The travels of Bengalis in the past
------ Sumana Dam
The earliest travel literature discovered in Bengali literature so far is "Tirtha Mangal," written by Bijayram Senbisharad. The first printed edition of this work was published in 1915 (Bengali year 1308) by the Bangiya Sahitya Parishad Mandir, edited by Nagendranath Basu.
Bijayram Sen, whose title was Bisharad, was a Vaidya by caste as well as by profession, residing at Bhajonghat near Nonaganj in Nadia district along the Ichhamati River. At that time, Bhajonghat was part of the zamindari of Krishna Chandra Ghoshal. When Krishna Chandra set out on a pilgrimage to Kashi, Bijayram accompanied him as a physician. Although he was not present for the details of the journey from Khidirpur to Puntimari in Nadia, he wrote about it based on Krishna Chandra’s accounts. He was favored by Krishna Chandra and wrote this book under his direction. The book describes that it was completed in the month of Bhadra in 1177 Bengali year, corresponding to 1770 AD. This journey likely took place around 1769 AD, inferred from other details in the book. The work is a metrical poem according to the customs of the time. Information about Krishna Chandra Ghoshal is also found in the book "Karuna Nidhana Bilasa" by his son, Maharaja Jaynarayan Ghoshal. The family's wealth began with Krishna Chandra’s father, Kandarpa Ghoshal, who settled in Govindapur but later moved to Behala and then Khidirpur due to the construction of Fort William by the British. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal was the elder son, while the second son, Gokul Chandra, was appointed as Dewan during the governorship of Lord Clive’s successor, Verelost, and effectively became the ruler of Bengal. Gokul Chandra arranged all expenses for Krishna Chandra’s pilgrimage to Kashi. According to Bijayram, Gokul Chandra provided one lakh rupees for expenses, though whether this amount is exaggerated is uncertain. Krishna Chandra's pilgrimage resembled a royal procession, where not only relatives but also any interested pilgrims at the locations where the boat stopped were included.
In 1765 AD, Bengal came under British rule. Shortly after, the book provides historical details about the condition, mindset, and geographical location of the general public, and includes interviews with notable persons such as Krishna Chandra. Krishna Chandra started his journey by boat, accompanied by tents, canopies, palanquins, valuables, and various employees - munshi, bakshees, sepoys, bargadars, workers, letter carriers, torchbearers, along with many Brahmins, non-Brahmins, ascetics, Vaishnavas, and Vaishnavis. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal set out on a boat. Krishna Chandra Ghoshal embarked with many barges, peacock winged boats, sailboats, and narrow boats.
The journey began with worship at Kalighat and then embarked on the Ganges. Bakul Chandra and Krishna Chandra’s son Jaynarayan Ghoshal came to bid farewell. The flotilla then reached Shibpur, Krishna Chandra’s own residence. After crossing Chandpal’s Ghat and Banmali Sarkar’s Ghat, Krishna Chandra met Raghunath Mitra of the Mitra clan of Kumartuli and Raja Nabakrishna Mitra, the founder of Shobhabazar. They rested at Bagbazar’s Ghat that night. The next day, they passed Chitpur and Baranagar on the right and reached Balirghat, where they stayed that night. The following day, they bathed and performed worship at Sukh Char.
The journey continued with an overnight stay at Farasdanga, i.e., Chandannagar. The next day, Rajkishore Roy, Dewan of Hooghly, met Krishna Chandra. After crossing Kumarhatta, Halisahar, and Kanchrapara, they reached Balaghar and stayed there that night with drumbeats (damama).
The next day, they passed Somrabajar and Guptipara and reached the boat at Gokul Ghosh’s created Bakulganj, which had temples for the Ten Mahavidyas and Ram Lakshman Sita, now no longer existing. At Guptipara, Krishna Chandra donated to the learned Brahmins at the Ram Temple.
The next day, they crossed Ambika, Harinadi (a prosperous village now submerged in the Ganges), and Kalna, reaching Navadwip. Bijayram described Navadwip as equally holy as Kashi. After paying respects to the deities of Navadwip, the boat continued. They stayed the night at Goayari, and the following night at Harra or Hatra.
The next day, Bijayram arrived at Puntimari in Nadia, where Krishna Chandra appointed him as the family physician.
Bijayram wrote about a prosperous locality called Tungibali, which is now Ballitungi in Murshidabad. They stayed the night there, and a penniless Bengal old woman died. Krishna Chandra arranged her funeral at his own expense. The next day, after leaving Madhupur, they rested at Kushberia.
The following day, they arrived at the confluence of the Jalangi River, where the strong currents of the Padma River frightened the travelers. The boatmen were scared, and eventually, they safely reached the ancient city of Jalangi, now submerged. In Jalangi, a local zamindar sent four sepoys. They accompanied the boat in a separate vessel. Many notable people from Jalangi came to meet Krishna Chandra. Hindus and Muslims alike greeted him with respect and admiration. Krishna Chandra made generous donations and, after hearing praise and appreciation, stayed two days before resuming the journey. They rested at Kodalimari that night.
Along the way, they saw the famous city of Tara Ganya. The boat then reached Bhagabangola Hat, where the prosperity of the market impressed everyone. After staying there for two days, the boat continued. They passed Kaliganj, where they saw the mighty Mahananda River. Various metal utensils were bought. They left Dhulauri and Tattipur behind and stayed at Shivganj, founded by Shivnarayan, who was the son of Darpanarayana, the kanungo of the Murshidabad Nawab. Kaliganj and Shivganj were riverine ports at that time, noted by the poet as Bandar (port).
(To be continued)
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