The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
The writer, Jadunath Sarvadhikari, and his companions traveled from Baharampur via the river route to Rangamati, Kanthaler Bazaar, Satui Bazaar, and Malancha in Murshidabad. There are many braid bars in the Ganges between Murshidabad and Malancha. The areas between two such bars are called 'Masina,' where the water is very deep. Due to the high risk of capsizing in Masina, the boat was navigated very carefully. The journey included stops at Kapoleshwar, Kaliganj, Shirni, Nalepur, and Belhariganj before arriving at Katwa in present-day Purba Bardhaman. Before Katwa, they passed the mouth of the Ajay River.
Katwa is known for its markets and wealthy residents. It was here that Sri Chaitanya received initiation from Bharati Gonsai (Keshab Bharati). The temple of Mahaprabhu, the Bakul tree, and the Radha-Kanta's Radhamadhab temple (Katwa Radha-Kanta House Temple) are located here. They then proceeded to Dainhat-Dewanganj, Matyari, and reached Agradweep. There, they visited the Gopinath idol of Basu Ghosh. However, Sri Chaitanya had visited the devotee Govinda Ghosh in Agradoot. The writer might have confused Govinda Ghosh with Basu Ghosh.
Gradually, they arrived at Patuli (Purba Bardhaman), Belputhuriya, Sonadanga in Nadia, and Keshadanga before merging with the Khoriya (Jalangi) River at Trimohoni. They then arrived in Nabadwip, known for its many Chatushpati schools. The birthplace of Chaitanya Dev, Jagannath Mishra's house, and the Gauranga idols created by devotees are here. The Vaishnavas of Nabadwip are known for their scholarship. The old Shiva and Patala Devi temples are very active. The next day, they reached Mirzapur and Mathurapur before arriving in Kalna.
In Ambika Kalna, they visited the temples and facilities established by King Tejchand Samserjang of Kalna. The places included Sri Krishna Chandra Temple, Lalji's Temple, Ras Mandap, the king's meeting room, and 108 Shiva temples. This is the king's endowment property with excellent arrangements for worship and hospitality. After Kalna, they proceeded through Satgachia, Guptipara, and reached Shantipur. Shantipur is known for many Vaishnav Goswamis and Brahmin scholars, and it is also known for fine woven fabric.
They then traveled along the riverbanks passing through Guptipara, Jirat, Balagar, Chakdah, Sukhsagar, and Dumurudaha. Dumurudaha is associated with the Keshavarama Gumanray family, who were known for piracy. Due to their fearsome reputation, people were wary of traveling by boat. Their boats roamed up to Bagbazar Ghat in Kolkata. The journey continued to Magra, Tribeni, Bansberia, and Tribeni, where the confluence of the Ganges (southward), the Saraswati (westward), and the Yamuna (eastward) is known as the 'Muktabeni.' They bathed and performed offerings here.
They then visited the Hangseshwari Thakur Bari (Bansberia), established by King Nrisimhadev. The deity is depicted beautifully near a lotus arising from the naval of Mahakal, with a four-armed figure seated on a swan. The temple's architecture is in jantra style, with various deities placed on its summit. The journey continued to Hooghly, where they saw the Hooghly house of a wealthy man named Prankrishna Halder, now the site of Hooghly College. Mohammadi Masin's Imam Bari is also very good. Chuchura once had a dance hall (Prankrishna's?), but its current status is unknown. Two krosh away is Farasdanga (Chandannagar), known for its French administration until 1950. It is a beautiful town with good roads, houses, and markets.
The journey then passed through Bhadreshwar, Gauruti's Bag (Gaurhati), Baidyabati, Nimai's bathing ghat (Baidyabati), Sheoraphuli, and the house of Nistarini (Sheoraphuli). On the eastern bank, they visited Kaowgachi (Jagaddal), Titagarh, Maniram Pur (Barackpur); on the western bank, Debganj, Sadhu Babu's market, and Srirampur. Srirampur had Marshman Sahib’s printing press. It was once under Danish rule but now belongs to the East India Company. Srirampur’s Radha Ballabhji temple is also mentioned. They then traveled to Mahesh (Jagannath Temple), Rishra, Konnagar, Kotrung, and Uttarpara. On the eastern bank, they visited Bishalakshi's Lake (Titagarh), Khardah, Ramhari Biswas’s twelve Shiva temples (Khardah 26 temples), Bandhaghat, Shyamsundar Ghat, Sukchar, Panihati, and Ariadaha.
On the eastern bank, they visited Nasrahi (where there is a magazine?), Rasmani's Navaratna Shiva Temple (a Navaratna-style temple for Goddess Bhavatarini established by Rani Rasmani in Dakshineshwar; the Shiva temples here have eight roofs atchala style). The writer might have thought that the Navaratna temple was for Dakshineshwar Shiva as he was traveling elsewhere when it was inaugurated in 1855. On the western bank, they visited Bhadra Kali, Uttarpara, Bali, Barakpur(?), Ghushuri, Shalikha (Salkia), Golabari Ghat, Nimak’s Gola (Namak Gola Ghat), Habra (Howrah), which is near the railway road. Then they reached Ramkrishnapur, Shivpur; on the eastern bank, Kashipur, Chitpur, Sureer Bazaar, Bagbazar's Bandhaghat, and Annapurna Ghat (once known for its many Ganga ghats). The boat journey ended at Annapurna Ghat.
The writer then traveled to Kolkata's residence by palki (palanquin) and reunited with his son and son-in-law after nearly three and three quarters years. He then traveled by train to Konnagar to meet his daughter. Finally, on the 7th of Agrahayan, he began his boat journey from Kolkata’s Bomashal Ghat (probably Bankshall road ghat) to his home in Radhanagar. On the way, he observed water lifting using machine, the Ganges bridge at Kidderpore, the Company Garden or Shivpur Botanical Garden, which had various trees and plants. The journey on a different route included Sankrail, Bauria, Budge budge and Uluberia before reaching Nurpur and Geonkhali where from Ganga, the boat entered the Rupnarayan River.
The boat continued along the Rupnarayan River, passing through Tamluk (where there is a Vargabhima temple), Kantapukur (Kantapukur, East Medinipur), Kola (Kolaghat), Munshirhat (not to be confused with Munshirhat in Howrah), Bhatora (Batora, Howrah), Dhandanga (Dhaldanga, Howrah), Henor Ghat, Jagatpur (Jagatpur, Hooghly), and Titur parar Ghat before arriving at Gorher Ghat (Jagatpur, Hooghly). The final leg of the journey, by palki, took them through Senhat, Khanakul, Ramnagar Bazaar, and on the 9th of Agrahayan, the writer returned to his home in Radhanagar. In this way, the long pilgrimage of approximately four years for Jadunath Sarbadhikari Mahashaya came to an end.
This account covers the period from 12th Kartik 1264 (7 November 1857) to 9th Agrahayan 1264 (24 November 1857).
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