The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
The work titled "Bhromonkari bondhur potro (Letters from a Traveler friend)" by Ishwar Chandra Gupta was published in the "Sangbad Prabhakar" journal in 1261 as per Bengali calender (1854 or 1855 AD). Ishwar Chandra Gupta (1812-1859) was a renowned Bengali poet and writer. Together with Jogendramohan Thakur, he published the "Sangbad Prabhakar" journal from 1831. He brought the modern era to Bengali poetry by focusing on human life rather than traditional hymns to deities. Additionally, he wrote biographies of many poets and artists. The "Sangbad Prabhakar" journal holds immense significance in Bengali literature, the Indigo Rebellion, and public opinion formation.
Although the work is titled "Letters from a Traveler," it is not strictly a travelogue. Rather, it resembles the district gazetteers of contemporary Bangladesh. The work provides insights into the people, geography, socio-economic conditions, and notable individuals of various districts. It includes some travel-related elements which are presented here.
In this work, Ishwar Gupta writes as if addressing the editor. The "traveler" is actually Ishwar Gupta himself. In 1261 (1854 AD), he first wrote to the editor from the Rajshahi district. Having recently arrived in Rajshahi by boat from Kolkata, he noted that the Padma River was losing its power and had developed shoals. The local population was happy as the river's reduced flow had alleviated previous issues of erosion. Gupta had lived on a boat below Captain Saheb's house at the large Kuti Ghata for eight days and had not observed any new erosion. Had the river continued to erode as before, various important structures like Captain Saheb's house, the market of Ghoramara, and other offices would have been submerged. Heavy rains had caused flooding in the Padma, and there were severe cases of fever and loss of life. After a few days, the writer and his companions set out from Rajshahi's large Kuti Ghata by boat to Pabna. The next evening, they left the Padma River and entered the Ichhamati River. The Ichhamati was shallow in places, with only half a foot of water, making navigation difficult. The region was infested with dangerous "moshina" (silt and mudbanks), which posed a severe threat to boats. They reached Pabna after considerable effort using a small dinghy.
Pabna's market was large and well-organized, with brick buildings. There were various foodstuffs, textiles, fish, vegetables, ghee, and milk available at low prices. It was a good place for Bengali food. The Dhole Samudra, near the Pabna court, was noted for its beauty. It is a large water body, with sweet water and diverse fish. Fishermen frequently catch fish here, and the area is full of various aquatic birds. During the monsoon, its connection with the Padma increases its charm. A notable Ashvattha tree, Kushalnath, is worshipped by all in the district. Every Saturday and Tuesday, people perform rituals under this tree, including animal sacrifices and offerings of sugar and milk. Most of the Indigo planters in Pabna were English, and some were zamindars. The writer heard many stories of their cruelty from the local people.
He then traveled to a place called Sudharam, founded by a man named Sudharam Majumdar, which is also known as Buluwa or Noakhali. This area had a significant problem with tigers.
The next district was Chittagong. Here, there were no Indigo or silk plantations, so the people were content. The main river of the district is the Karnaphuli, known for its beauty and busy with ships and boats. The river is saltwater in places due to its connection with the Bay of Bengal. Ships from the sea, such as those bound for Kolkata or Chittagong, navigate the Karnaphuli. To prevent rusting, reed bindings are used for the boats and ships instead of iron. On the coast, the place called Halishahar is known for its excellent air quality, attracting Europeans seeking relief. Chittagong has several important temples and pilgrimage sites, such as Chandranath, Shambhunath, and others. Festivals are held at these places, with large gatherings and fairs. Chittagong also has a variety of wild animals and mountain tribes, such as Mogs, Chakmas, Tripuras, Kukis, and Luchis.
From Chittagong, they traveled to Comilla (Kumilla), where the Gomti River flows. Comilla features the Tripura King's palace and several ponds. After leaving Comilla, they traveled by boat from the Gomti River towards the Meghna River. They arrived at the zamindari headquarters of Gangamandal at Jafarganj, where a Kali idol is installed, and visitors receive prasad. The Gomti River, emerging from the Manipur mountains, joins the Meghna and is surrounded by fertile land.
After crossing the Meghna, Padma, and Kirtinasha rivers, they reached Rajnagar, observing the Maharaja's palace and many ancient structures. Rajnagar has several large ponds and gardens, such as Rajsagar, Rannisagar, and others. They visited various landmarks, including the Chatratn, Ekushratn, Panchratn, Ras Manch, Dol Manch, and others. After crossing the Nawa-Bhangini River, they entered the Padma and arrived in Barisal district, known for its high-quality rice. The river in this area is known for its danger from crocodiles.
This concludes the discussion of Ishwar Gupta's travel narrative. The next installment will feature another historical travelogue.
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