The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
On October 25, 1860, on the seventh day of their journey from Howrah, the author and his companions' horse carts arrived at Benares (Kashi) in the early morning. The sacred pilgrimage site for Hindus, said to be situated on Shiva's trident, was faintly visible in the morning light along the banks of the Ganges. Apart from the sounds of musical instruments drifting from some temples, there was silence. As daylight brightened, thousands of temples, palaces, minarets, domes, and ghats became clearly visible. The holy city of Shiva, a place long heard of, read about, and dreamed of, was now before their eyes. At first glance, their hopes were fulfilled.
The crescent-shaped city was visible from the opposite bank. There was also a beautiful city on that side, named Vyasakashi. The author mentions that the Vaishnavas established Vyasakashi across the river in perpetual rivalry with the Shaiva community. However, this competition did not succeed; Vyasakashi never gained the status of Kashi. Vyasakashi houses the residence of the king of Benares. It is said that one reason for the boat bridge between Kashi and Vyasakashi is the belief that dying in Kashi leads to heaven, while dying in Vyasakashi results in rebirth as a donkey. Without the boat bridge, crossing the Ganges is possible by boat. The width of the Ganges at Benares does not exceed two-thirds of the Bhagirathi, but its depth and current are stronger.
Disembarking from the boat at Rajghat, the author eagerly set out to explore the city on foot. However, the beauty of the city seen from the opposite bank was now diminished due to the filth.
There is no comparison to Benares anywhere in the East or West. It is a complete center of Hindu religion with Hindu temples, monasteries, schools, educational institutions, and food. A foreigner wanting to see a true Hindu city will find everything in Benares. Benares is one of the oldest cities in the world that still exists today. This city connects the ancient and modern eras. However, there are no very ancient architectural structures in Benares; the architecture from Akbar's time seems to be the oldest.
The ancient name of Benares is Kashi. The Kashi Khanda (a section of the Skanda Purana) has a brief description of ancient Benares, but it mainly concerns the legends of Shiva. Varanasi is named after the confluence of the rivers Varuna and Asi. The name Benares comes from Varanasi. According to the author, the name Kashi was used first, which later became Varanasi. The name Varanasi came into use after the arrival of Fa Hien in 405 AD. Perhaps the old Kashi lost its significance under the influence of Buddhism and gradually turned into ruins. Later, Shaivites established a pilgrimage site at the confluence of Varuna and Asi and named it Varanasi; this is the author's own theory. The city has changed many times over the years. The current city, in the author's view, is not more than three hundred years old. The city regained its lost glory starting from 1570 under the Bundela Rajput king Rao Sujan Singh. Sujan Singh was the governor of Benares under Akbar. During his reign, the peace and order of the province were maintained, and the city's beautification was significantly enhanced.
Above Rajghat lies the old fort of Benares. During the time of Manu, Benares was one of two independent regions on the banks of the Ganges. The fort's location may have been crucial for stopping attacks from Panchal in the west and Magadha in the east. The city's importance remained immense until the last Hindu king, Jayachandra. The city of priests fell victim to the fierce armies of Muhammad Ghori. All the wealth accumulated in the fort fell into their hands. Within the fort, many temples, Buddhist temples, and ruins of houses can be seen. Many ancient architectural remnants are buried underground. The main road from Rajghat leads into the populous city. Here, the sounds of Vedic recitations from Brahmin scholars' homes could be heard. The shops of powerful Vaishyas and palaces were visible. For centuries, there were Buddhist monasteries and temples here. Shankaracharya replaced the atheism of Buddhism with Hinduism in this place.
There is a Hindu custom of visiting the city, known as nagar parikrama, where pilgrims travel along a designated path to visit holy sites. The narrow alleys filled with tall houses do not allow sunlight and air to enter. All the houses share similar features: hanging balconies, vents, worked walls, and round pillars. Most houses are six or seven stories high, with each floor about 10 or 12 feet high. There are small courtyards and tiny dark rooms. The low doors require one to bend down to enter and exit; windows are small and few in number. The inner quarters are usually located on the upper floors of the houses. The city is divided into many neighborhoods, each with doors that close at night. There are thousands of temples in the city. Over a thousand temples have been destroyed by Muslim invaders, but thousands more have been built. Many temples were again destroyed during Aurangzeb's time, only to be rebuilt later. Benares is not just a city of Shaivites; it is home to followers of Buddhism, Shaivism, Shaktism, Vaishnavism, and Jainism. The ghats of Benares are worth seeing. People spend joyful times at the ghats. In the morning, most Hindus bathe, change clothes, and pray at the ghats. In the evening, they enjoy the pure air of the Ganges, observe the ascetics' rigorous penance, and listen to various chants.The only open world outside for Hindu women is these ghats. There, they converse, socialize with friends, and even initiate romantic relationships.
To see the local sights in Benares, the author first visited the Tilbhandeshwar Temple in Velupur. A young Brahmin becomes attracted to the beautiful wife of a liquor seller. One day, the liquor seller has to go out for business. His wife invites the Brahmin to spend the night with her. However, unexpectedly, the husband returns home late at night. With no other option, the wife hides the Brahmin in a large pot. Upon entering, the liquor seller begins to fill the pot with liquor. Unable to find another way out, the Brahmin drowns silently in the liquor. In the morning, the seller is astonished to find the pot has turned to stone along with the Brahmin. It becomes known as Tilbhandeshwar. Everyone is amazed at how such a small vessel could accommodate the Brahmin. Tilbhandeshwar is actually a large round stone that supposedly grows in size each day. (However, this story has faded with time. The Shiva idol is named Tilbhandeshwar because it grows gradually).
The story the author recounts about Manikarnika Ghat is that Vishnu satisfied Shiva through various penances. While nodding in approval of Vishnu's actions, a jewel fell from his ear here, and hence the name Manikarnika. This is the most sacred place for Hindus to perform last rites.
The author then visited the Bhairavnath Temple (the temple of Batuk Bhairav), the home of the poet Tulsidas (Tulsi Manas Temple, where Tulsidas composed the Hindi Ramayana around 1574 AD), and the residence of the disciples of Chaitanya Dev.
Most of the temples and palaces along the banks of the Ganges were created by the Maratha kings and queens. The donations from Bajirao and Ahilyabai played a significant role in shaping present-day Benares. The temple of Hindu science, named Man Mandir, is located in Benares. It is said that in the palace of Raja Man Singh, whose history is unclear, this Man Mandir in Benares is built many years after his death by Raja Jai Singh of Amber. However, there might not be a direct relation between Raja Man Singh and the Man Mandir. The word 'man' means measurement, and 'mandir' means globe or world. Thus, it is a place where measurements of the earth are made. Using various geometrical shapes made of stone, ancient Hindus conducted research on measurements of the earth and astronomy. In the seventeenth century, French traveler, Tavernier observed Jaipur's princes practicing astronomy. Unfortunately, no Indian uses this Man Mandir anymore. However, the Hindu calendar is created from Benares every year. (According to information obtained from the internet, King Man Singh of Amber constructed this palace and ghats. The Man Mandir was built in this palace during the 17th century by King Sawai Jai Singh).
Now they went to Madhorao's Dharara, which was the temple of Bindu Madhav (a Vishnu temple). Aurangzeb destroyed this temple and built a mosque. It is the tallest mosque in Benares. From the 225-foot minaret of the mosque, the city can be seen beautifully below. On a clear day, the Himalayas can supposedly be seen from here. From the minaret, Chait Singh's fort can be viewed across the Ganges. (King Chait Singh of Benares was imprisoned in the fort for his hostile actions against the East India Company. He escaped in 1781 from the fort and Kashi by using his turban as a rope through a small window to descend into the Ganges. Since then, the fort has been known as Chait Singh Fort. (Now there is a Bindu Madhav temple at Panchganga Ghat, which was built later. The mosque is called Alamgir Mosque. The long minaret, mentioned earlier, fell into disrepair in the 19th century, and James Princep renovated it. However, it collapsed during a flood in 1948, resulting in some casualties. The remaining part of the minaret was ordered to be demolished for safety reasons. Therefore, that minaret no longer exists.)
After visiting the Kashi Visheshwar Temple, the author felt somewhat disappointed. Although the temple spire is adorned with gold by Punjab Kesari Ranjit Singh, he found the temple lacking in grandeur. The temple is not very ancient; it was established by Ahilyabai. The temple sees a large influx of devotees. Every day, the deity is bathed in the water of the Ganges in the morning and evening. Inside the temple, the author did not find the display of wealth he had hoped for. The Shiva Linga is adorned with garlands of flowers, surrounded by the fragrance of incense, filled with chants and the sounds of various musical instruments. Then, offerings are made to the deity, and arrangements are made for his rest, covering him with shawls in winter and thin cloth in summer.
Jnanvapi is the holiest water well. Inside this well is the original Visheshwar Shiva Linga, which disappeared during the Muslim era when Benares fell. The chief priest of the Visheshwar Temple treated the author and his companions well, placing garlands around their necks. Many families have lived around the temple since ancient times. The alleys are very narrow. Often, the religious oxen block these paths. They cannot be harmed (as they are Shiva’s vehicle). It is evident that Sadhus and oxen hold the highest respect in Benares. Like all pilgrimage sites, beggars earn well here.
Twenty or thirty paces from the Visheshwar Temple is the Annapurna Temple. The temple's structure is beautiful. The goddess here is veiled like Hindu women. When the curtain was drawn aside, the four-armed goddess statue was revealed. The statue is made of white marble, but gold and silver molds are used to bring variety the goddess's features. In her hands, she holds an utensil, indicating that she is performing the act of food donation. The author saw a Brahmin in the temple who was continuously reciting the Vedas from morning until night.
Those who come to Benares seeking history and antiquity may feel somewhat disappointed, as there are not many ancient structures here, nor is there a museum or exhibition for ancient artifacts. Among the things to see is a market where exquisite silk fabrics and special items from various parts of India are bought and sold.
The most interesting place to visit is the local college (now called Sampurnananda Sanskrit University). The college is adorned with colored glass and fountains, and its library possesses many ancient manuscripts. The college is custodian of many Indian earthenware from the 10th and 11th centuries. The decision to establish a prominent center of Hindu religion and philosophy in Benares has been of great significance to Hindu society since ancient times. The Benares College was established to foster an enlightened new Hindu nation with fresh ideas. (It was established in 1791 under the initiative of Jonathan Duncan of the East India Company, by order of Governor-General Cornwallis). Next to Aurangzeb's mosque, there was a pillar by the riverside, known since ancient times as Shiva's shaft. It has now been relocated to the northern side of this college. It is made of stone, with inscriptions and carvings. (It was later discovered to be a stone pillar from the time of Ashoka).
Three and a half miles north of Benares lies Sarnath. The name Sarnath is derived from "Saranganath," meaning "Lord of the Deer," There was a deer park here. According to the Jataka tales, the Bodhisattva descended in the form of a deer. Here, there is a stone stupa with a diameter of 93 feet and a height of 128 feet, as well as a stone Dharmachakra. Xuanzang wrote that he saw a copper statue of the Buddha turning this Dharmachakra. Additionally, further stupas and Buddha statues have been uncovered through archaeological excavations. During the Gupta and Pala periods, Sarnath thrived under the patronage of Buddhist kings. Xuanzang noted the presence of thirty Buddhist monasteries and three thousand Buddhist monks there. Over time, as Buddhism succumbed to Hinduism, Sarnath gradually fell into ruins.
(To be continued)
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