The travels of the Bengalis in the past
---- Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
After leaving Kashi, they stayed the night at Meruadihi (Maruadih, Uttar Pradesh). The next day, they passed through Tamechabad (Tamachabad) and reached Maharajganj. They stayed the night at Benighat, at the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and Sarasvati rivers, after crossing the Ganges by pool of boats and traveling one krosh. The locals, known as Prayagis (priests of Prayag), are present to take passengers to Prayag. They are very greedy, ruthless, and cruel. Initially, they are polite when taking passengers but later become abusive. They have soldiers (!). The passengers arrived at Prayag, where they performed head shaving and fasting.
The next day, they bathed, performed tarpan (ritual offering), and attended various religious ceremonies at Tridhara. They performed the Panchakroshi Parikrama, visited Beni Madhav, the Akshaya Vat inside the fort, and witnessed the hidden beauty of the Sarasvati River. The fort on the west bank of the Yamuna River is made of stone, housing residences, large cannons, guns, and swords for protection. There is a barrack for soldiers within a krosha of the fort. The town has markets, offices, a hospital, and a post office. The steamer office is to the north. This Prayag is called Allahabad. The city has 50,000 houses. The water and air are very good, and one’s health remains excellent.
Afterward, the author, along with Titu Bagdi and Mahendranath Mitra, traveled to Vrindavan, while the others returned home. They then traveled through Durgaganj, Imamganj, Golamipur (Gulami Pur), Bhudhor Sarai (?), Chaudhury Sarai (Chaudhury Sarai), Kungarpur (Kunwar Pur), and Khajuwa, reaching Kanpur in six days.
Kanpur is a place where British government soldiers are trained. There are no fortifications, only tents in the fields. There are many armaments and ammunition. The guards are vigilant. There are strong and sturdy sarais from the Mughal era for travelers. About 300 Bengalis reside here. There is a Kali temple where guests can stay. The city has the offices of the Judge, Magistrate, Collector, civil court, and criminal court.
Eight krosh northeast of Kanpur is Bithor (Bithur). This is the hermitage of Valmiki Muni, the residence of Sita, and the birthplace of Lava and Kusha. Puna Setara's Bajirao's house and some soldiers are here. His adopted son's son, Nana Saheb, stays here with the soldiers.
Next was Kanyakubja (Kanauj), which was the residence of the Brahmins of Kanauj. Brahmins and Kayasthas from Gour began the Kulinism tradition here. There are many ancient temples, old palatial buildings, and many scholars and Vedic experts residing here.
They then crossed the Ganges and reached the city of Lucknow, which was under the Nawab's rule at that time. The people there are wealthy, very strong, and quick to engage in duels even over minor disputes. The British government has a resident and two battalions of soldiers there. The Nawab's realm is not very far, yet the writer mentions there are 52 royal thrones, and every army has a gathering. No one has less than a thousand musketeers. Many have up to ten thousand. The city is surrounded by a wall. Upon entering the city, one must inquire about the Nawab’s guards. Armed non-residents are not allowed entry. Foreigners are extorted for money at various places, showing the prevailing disorder. The Nawab lives in a fort with seven palaces. The city is situated on the banks of the Gomti River. There is a large building called Machchhibhavan with gardens, ponds, and well-appointed rooms. Below the ground are the Nawabs' tombs and treasure vaults. There are many guards and cannons to protect these. The Nawabs possess immense wealth. A Bengali jeweler informed the writer that the Nawabs purchase jewelry worth crores every year, and even their shoes are adorned with diamonds.
The next destination was Ayodhya, the capital of Shri Ramchandra, which has now become a forest. There are occasional settlements and statues of Ram and Sita. There is a fair during Ram Navami. Five to six thousand Vaishnavas are always engaged in devotional practices at the birthplace of Shri Ram and Hanuman Garhi. Large Hanumans are present but do not harm anyone. Instead, they guide travelers and only move aside if offered some food. The place where the royal throne was located now appears like a high mound. The capital extended up to about ten krosh. The remnants of houses and buildings made of brick and stone still exist.
Crossing the Ganges, they reached Mithila (or Sitatpur, Uttar Pradesh). They visited Naimisharan, where there was an ashram of 60,000 sages. The sight of the beautifully adorned forest and serene places was very delightful. They then arrived at Sekendra (Sikandra), where there are district offices, a post office, and a hospital. Here, they found an office where a Muslim Munsef and a Brahmin Daroga work together. There are arrangements for staying in shops, where puris, kachoris, sweets, and paara were available. They then set out for Agra.
( To be continued )
In this episode, the period of the diary is from 24 Chaitra 1260 (7 April 1854) to 16 Jaistha 1262 (30 May 1854).
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