The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
The ancient city of Patna, known as Pataliputra in Sanskrit, Palibothra in Greek accounts, and Potolitse in Chinese (Palinfou, according to Wikipedia), was founded by Ajatashatru in the 6th century BCE. It served as the capital for the Nanda dynasty, Chandragupta Maurya, and Ashoka. Megasthenes came here as an envoy of Seleucus. Chanakya's diplomacy was practiced here. From this city, Ashoka’s Bhuddhist missionaries traveled to Egypt, Syria, Greece, and Sri Lanka. After the Maurya and Gupta periods, Patliputra became a center of power again during Harshavardhana's reign, as noted by Hiuen Tsang. During the Muslim era, Patna lost its significance. British traveler Ralph Fitch (1550-1611) described Patna as a large city with only mud houses and a terrible threat of banditry, indicating that it had lost its former glory.
Today’s Patna is characterized by narrow lanes, dirty and unattractive houses, walls covered with cow dung cakes and filthy drains filled with malaria-carrying mosquitoes. The land is low-lying and prone to flooding. No remnants of the grand gateways, minarets, or the palaces described by Megasthenes or in the play "Mudrarakshasa" by Vishakhadatta exist. There are no houses older than 200 years. Hiuen Tsang’s descriptions of Buddhist monasteries and temples are also absent. Now, only temples dedicated to Patna Devi, Gopal, Shiva, Sikh Gurudwaras, and mosques remain, with a notable presence of Muslims and Sikhs in the area. Muslim rulers wanted to rename Patna as Azimabad. There is a historical site in Patna where, under Mir Qasim’s orders, 150 British were killed, commemorated by a now-dismantled 30-foot-high monument made of black and yellow stone.
The trade hub of Patna is located outside the city in Maruganj (Marufganj). Patna is known for its excellent tablecloth production. Two interesting facts about Patna: weddings only take place in January and February, and those who die here are cremated on the opposite bank of the Ganges.
Six miles from Patna is the administrative center of Bankipur, which has opium warehouses, a court, and European residences. A large dome-shaped building (Golghar) features two staircases leading up to a round door for storing grains and a lower door for their retrieval. This government granary was built after the 1783 famine for grain preservation. The road from Bankipur station leads to Gaya, where Bodh Gaya is located, the site of Gautama Buddha’s enlightenment, housing temples over two thousand years old with stone arches reminiscent of ancient Indian architecture. Pilgrims from China and Burma have visited here for ages, followed by the rise of Hindu Gaya, emphasizing the importance of Vishnu.
From the Bankipur ferry ghat, the author sets off by boat towards the Hariharchhatra fair in Sonpur. The Gandaki River, coming from the snow-capped Himalayas, merges here with the Ganges. Sacred stones like Narayan Shila or Shaligram can be found in the Gandaki. At this confluence, a white temple, dedicated to Harihar Nath, marks the site of the mythological battle between an elephant and a tortoise, with Garuda carrying them away. The temple doesn’t see much crowd throughout the year, but it hosts possibly the largest fair in India during the full moon of Kartik, primarily for livestock trading, with around ten thousand horses and two thousand elephants sold. Stalls line up selling copper and brassware, various goods, toys, jewelry, and sweets. Five hundred tents are set up for kings and nobles, turning the area into a bustling fair filled with music and dance, attracting many Europeans for enjoyment. This fair lasts for fifteen days.
Patna’s military base, Danapur, is located 14 miles from Patna, with barracks, bungalows, and military accommodations.
Four miles north of Danapur lies the confluence of the Son and Ganges rivers. Crossing the Son River bridge (Koilwar Bridge, 1862), one reaches Ara (Ara Junction). Previously French and Dutch factories existed here; now, an English salt petre factory operates. Further along, the Sarayu River merges with the Ganges six miles upstream. The view at this confluence is quite picturesque.
Due to shifting riverbanks, steamers face difficulties navigating the Ganges. Next, the Buxar came into play. The Battle of Buxar opened the path for British power to expand beyond Bengal into Northern India. This conflict granted the British East India Company the right to collect taxes in Bengal, Bihar, and Odisha. A building dedicated to Lord Rama, who is said to have received weapons training from Vishwamitra here, is located here. Being once reigned by Bhojpur king everything in this area is known as Bhojpurean.
Throughout the night, steamers travel along the Ganges, arriving at Ghazipur by dawn. Ghazipur is famous for its rose gardens, with hundreds of acres dedicated to rose cultivation. Many people sell rose water, rose oil, and perfumes here. The city is clean, with wide streets and well-decorated markets. Europeans live separately in their bungalows. A military encampment exists on the city's western edge. Ghazipur is mentioned in Abul Fazl's "Ain-i-Akbari" from the 16th century, but no ancient architecture remains. It is predominantly a Muslim area. Lord Cornwallis, the Governor-General, died here and is buried in the town.
Next, the author visits the fort of Chunar. It is said that the Pal rulers of Bengal built this fort, while others claim it was constructed by the Chandal king of Bundelkhand, hence the name Chunar from Chandalgarh. The fort rises high above the Ganges ghat. After exploring the fort, he tours the town of Chunar, where houses are made of stone, two stories tall, with balconies. The area is known for its famous red and black pottery and high-quality tobacco.
The railway from Chunar to Mirzapur passes through forests and hilly terrain. While there are no tigers or elephants, wolves and bears can be found. Mirzapur features numerous stone-paved ghats, many boats, beautiful temples, scenic gardens, and well-built houses. Unlike Rajmahal, Bhagalpur, or Munger, Mirzapur lacks ancient heritage, yet it holds significant importance today, with warehouses for silk and metal goods. Many products, including carpets, are made here. Mirzapur has a beautiful market.
Four miles from Mirzapur is the Vindhyachal Temple, dedicated to the goddess revered by bandits. The temple is located atop a hill. These bandits, disguised as pilgrims, travel between Varanasi and Kolkata to commit theft. The author mentions that he will recount his journey from Mirzapur to Allahabad in later episodes.
(To be continued)
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