The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
The author's next travelogue begins on October 19, 1860. This time, the author and his three companions boarded a train from Howrah.
Here, the author compares the initiation of India's railway system to the arrival of the Ganges on Earth by Bhagirath. He discusses how Indians view the railway with wonder, noting that it represents a new form of rejuvenation for India. While Bengalis are naturally homebodies, the expansion of the railway will encourage them to step into the outside world. Now, one can reach Bali from Howrah in five minutes, and from there to Shrirampur in ten minutes. The subsequent stations include Chandannagar, Chuchura, and Hooghly, (indicating that many current intermediate stations did not exist at that time). Throughout the journey, villagers watch the train with bewildered awe.
Much of the road has been previously described, so this time the author recounts his experiences from Pandua (now in Hooghly district). Pandua was once the capital of Hindu kings, surrounded by a moat and wall five miles in circumference. Today, it is a regular village, with only remnants of the ancient fortification visible in some places. A 120-foot tall minaret stands out, which is among the oldest architectural examples in Bengal built by some old hindu king. This brick structure has endured for 500 years, standing well despite the elements. (According to Wikipedia, this victory tower was erected by Shah Sufiuddin after defeating the Hindu king of the Mahānādī area).
A significant conflict over cow occurred here in 1340, during a festival celebrating the birth of the Hindu king's much-desired son. One of the king’s Persian councilors (munshi) was present. Cattle slaughter was customary at Muslim festivals, and the munshi secretly did it and buried the remains in a vacant area of the town. At night, jackals dug up the remains and feasted on them. In the morning, one person's discovery of the remnants incited the Hindus, who sought to atone for the sin of slaughter by sacrificing the newborn child. Eventually, anger turned toward the munshi. He fled, but attempts to harm the Hindu king continued. This hatred and enmity persisted for many years, leading to the eventual downfall of the Hindu kingdom. It is said that as long as the water of a sacred reservoir is preserved, Hindus will be safe. However, the Muslims polluted the reservoir by discarding the cattle remains, weakening the Hindus, who became gradually defeated. This reservoir still exists to the west of the town. The place where the Battle took place, many human bones and skulls have been found during railway construction. The minaret stands as a declaration of the Muslim king's victory. The iron rod rising to the pinnacle is said to represent the walking stick of the war hero Shah Sufi.
The Pandua mosque is beautiful, measuring 200 feet long with 60 domes. The Pirpukur in Pandua is a vast water body, 40 feet deep and over 500 years old, located next to an Imambara and cemetery. This pond is known for a pet crocodile named Fatik Khan, who surfaces whenever called by the fakir.
The train then passes through the populous village of Baichhi, with many houses. The next station is Batka (?), from where a six-mile journey to the right leads to Debipur (now Debipur station). Here, a seven-foot tall fierce goddess statue resides in the local Singh family's temple (though the temple houses a Lakshmi-Narayana idol). The train passes through Memari, where many brick houses and a beautiful navaratna temple can be seen (does this refer to the seven-deul temple, but it is not a navaratna temple).
Bardhaman district is known for its wealth, fertility, and civilization, holding a prominent place in Bengal. Bardhaman and Birbhum are commonly referred to as Rarh. Bardhaman district contributes the most revenue to the government in Bengal. The train reaches Bardhaman (the first train journey from Howrah to Raniganj via Bardhaman's main line started in 1855), covering a three-day journey in just three hours only.
A narrow Banka river flows through the city. The author recalls references to Bardhaman in the poetry of Bharat Chandra Raygunakar and mentions Nur Jahan's residence here. The place called Vidyapatya is said to be where Vidya resided, and the current Durlava Kali temple is the cremation ground where Vidyasundar was said to have been take for sacrifice, according to the poem.
Old Bardhaman is now called Nababhat. Here, ancient Hindu kings and Muslim rulers, including Raja Man Singh, conducted their affairs. The 108 Shiva temples are arranged in two large concentric circles (one within the other). It is rumored that much treasure was buried in this soil before the establishment of the temples, but one king found nothing even after excavation.
In Bardhaman, the author notes, there is still a Maharaja who is the richest king in Bengal. His grand palace is elegantly decorated with mirrors and chandeliers. His summer residence is royally adorned. The Maharaja's treasury holds numerous jewels, gold and silver utensils, expensive shawls, and intricately designed clothing. His wealth is showcased during celebrations such as his birthday. The king has stables, a cow shelter, and an aviary. His favorite hobbies are architecture and gardening. His employed architects are busy throughout the year constructing and renovating buildings, constantly redecorating. His musicians are always engaged in creating new melodies, and culinary experiments are also ongoing. The city boasts numerous artificial ponds, with the largest being Krishna Sagar, which is embanked and has two cannons placed on it. For leisure in the afternoons, there is a charming garden called Dilkhush. There is a small zoo here, home to a pair of lions. The Maharaja devotes more than half of his income to religious services and thus helping the poor.
The next day, the author travels by train from Bardhaman to Raniganj. Along the way, they pass Mankor, which was a small village at that time. Entering Birbhum district from Bardhaman, the scenery remains similar at first, but after Panagar, the forest begins. The terrain becomes more varied, gradually rising to the Rajmahal hills. Within this forest lies a pilgrimage site for Shaivites, Baijnath (Baidyanath, Deoghar). It is said that Ravana was carrying Shiva from Kailash to Lanka, intending to transport him uninterrupted. However, due to a trick by Varuna, he had to place Shiva down at the present Deoghar, resulting in Shiva staying as Baidyanath.
From the train, the Shushunia hills and Biharinat hills can be seen. The area around Khoyrasole is the beginning of coal mining. Mines, chimneys, markets, and houses come into view. Finally, they arrive at Raniganj. The author expresses surprise that the railway has brought so many people and goods from such a distance, beneath the mountains. At Raniganj, the train will be cleaned and prepared for the next day's journey.
Currently, there are not many good places for the Babus of Kolkata to stay in Raniganj. There is a railway hotel, but no matter how much a native may read Shakespeare or Bacon, discard religious superstitions, form political organizations, or dream of a seat in the legislature, he cannot think of staying in an English hotel. Though he may adopt English ways in other matters, he cannot change his mindset and perceptions to align with English norms. Fortunately, a local individual arranges accommodation for the author at his home.
Raniganj lies at the edge of civilization, with wilderness and barbarism starting right after. However, there are beautiful places here as well. To the left, one can see the Vindhya mountains, and to the right, the jungle stretches all the way to the Ganges. The city is bustling with warehouses, shops, and mines, yet the nature in the outer areas remains completely unpolluted. Raniganj is a new town that needs to be developed with health consciousness. Indians should learn to build cities beautifully. However, the streets of this town are narrow, winding, and filthy. The shops are chaotic and overcrowded, with no house names. Small shopkeepers, laborers, and coolies reside in the area. Nobody from the higher society stays here permanently. Santali women come here to buy salt, cloth, and adornments. Villagers set up shops under trees.
However, Raniganj has transformed from a jungle that once housed bears and leopards into an industrial city that now generates a quarter of a million annually, all due to the railway's progress. Raniganj is still the only place in India from where minerals and coal are transported across the country, making steamers and ocean shipping feasible. More such cities will emerge across India to drive development. While agriculture is indeed the main source of income for India, the vast mineral wealth should not be neglected. The ancient ancestors of India were pioneers in agriculture, and they were also among the first in the world for production and trade. Once, India exported silk and muslin to the Roman Empire. The export of steel from India is noted in the Periplus (an ancient Greek navigational text). The steel production in India has significantly declined and most is imported from England. Good forks and spoons were once made in Banpas village in northwest Bardhaman, but now the blacksmiths have either died or migrated. The exodus of our indigenous industry to foreign hands is the result of unsuccessful competition with superior intellect and resources. India was once the world's granary, while three-quarters of the world was covered in jungle, rendering land unusable, much like various places in Africa. Over time, agriculture has begun in many new parts of the world (America, Africa, Mauritius, Brazil, Russia), reducing India's importance in that regard. Two hundred years ago, England’s weaving industry would lose to Indian weaving in competition, but now Indian weavers have been ousted from the market. Now, it’s unimaginable to think of purchasing anything other than Manchester textiles or Birmingham machinery. We hope that our sons and grandsons will buy every dhoti, shirt, and turban from Indian textile artisans. Currently, Indians are only engaged in agriculture because they lack capital and new ideas (technology). However, the author hopes that Indians will enhance knowledge, strength, and wealth to improve agriculture and manufacturing in the twentieth or twenty-first century, advance in mining, and send their goods to England and America via their own shipping.
There are many sights to see in the Raniganj mines. Mining is new to the Indians. Over sixteen hundred workers are employed in the mines, digging down to 135 feet. A visitor can see up to three miles deep, getting in the mine using flashlights.
The Damodar River, with its raging flow, floods hundreds of villages and towns. Hence, it is referred to as "male river" rather than simply a "river." Its name, Damodar, means "insatiable devourer," although in Raniganj, this river flows peacefully.
Later, the author went to the postmasters to arrange for two horse-drawn carriages. However, no carriages were available as many were out for the day. The Muslim kings had established a horse-drawn system in place of the postal runners. Now, it carries people far away. People can now rely on horse-drawn carriages instead of palanquins. In a few years, the railway will become the main mode of transport. This will greatly increase the travel of the babus of Kolkata. People will flock to break monotony and make the most of their holidays. There will be much greater interest in traveling to places heard of in history and legends, as well as enthusiasm for experiencing nature. The role of the railway in promoting travel is undoubtedly immense.
(To be Continued)
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