfall, where the harbor was illuminated by countless lights from ships and steamers.

They then traveled by train to Alexandria in Egypt, where they saw wide streets, large beautiful houses, and magnificent gardens. They visited Pompey’s Pillar, standing 65 feet high, and the 50-foot-high Cleopatra’s Needle. Around these pillars are the ruins of ancient idols of gods and goddesses.

Afterward, they boarded a steamer to the island of Malta, where they admired the paved streets, beautiful houses, and well-decorated shops. This was the first European city the author had seen. They visited a garden adorned with fountains, cypress trees, and orange trees. The oranges were blood-red inside and extremely delicious. They also toured the Governor's Palace, St. John’s Church, and the tombs of heroes.

Their steamer left Malta for London, passing Gibraltar’s rock and the city of Jebel-al-Tarik (Tarik's City) from afar. After enjoying views of the rock and fortress, they continued on their journey. The following day, they passed the Cape of St. Vincent and saw large hills and a lighthouse. As they crossed the Cape of Finistère at night, they saw the Ushant island off the coast of France. Two days later, they passed the Isle of Wight, which was similar to India in its verdant beauty, with forests, gardens, and fields.

On April 11, 1868, they arrived in Southampton and then reached London, a vast city with around forty million inhabitants. The houses were mostly four to five stories tall, with the lower floors often below ground. The external walls were made of brick, while the interiors were made of wood and covered with paper. London had large parks accessible to all, contributing to the city's healthy environment. The houses were built in clusters, very close together, and were small, designed for the cold winters, as summers in London were short, unpleasant, and damp, with clouds and rain almost all year long.

Romesh Chunder Dutt visited the Crystal Palace in Sydenham, a massive glass building that sparkled in the sunlight. It was surrounded by beautiful gardens, fountains, lakes, and statues. Inside, art galleries displayed paintings available for purchase.

He also attended a reading by the famous author Charles Dickens at St. James Hall, which was so masterfully delivered that the audience was captivated.

By November, London’s streets, buildings, and parks were covered in snow, making everything look as though it was wrapped in silver. Winters in London were long, and the sun was hardly visible, with the environment cold and damp.

In the same month, the author in London observed the British Parliament elections of 1868. He was amazed to see that the citizens of England, in the very heart of the monarchy, enjoy such freedom, a privilege that only America, apart from England, offers.

Then December arrived, bringing Christmas. Except for the sound of church bells ringing loudly in the morning, there were no signs or sounds of celebration in the streets. All festivities took place inside people's homes.

After studying for a year for the Civil Service examination, the author sat for the exam in 1869. He had studied for the exam at the University College London and had also received personal tuition from the college professors. The professors were very kind and treated him like a friend. He especially remembered Professor Henry Morley, the English teacher, and Dr. Theodore Goldstucker, the Sanskrit professor. More than three hundred English students sat for the exam, of which only fifty would be selected. The exam, one of the toughest in the world, lasted for more than a month. The author’s subjects were English, mathematics, philosophy, and Sanskrit. Each subject also had an oral examination. After a month of anxious waiting, the results were announced, and the author not only passed but secured third place. His companions also passed the exam.

Afterward, the author went on a short sea trip with his companions. In the seaside town of Eastbourne, the author enjoyed the beauty of the sea and then went to see Pevensey Castle, which is now in ruins. On their way back by sea, they saw Martello Tower, which the English built in 1804 to defend against Napoleon’s invasion. There are several such fortresses along the coasts of Kent and Sussex. The author also visited a medieval English fortress called Hurstmonceux Castle. Then, he visited the seaside towns of St. Leonard and Hastings. The "Lover’s Seat" in St. Leonard is a romantic spot where a girl, devastated by the death of her lover, is said to have jumped into the sea to end her life. Fairlight Glen is another mystical place with a long, shaded path. Hastings Castle, located on a small triangular hill by the sea, is another noteworthy site. On their way back to London, they saw the Abbey built by William the Conqueror.

Next, the author visited Madame Tussaud’s Museum, which houses incredibly lifelike wax figures. Several times, the author mistook the statues for real people. With mechanical assistance, the heads and limbs of the statues can be moved. The "Chamber of Horrors," which displays the wax figures of notorious criminals and murderers, gave the author a chilling experience.

One day, the author visited Westminster Abbey, where he was delighted to see the tombs and statues of England's monarchs, warriors, politicians, poets, and writers. Anyone who has studied England’s history, poetry, and literature would be captivated by this place.

Then, the author and his companions traveled by train from London to Richmond, where they took a boat on the River Thames. They saw Alexander Pope's Twickenham and then continued to Teddington. The Thames river here was exceptionally clean and beautiful, with spring bringing a delightful charm to the trees on either side.

Spring in England has very pleasant weather, sunny days, new leaves on the trees, flowers, and the songs of birds. The arrival of spring in England after winter attracts much more attention than in India because the winters in India are much more appealing. The banks of the Thames, with green grassy land, chestnut trees, and beautiful shrubs, took on an extraordinary beauty. From Teddington, they walked along a lovely path to Hampton Court (King Henry VIII's palace), which took about an hour. They toured the royal rooms of the palace, the hall, and admired the many beautiful paintings in every room. In London, Temple Bar, which is now a place for hairdressing, used to be part of King Henry VIII's palace.

                      (To be continued)