The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
In this part, the relevant countries are France, Germany, Switzerland, Italy.
Author Romesh Chunder Dutt went on a whirlwind tour of various places in France, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy for three weeks. On August 14, 1871, he and his friends left London, arriving in Paris the next day. Paris, once the greatest city in the world, had become dilapidated, especially after the communist uprising had destroyed many buildings. The Palais Royal, Vendôme Column, and the Tuileries (the French royal palace) had been demolished. However, the beautiful, brightly lit streets gave the impression that Paris was always in a state of celebration. The destruction caused by the events, such as the Franco-Prussian War and the Paris Commune of 1871, could only be understood by seeing the ruins.
The Louvre Museum in Paris, a royal palace adjacent to the Tuileries, had fortunately been spared from this destruction. The author explored its invaluable collection of statues and paintings. Napoleon’s Arc de Triomphe remained intact, with inscriptions commemorating his victories. From the top of the column, they viewed the beauty of Paris and the Seine River. They took a steamer along the Seine and visited the magnificent Notre-Dame Church, where Napoleon’s body had been brought from the island of Saint Helena for burial. The tomb’s inscription revealed Napoleon’s final wish to be buried beside the Seine among his beloved French people. The tomb was surrounded by white stone columns, statues, and topped with a beautiful dome.
They then traveled to Saint-Cloud, a former royal retreat, where the palace had been burned down but the gardens and roads remained beautiful. Next, they visited Versailles, the legacy of France’s most powerful king, Louis XIV. Despite the palace now housing various offices, they were granted permission to explore. The rooms, paintings, and statues within reflected the glory of France’s past. The gardens of Versailles, with their shaded paths, fountains, groves, and seating areas, were as enchanting as a fairy tale.
From Paris, they journeyed to Cologne, Germany, on the banks of the Rhine River, a city famous for its cathedral but otherwise very dirty. The next day, they took a steamer to Mainz, passing many castles along the river. After crossing the town of Bonn, they saw the Seven Hills and the Drachenfels Castle. The southern part of the Rhine was dominated by tall mountains piercing the mist.
They then arrived in Switzerland, visiting the lakes of Fluelen and Lucerne, some of the most beautiful places in the world. Surrounded by towering mountains, the serene lakes presented a breathtaking view. From Lucerne, they traveled by steamer and horse-drawn carriage to Interlaken, located between Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, where they admired the snowy peak of Jungfrau illuminated by moonlight. After crossing the lake by steamer, they took a train to Bern, a city known for its beautiful churches, houses, and streets. From Bern, they marveled at the view of the snow-covered Alps. They also visited Lucerne, where the historian Gibbon finished writing his History of Rome. From there, they went to the Chillon Castle, where they saw the dark underground chambers where the Swiss independence fighter, Bonivard, was chained for six years. The author also noted that poet Byron had carved his name into one of the pillars of the cell.
After visiting the castle, they traveled to Geneva, on the opposite shore of Lake Geneva. As they sailed across the lake, they could see the Jura Mountains on one side and the towering Alps on the other. Geneva was the birthplace of philosophers Rousseau and historian Sismondi, and from there, they saw the snow-capped Mont Blanc (4,808 meters).
While traveling through Switzerland, the author observed that even the poorest people were doing well. Their small wooden cottages were beautifully painted, their land was well-cultivated, and everything was kept clean. The people were polite and very different from the poor farmers in England, or Europe in general.
From there, they returned to Lucerne and took a coach called Diligence over the beautiful Saint Gotthard Pass to Italy. This mountain pass, which rises 7,000 feet above sea level, was a tiring but scenic journey. They reached Como, Italy, where they relaxed and bathed in the lake, which relieved their exhaustion. From Como, they traveled to Milan, known for its magnificent white stone cathedral, the best architectural work in Europe.
Next, they visited Venice, a city unlike any other, where the waters of the sea flow through the streets, surrounded by beautiful churches, cathedrals, ancient palaces, and domes. The heart of the city was St. Mark’s Place, and they also visited the Doge's Palace and the Princely Palace. They explored the dark, unhealthy, and brutal prison cells in the palace. In St. Mark’s Church, they saw statues and architectural relics brought by the Venetians from their conquests of various parts of the world, including Egypt, Constantinople, and Jerusalem. The famous golden lion of Venice, the city's symbol, was also present. Other churches in Venice were outstanding examples of Italian art. From Venice, they took a steamer to Brindisi, continuing their journey towards Bombay (India) for nearly three weeks.
Eighteen years later, on April 15, 1886, the author once again set sail from Calcutta for England. This time, he was accompanied by his wife, a brother, and four small children. Their journey by sea largely retraced the earlier descriptions, but with a few additions. During this voyage, the author saw many whales in the Indian Ocean, although they were not very large. In London, they visited Kensington Gardens and Kensington Palace, where Queen Victoria first received the news of her coronation. Near the palace were the Albert Memorial and the Albert Hall. They also visited Hyde Park, Green Park, and St. James's Park, and then reached the royal Buckingham Palace. Near Westminster Abbey was the Parliament House. In the northern part of London, they visited Regent's Park and the London Zoo.
The author then visited Oxford, the center of academic excellence, before taking his family to the quiet and secluded Little Hampston, located near Arundel, for a peaceful coastal retreat. They visited the aquarium in Brighton, home to many strange sea creatures, including an octopus. The author and his family greatly enjoyed walking along the beach, bathing in the cold sea water, and wandering the nearby country paths. The children delighted in picking blackberries from the bushes.
The author was then invited to give a lecture in Bristol. In the grounds of St. Mary Radcliffe Church, there was a monument dedicated to the young poet Chatterton, who claimed that his poems had come to him in the church. The most beautiful part of Bristol was Clifton, where the famous suspension bridge spanned the Avon River. Bath, a city surrounded by green hills, was known for its ancient Roman baths. The Abbey Church there was called the "Lantern of Western Europe" for its stunning stained glass windows. In Wales, they visited a small town famous for its cathedral and saw the ancient bishop's castle. They also visited the old Glastonbury Abbey. Afterward, they took in the scenic views of the Wye River, known as the "Rhine of England," before returning to Little Hampstead.
From Little Hampston, the author traveled to Paris, arriving on April 25, 1886. Having already visited many of Paris's famous landmarks, this time he explored the remaining attractions. The northern and southern parts of Paris were previously not considered part of the city, but were later incorporated as the city expanded across the Seine River, with the older part of Paris now called the "Cité." There, he visited Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Palais de Justice (Court), La Sainte-Chapelle, and then traveled to the northern bank of the Seine to see the Louvre, the Tuileries Gardens, the Palais de la Concorde (Europe’s largest and most beautiful square), the Champs-Élysées (a grand avenue with gardens), and the Arc de Triomphe (Napoleon's victory monument). He also visited the Bois de Boulogne (a former royal hunting ground now a large park and zoo), the Vendôme Column (a monument celebrating Napoleon’s victories), the statue of Joan of Arc (a French warrior who was martyred in 1431), the Palais Royal (a historic palace), St.-Eustache Church, Hôtel de Ville (the Town Hall that was burned down by the 1871 revolutionaries), the Central Market, and the Bastille.
From there, the author walked through the Boulevard, a famous street with tree-lined shops, cafes, and wide sidewalks. Here, he saw landmarks like the Madeleine Church, the Opera House (a cultural hub of Paris), the Bourse (Paris Stock Exchange), the Bank of France, the arch commemorating Louis XIV's victories, Montmartre (the highest point in Paris), and the small hill of Chaumont, which had a beautiful lake garden at its base. Beneath this hill lay the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery, the final resting place of many renowned French figures.
On the southern bank of the Seine, the author visited places like the large park, Champs de Mars (formerly used for military parades), Napoleon’s tomb, the French Parliament House, the Pantheon (a historical building with the tombs of famous French figures like Victor Hugo), the Jardin des Plantes (a botanical garden with museums on plants and animals), and the Catacombs (an underground burial site where bodies were transferred in the 18th century). He also explored the underground waterways built by Napoleon III. After these explorations, the author returned to Little Hampston.
(To be Continued)
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