The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
"The Travels of a Hindoo to Various Parts of Bengal and Upper India" by Bholanauth Chunder ----
although this book is written in English, it can certainly be included in the 'The travels of Bengalis in the past' blog since the author is a Bengali.
This book is divided into two volumes, Part One and Part Two. It was published in 1869 by N. Trubner and Company in London. The book's preface was written by J. Talboys Wheeler, the author of the History of India. At the beginning of the book, Bholanauth Chunder dedicates it to the then Viceroy and Governor-General of India, Sir John Laird Mair Lawrence. In the dedication, he expresses gratitude to the British government for the opportunity to be educated in English and prays for the prolongation of British rule as it would bring progress and happiness to the people. Besides this dedication, the book reflects the author's profound admiration for English culture and a certain disdain for Indian customs and beliefs. In the preface, J. Talboys Wheeler mentions that this book is a significant document as it is the first time an Indian, specifically a Hindu who is knowledgeable about his religion and pilgrimage and skilled in English, has provided a detailed portrayal of India, including its people’s lives, nature, habits, customs, and thoughts, which was not previously available in any English author's book. Therefore, this book holds considerable importance for English-speaking people. Wheeler describes Bholanauth Chunder as a Bengali, Hindu, resident of Calcutta, a Vaishya by community and his parents were vaishnav. Despite being a believer in God, Babu Bholanauth Chunder, being part of the Young Bengal movement, does not believe in traditional practices or idol worship, like many other enlightened Bengali Hindus. Bholanauth Chunder is highly skilled in English and studied English literature at the Hindu College of Calcutta, securing first place in his country’s education. He was a member of the Asiatic Society of India.
The first volume of this book covers the author’s travels from 1845 to 1866. It is known that the author kept a diary during his travels, and later used this information to write the book. It should be noted that the spelling currently used for the names of places and vessels has been applied here.
There are several differences between Bholanauth Chunder’s writings and those of the Jadunath Sarvadhikari, despite both visiting many of the same places within a similar timeframe. These discrepancies include the fact that Bholanauth Chunder wrote in English while Sarvadhikari wrote in Bengali. Sarvadhikari’s language is very straightforward; he did not attempt to enrich his language with poetry or embellishments. In contrast, the English literature student Bholanauth Chunder uses a rich and sophisticated style in English, akin to that of a distinguished literary figure. While Sarvadhikari provides well-organized information about the places he visited, his book offers a clear depiction of the geographic, social, and economic conditions of those places during and before his time. The changes that have occurred since then are relatively easy to trace. However, understanding the information provided by Bholanauth Chunder about any location requires extensive reading as he often moves on to subsequent topics with minimal references. Another difference is that Bholanauth Chunder writes more about colonial rulers compared to Jadunath Sarvadhikari. Both writers are similarly satisfied with British rule, but Jadunath Sarvadhikari shows trust in Indian culture and traditions, while Bholanauth Chunder feels somewhat uneasy about them. Sarvadhikari’s writing is not meant to please or flatter anyone; he writes with complete independence. On the other hand, Bholanauth Chunder writes with a mindset of pleasing the English. The sections in brackets () reflect necessary researches made. The English spellings of Indian people's and places' names were often quite different during that time. Instead of writing the spellings used by the author in this text, the spellings currently in use are provided in all parts of this book.
In the first volume, the author’s initial journey begins on February 11, 1845. The author and some companions set out by boat on the Ganges. After passing Calcutta's Mint (established in 1757, located at Strand Road) and Metcalfe Hall (established in 1844), they reached Chitpur, whose original name is Kali Chitreshwari (Chitreshwari Sarvamangala Kali Temple, Chitpur). Previously, many animal sacrifices were made to the Kali Chitreshwari deity. It is said that the boatmen sang songs while rowing the boat, and the beautiful songs entered the deity’s presence. The deity’s face, initially turned eastwards, was turned towards the Ganges to better hear the song. Since then, her face has been oriented towards the Ganges.
Next came Cossipore (Kashipur), known for its beautiful houses, wild roses, and various flowers reflected peacefully on the water. The area between Kashipur and Baranagar was an important Dutch location 200 years ago, but later it became a place where the country’s 'bad women' (prostitutes) lived. Subsequently, the English regarded this area as a beautiful place, which is now used by wealthy individuals for vacations away from the city’s hustle and bustle. (From 1615 to 1825, Dutch colonies existed in Baranagar. During that time, the Dutch had houses, warehouses, and trading centers there. The name Kuti Ghat still carries that memory.)
Then came Dakshineswar, where it is said that a Muslim prince once lived. Now, it is filled with extensive gardens of various flowers, green grassy land sloping down to the Ganges. (At that time, the Dakshineswar Bhavatarini Temple had not yet been established; it was founded by Rani Rashmoni in 1855.)
On the opposite bank of Dakshineswar is the village of Bali, which is very old and traditional. It is mentioned in the writings of Kavikankan Mukundaram. However, the author expresses doubt about how Mukundaram’s Shreemanta could have reached here if the Ganges flowed beneath Satgaon at that time. The mud houses and poor appearance of Bali cast doubt on its antiquity. The village of Bali is picturesque, with its surrounding areas representing beautiful village scenes. Later, a large and robust bridge was built in Bengal in Bali. (This bridge is not the Bali Bridge, which was established in 1931. It is the bridge over the Balikhal connecting Bali and Uttarpara, built in 1846, the year following the author’s journey.)
The scenery along the banks of the Hooghly River is magnificent, with beautiful gardens, garden houses, and many ghats with many steps leading to the Ganges at small intervals. The Hooghly River’s valley is unlike any other in Bengal, in terms of its dense and affluent population. The writers passed Panihati, associated with the house of Raghav Pandit, a disciple of Sri Chaitanya Dev. The author also mentions the tomb of Raghav Pandit under the Madhavi tree.
Soon they reached Khardah. The time when robbers used to send letters before committing robbery, burn homes, and roast women alive in hot oil is recalled here. (The author does not elaborate on why this is mentioned, and there is no available information about it from internet sources or books). Here lived Nityananda, a reformer and follower of Sri Chaitanya Dev. After returning from Nilachal, he married a Brahmin girl in Khardah. His descendants became known as Gosain, who help people cross the ocean of existence. The author makes some critical remarks about Nityananda and his descendants in a satirical manner.
On the opposite bank of the Ganges is Mahesh, where the story is told of Jagannath and Balram, who had to return to Mahesh to retrieve a bracelet they had pawned for food after forgetting it on their way to Puri. The author mentions this story. About 75 years ago, Warren Hastings had a garden house in Mahesh (later turned into the Hastings Jute Mill in Rishra in 1875).
Next, they arrived at the place associated with Carey (William Carey), Ward (William Ward), and Marshman (John Clark Marshman), i.e., Srirampore. These three Christian missionaries were instrumental in establishing colleges and printing presses in Bengal. Serampore was a small town, once very clean and an elite commercial center with 22 ships arriving and departing the port within three months. The Danish were here for 90 years, trading (from 1755 to 1845). A shipyard or dockyard existed in Titagarh a century ago. By around 1800, the Dutch reached Chuchura with ships. At that time, the Ganges had not yet become so shallow due to silt.
On the opposite bank of the Ganges is Barrackpore, known for its beautiful park and the Governor-General’s house (Government House, Barrackpore). Job Charnock, the founder of Calcutta, used to come here 150 years ago to escape the busy city for a while (although the house was not yet built). The house’s collection of pictures is noteworthy. The park features beautiful trees, flowers, and grassland, and also houses a zoo with tigers, rhinoceroses, bears, and giraffes for leisure. The parade ground is memorable as it was here in 1824 that soldiers who refused to go to Burma were executed. Mangal Pandey (1857), who played a role in the Sepoy Rebellion, is remembered here, and his name has become a byword for hostility in the Anglo-Bengali society. The author’s disdain for locals and sycophancy towards the English is evident throughout.
From there, the boat arrived at Nimai Tirtha Ghat (Baidyabati), commemorating the memory of Sri Chaitanya Dev, who visited and bathed here during his travels. Next came Champdani, notorious in the past for robbery and murder. Then came Gourhati, which was the French governor's rural administration center in Chandannagar. The view here is very beautiful. Once, the beautiful grassy land was adorned with hundreds of horse-drawn carriages. But now, it has turned into a jungle. The governor's residence, which was once one of the finest houses in India, where Clive, Hastings, and William Jones had visited in its splendid assembly hall, has now been reduced to ruins. A few fragments of it could still be seen among the trees not long ago, but now nothing remains, the writer says.
The French flag of Chandannagar is visible from afar. Although the French colony was established in 1673, the place became significant during Dupleix's time. During his administration, more than two thousand brick houses were built. Fifteen French merchant ships were engaged in trade with various countries. But now, Chandannagar has lost all its glory and become lifeless. The old fort (now Chandannagar Court) has almost fallen to ruins. The houses are deserted, the roads and the deserted ghats are neglected, having been defeated by the English in 1757. Later, the writer adds that since 1869 Chandannagar has been connected by rail (1854), thus Chandannagar is improving and regaining some of its old grandeur.
On February 12, 1845, the writer arrives in Chinsurah. The beautiful buildings beside the Ganges are very pleasing to see. The best building is the College. It was previously the residence of Monsieur Perron, who was a French general and deputy of the Scindia of the Doab. (From 'Tirtha Bhromon' book, we learn that later it belonged to Babu Prankrishna Haldar and subsequently a college was established there). Chinsurah is a small town, free from the dust and noise of Kolkata, and is an ideal place for a peaceful weekend retreat. The place is more lively than Chandannagar. Chinsurah was under Dutch rule from 1675. As long as they traded here, the place was prosperous. Afterward, the place lost its importance and prosperity. A Dutch governor in Chinsurah at the end of the last century (the 18th century) was the first to invent the 'pankha' (fan). Nothing remains of Dutch rule in Chinsurah except for the shields of Dutch governors kept on the (now defunct) church wall. (Later, Portuguese rule in Chinsurah was from 1537 to 1635, Dutch rule from 1635 to 1825, and British rule from 1825 to 1947).
The writer and his companions then reached the Hooghly ghat. There were the remnants of an old Portuguese fort, with only slight ruins remaining. The Portuguese likely established it in 1537. The Portuguese used to abduct or buy children and sell them as slaves in various markets of India. Emperor Shah Jahan once sought military and weaponry assistance from the Portuguese. The Portuguese rulers refused and rebelled. Shah Jahan's troops attacked the Portuguese in Bengal, laying siege to the Hooghly fort for three and a half months. Over a thousand Portuguese were killed, and more than four thousand were taken prisoner. Beautiful young men were taken to Agra, searched, and converted to Islam. The women were given to the king and the nobility's harems. The Portuguese presence in Bengal was eradicated. Only the Portuguese church (Bandel Church, established in 1599) and Portuguese-style coats remain.
The Hooghly Imambara is famous. Its courtyard is vast and beautiful. It has a small pond, a two-story clean and elegant house, a royal hall, and Muslim-style chandeliers, lanterns with rainbow-colored. The walls are inscribed with verses from the Quran in blue and red. The doors are very ornate, with the mosque's foundation date and history written in golden letters. The most memorable event in Hooghly is the introduction of the press or printing press. In 1778, Messrs. Haldane & Wilkins printed the grammar of the Bengali language. From then on, Hindu literature became accessible to everyone, not just confined to Brahmins. The writer comments that this event is undoubtedly more valuable for civilization than the advent of the railways or the telegraph.
The Bandel Church is the oldest Christian church in Bengal. The establishment date inscribed on the church is 1599. The image and statue worship of the Portuguese Jesuits had been a significant irritation to the Mughal emperors, which was one of the reasons for expelling the Portuguese from their colony in Bengal.
(To be continued)
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