The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part
In this part, the relevant countries are Rome and Vatican City.
The next landmark after Romesh Chunder Dutt is Vatican City. In 1929, Vatican City became recognized as a separate country after breaking away from Rome. When the author visited there in 1886, it was still part of Rome, which is why he recorded it as Rome. Currently, the most notable medieval Roman architecture in Vatican City is St. Peter's Church. With its grandeur and beauty, this church is unparalleled in the world. The entrance is flanked by two crescent-shaped colonnades, with 284 columns. On top of them, there are 192 statues of saints. The church features towering marble columns, a gold-inlaid ceiling, marble floors, bronze pillars, and a vast dome. The overall height of the church, combined with its splendor, creates an atmosphere of unimaginable luxury and grandeur. The precision of the architectural measurements is so exact that it is truly astonishing. The tombs and statues of Popes are located here. Some exceptional sculptures by Michelangelo are also present. The highest point of the church is 607 feet tall. There is also a 77-foot tall obelisk outside, which is very ancient, brought from Egypt to Rome by Emperor Caligula.
Near St. Peter’s Church is the Pope’s Palace, which was a separate empire before 1871, and during the author's visit, it was annexed to Italy. This palace houses many priceless paintings, the most notable being Michelangelo's The Last Judgment, painted on the walls of the Sistine Chapel. Beside the palace is the Vatican Museum, home to many ancient sculptures, including Michelangelo’s Apollo Belvedere.
The author next traveled to Velletri, 26 miles from Rome, an ancient Volsci tribe city, where there are ruins of an ancient fortress. After that, traveling through the ancient city of Segni and Ceprano, the author arrived in Naples. Naples is less clean than other Italian cities and has beggars on the streets. The author visited the Royal Palace, the Church of Saint Francesco di Paolo, and the Aquarium, where an electric fish shocked him when he touched it.
The author’s long-cherished dream of seeing Mount Vesuvius came true. For 28 francs, a company took them to the crater. The horse-drawn carriage left the city and climbed winding mountain roads. Everywhere on the slopes of Vesuvius, layers of lava from thousands of years ago have formed various patterns. From the top of the mountain, the view of Naples is very beautiful. After a stop at a hotel for lunch, they continued, but the mountain’s steep slope could not be climbed by horse, so a cable car system was in place. Instead of steam or electricity, the rail cars were drawn up using ropes and pulleys. They almost reached the summit in this way, and the temperature had decreased significantly with the altitude. After that, the remaining distance had to be covered on foot. Standing on the edge of the crater, the author saw sulfurous white smoke rising rapidly from below. From the active Vesuvius, rocks were being ejected along with the smoke. He also saw new lava flowing from the crater. A piece of paper dropped into the crater was blown back up with such force, like a bullet, due to the pressure of the smoke.
Among all the places the author visited, the one he most wanted to see was Pompeii, buried under lava for eighteen centuries, which had been excavated. The ruins of this city offer a glimpse into the daily life of its people. Like other ancient Roman cities, Pompeii has a forum, with temples dedicated to Neptune, Jupiter, Venus, Isis, Augustus, and Mercury. There are also courts, prisons, theaters, amphitheaters, baths, shops, bakeries, and other buildings. The author saw the Herculaneum Gate, the Palace of the Vestal Virgins, and the House of the Ceasars. However, the homes of ordinary people were very small and had no windows, so there was little ventilation or light. The roads were paved with stone but were not very wide. There was no drainage system, and the sizes of the rooms were surprisingly small compared to today’s standards. Ordinary household items like lamps, utensils, etc., were few and are now mostly preserved in the Naples Museum. The walls of many ordinary homes also depicted crude and obscene images, showing that the sense of modesty and sin of the time was different from today’s standards.
At the foot of Mount Vesuvius lies Herculaneum, another city destroyed by the volcanic eruption of 79 AD. Unlike Pompeii, it was not covered by a thick layer of ash but by deep layers of lava. New towns like Portici, Resina, and Torre del Greco have been built on top of this lava. So, unlike Pompeii, it is not possible to excavate the ancient civilization by digging here. Only a small part of the vast theater of Herculaneum has been excavated. This theater could seat around 10,000 people. Some common homes have also been uncovered, which are similar in structure to those of Pompeii.
The Naples Museum houses many artifacts found in Pompeii and Herculaneum. There are numerous small and large bronze statues, mostly of gods and goddesses, including the famous three statues of a fawn-child, one sleeping, one dancing, and one intoxicated. There are also household items like lamps, weights, cotton spindles, farming tools, weaving instruments, weapons, surgical instruments, musical instruments, and more. Items for the wealthy, including gold and silver vessels and jewelry, have also been found. The food grains, vegetables, eggs, and fruits preserved from that era show that people, unaware of their imminent doom, had stored these food items for the future.
After visiting Pompeii, the author went to Pisa, famous for its leaning tower, although the city also has a rich history. The tower stands at one end of the cathedral’s bell tower and is 180 feet tall with an eight-story structure. It leans so much that it looks as if it might fall. The cathedral itself was built in the 11th century. It is said that Galileo discovered his theory of the pendulum after watching the swinging bronze lamp here.
From Pisa, after traveling through the Apennine mountains and the plains of Piedmont, the author arrived in Turin, the capital of Piedmont. Known for its natural beauty, historical significance, and modern development, the city is comparable to Paris, Berlin, and Vienna in terms of modernity. Turin is laid out in wide, beautiful streets stretching from north to south. The city’s large roads, squares, and railway stations are lit by electric lights, which were not common in European cities at the time (although Paris had electric street lighting in 1878). The Palazzo Madama, or Lady’s Palace, is a notable attraction.
The author left Turin on December 13, 1886 and traveled through Rivoli, crossing the Mount Sene Tunnel through the Alps, arriving in Modena. This is a border town where their belongings were checked. The next day, they reached Paris.
(To be continued)
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