Travels of Bengalis in the past
— Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
Many travelers arrived in Gaya and became companions of the Karta (the leader). Now, Ghoshal karta had resolved to go to Kashi (Varanasi). Along with Ghoshal mahasaya were travelers from Maharashtra, Kurukshetra, Odisha, Dhaka, and ancient Bengal. They entered the Tikari region with guards in front and behind. The king there was Sundar Sa, who was killed by Mir Qasim. Everyone was taken to his residence, where they were provided with large rooms and carpets. After passing through Kochgram and viewing the beautiful gardens of Dharara, they touched the water of the ancient Ganges. They encountered the Shon River on the way.
They reached Sarsara (Sasaram). The poet mentions that this place was once the residence of Harishchandra. According to the Puranas, the name of the mountain Rohitashvagadh or Rohtasgarh comes from the name of Harishchandra's son, Rohitashva. Additionally, it is said that the grave of Aurangzeb (referred to as Aurang Patshar by the poet) is here, but in reality, the grave of Emperor Sher Shah of Delhi is located here. The travelers were impressed by the exquisite construction of the grave.
The travelers crossed the Karmanasha River by riding on people's shoulders for a small fee. It was a common belief that touching the river’s water would ruin all the religious deeds performed from birth. They crossed Moghal Sarai and saw the distant flag of Beni Madhav. They spent the night in the garden of Dulavipur.
In Kashi, the Varuna River is on the north side and the Assi River on the south side. The settlement of Kashi is in a semi-circular shape. Everyone bathed and performed religious rites in the river. The boat was kept at the Bengali Ghat (Bengali Toll) in Kashi. After performing puja to Visheshwar Shiva and Annada Devi, and giving donations, they made offerings at the Panchatirtha (five sacred places) including Manikarnika.
Next, they traveled to Prayag. They visited Mohansarai, Maharajganj, Madhav Sarai, Gopiganj, Jagdish Sarai, Kuch, Jhusi (Jhusi), and saw the ashram of Gautam, and the Yajna Kunda of Yudhishthir before crossing the Ganges. They bathed in the confluence of the Yamuna and Ganges at Prayag. They performed Pindadan (a ritual offering to ancestors) and bid farewell to Brahmins. They visited Beni Madhav and performed puja at the Panchatirtha before visiting the Prayag Fort. They saw the Akshay Vat (immortal banyan tree). They visited Dashashwamedh, Bharadwaj Ashram, and some companions went to Vrindavan. Ghoshal mahasaya returned to Kashi.
By boat, they reached Vindhyavasini’s shrine after crossing one and a half krosha (a measure of distance) of hilly terrain and offered a sacrifice. They arrived in Kashi via Mirzapur (Mrijapur) and Chunar. With great fanfare, Ghoshal mahasaya established a Shiva temple in the name of his ancestors, Kandarp Ghoshal, and worshipped deities including Vishwanath, Annapurna, Kal Bhairav, Kedar, Visheshwar, and Tilvandeswar. They bathed in all the kundas (sacred tanks), including Durga Kund. The Brahmins of Kashi, dressed in exquisite attire with sandalwood on their foreheads and Ruli marks, seemed like celestial beings. The poet commented that no one had done what Queen Bhavani of Kashi had done — building large houses, distributing wealth for the year, and setting up temples to fulfill every wish. The flag of Madhav (Madhav's dhwaja) is on the bank of the Ganges, 200 feet high, with a beautiful spiral staircase to climb. The travelers paid a small fee and could see far into the distance.
Now, some of the travelers were given money by the Karta and sent home. They returned to their own places. The Karta and many others began to suffer from spring fever (Vasanta Roga), prompting him to plan his return journey. The accompanying physician cured him. Subsequently, Ghoshal mahasaya went to meet King Balvant Singh of Kashi at his palace across the river at Shriramnagar, traveling by ten boats through the Assi Canal. Everyone was pleased with the magnificent palace. The Karta had discussions and interactions with the king.
(To be continued)
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