The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
The horse cart ran all night. In the morning, across the Ganges, the writer and his companions saw the ancestral capital of the Pandavas, founded by Pururava, known as "Pratishtan," also referred to as the ancient Puranic Prayag, or Akbar's Allahabad.
The floating bridge of boats on the Ganges were then separated in the middle. Thus, the writer and his companions crossed the Ganges by boat. First, they went to see Prayag, the confluence (Sangam) of the Ganges and Yamuna. The scene of the confluence was incredibly beautiful. Hindus must shave their heads, beards, and even eyebrows upon visiting Prayag. The more hair sacrificed in this ritual, the more years they are said to spend in heaven. Women also enthusiastically participate in hair cutting here.
Normally, Allahabad's ghats are filled with worshippers and people performing rituals, but every year in January, a massive fair called Magh Mela takes place. This large gathering lasts nearly two months, with people coming from distant places to camp in tents and set up temporary shops. Pilgrims, beggars, and business travelers crowd the area. However, since the Sepoy Mutiny, the fair has not been allowed to take place near the fort's walls. Previously, around 1,500 families of priests lived here, some of whom attempted to expel the British during the rebellion. After the rebellion, many fled to other cities or hid in jungles, which, in turn, has benefited the pilgrims.
After seeing Benares, Allahabad seems relatively small and shabby, which explains its nickname, Fakirabad. However, gradually the city grows on you. The houses here are fewer and more spread out. The streets are wide and shaded by old, large trees.
According to Hindu mythology, the Triveni Sangam, where the Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati meet, is located here. However, the Saraswati River is not visible. It is said that being frightened she disappeared underground due to the roar of demons while coming here, hiding beneath the sands to flow subterraneously to join the Ganges and Yamuna at Prayag. It is believed that the Saraswati or Ghaggar River vanished due to a massive earthquake, and the sound of that quake is referred to as the demons' roar.
One of the most striking sites in Allahabad is the fort, which rises above the waters of the Ganges and Yamuna. The exact date of its construction is unknown, but this fort has witnessed many rises and falls of power throughout Hindu history. During the Muslim rule of Emperor Akbar, the fort was renovated, and the place was named Allahabad. Hindus believe a legend that Akbar was a Hindu Brahmin named Mukunda in a previous life, who wished to become the emperor of India. He received a boon from the gods that this desire would be fulfilled in his next life. He buried a copper plate with all that he wished to remember in the ground at Prayag, then committed self-immolation. In his next life, as Akbar, he sought that place and read the plate.
Now, the fort is under British control, having been newly decorated due to advanced weaponry and military strategies. During the Sepoy Mutiny, it was of utmost importance, with a grand gateway leading to the fort through a beautiful courtyard. There, sepoys would stop anyone with dark skin who could not show documents to enter. Inside, Akbar built a grand hall that is 272 feet long. The architecture from the Hindu kings' era is present all around. Below the fort, the Yamuna flows. A small door leads down a stone staircase where Mughal royal women would go to bathe in the Yamuna.
There is a tunnel-like space underground in the fort that is currently prohibited to go to. British soldiers are using it as a storage area. Those who have entered earlier reported it being damp, cold, and oddly scented. At the end of the tunnel is a platform with a seven-foot-high temple, housing a Shiva Lingam, surrounded by statues of other deities. There is a dead tree stump, which is said to be hundreds of years old, called the Akshay Vat, believed to be immortal. Long ago, it is said that this tunnel used to extend to the confluence. The writer suggests that since Buddhists were skilled in cave temple construction, this cave temple may have originally belonged to them, later taken over by Hindus. It may have once been above ground but became underground due to silt deposits from the Ganges and Yamuna.
The most interesting feature of the fort is Bhima's mace or 'lat', a massive stone pillar standing 35 feet high, which is actually an Ashokan edict pillar (constructed in the 3rd century BCE). Later, in the 4th century CE, the achievement of Samudragupta were inscribed on it, and in the 17th century, the name and lineage of Jahangir were added.
While exploring Allahabad, the writer visited the Daraiyaghat on the Yamuna, a holy site where it is said that Rama, along with Sita and Lakshmana, crossed the river to meet his friend, the Guhak Chandal. Nearby stands the palace of the king of Benares. A bridge over the Yamuna has been under construction for two years, with several workers losing their lives in the submerged work (this bridge was completed in 1866). The writer also saw the Jumma Mosque, the Ashram of Bhardwaj Muni, and the Barah Temple (Lakshmibarah Temple).
Next, the writer visited Khusro Bagh, a beautiful garden created by the Mughals, featuring lovely flowers, fruits, vegetables, and small maze-like paths made using shrubs. In the center of the garden, he saw the magnificent tombs of Khusro, Parvez, and Jahangir's Marwari Begum (Khusro was Jahangir's eldest son, Parvez his second son, and Jahangir's Marwari Begum was named Shah Begum). Adjacent to the garden is a large sarai, which exemplifies the Mughal’s philanthropic endeavors. The sarai contains a deep well with stairs leading down to it.
The Allahabad station is smaller than half of Howrah station. Trains here run on wood instead of coal. Pieces of burning wood often fly into the compartments, occasionally causing fires. The compartments look bright as many Hindu travelers wear colorful turbans. While traveling from Allahabad to Kanpur by train, the writer enjoyed the historic and beautiful Doab region through the windows. The train reached Kanpur after passing through Berhampur (now there is no station by that name) and Fatehpur station.
(To be continued)
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