The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
On the early morning of the 24th of Baisakh, 1262 (Bengali calendar), the writer, along with companions, set out from Bhimgora to reach Kedarnath by climbing the four krosh of hills. (It took 17 days to reach Kedarnath from Haridwar on foot). For the first one krosh of the path, there were stones, ice, melting ice water, and grassy areas. For the next three krosh, the path was entirely on snow. The height of the mountains is 400 krosh from Gangasagar. Walking on snow makes one's feet numb. The path is cut through the snow, and each step might be a struggle in this expansive area. One must step where there are footprints on the snow. If someone approaches from the front, it becomes highly dangerous to step around them. In some places, the snow is deep up to the waist. If one makes a mistake, it is impossible to predict where they might end up. About 10,000 hands below, the Mandakini river flows, covered with snow. Occasionally, gaps appear where the snow has melted, revealing the flow of Mandakini. Thus, there is a risk of sinking into the Mandakini while stepping on the snow. The writer saw that a person, having recklessly stepped, had fallen on the snow below and lost his life. However, even though this incident happened a month ago, the body had not decayed due to the nature of the snow. After crossing a difficult path, the Kedarnath temple can be seen from a distance of one krosh. During winter, everything, including the temple, is covered in snow, except for the trident on top of the temple.
Before visiting Kedarnath, one must bathe, perform Tarpan (ritual offerings), and conduct shraddha rites at the Panch Ganga. Panch Ganga consists of Alaknanda, Mandakini, Dudhganga, Kshir Ganga, and Mauganga. After that, one can visit Kedareswar in the temple. The deity here is in the shape of a buffalo. Seeing this deity brings satisfaction to the mind, body, and eyes. The fatigue of the journey is soothed. The temple is very dark, lit only by a ghee lamp. There are eight pillars in all directions. After bathing in the confluence water of Panch Ganga, offering bel leaves and sandalwood, one must circumambulate the eight pillars and Kedarnath repeatedly. The snow had not yet melted at Kedarnath's temple, and water was constantly dripping. Kedarnath and Badrinath are closed from Bhatridwitya to Akshaya Tritiya for six months due to snow. The remaining six months are dedicated to worship in places like Asimath (Ukhimath or Usha Math) and Joshimath, respectively. When the temple is closed, a ghee lamp is kept burning. On Akshaya Tritiya, when the temple opens, the lamp is extinguished as the king of Tehri enters the temple for the first time. The Nat Mandir houses statues of the Pandavas. Inside and outside the temple are numerous statues of gods, goddesses, and sages. Inside the Nat Mandir is the statue of Nandi, the vehicle of Shiva.
To the north of the temple is the Mahapantha (the great path of departure to heaven). If one can travel three krosh north from here, they can touch the Himlingeshwar Shiva. Simply touching it makes one as strong as thunder and can lead to ascension to heaven. However, traveling this three-krosh path is extremely difficult due to the constant snowfall. Some have tried to go but could not because the snow would collapse with the slightest sound of footsteps, resulting in death. This snow is known as killer snow; anyone who comes in contact with it risks losing their limbs. For these reasons, 36 local people are employed by the company and Tehri's king to act as guards so that no one can traverse this path without permission. The guards wear woolen clothes made of sheep's wool and skins, with blankets on top. They can only travel one krosh distance with a fire pit, not more. Once, a Bengali ran up to one krosh of that path. The guards first explained to him, then beat and bound him, took him to the place of judgment, and sent him elsewhere after threatening him. If someone wishes to travel, they must leave their home, become a monk, undergo many complex disciplines and rituals, and get permission from Tehri's king. Such a person has been seen traveling up to one krosh, but what happened to them afterward is unknown.
From the northern part of Kedarnath's temple, the white mountain visible in the northeast is Mount Kailash (actually Mt Kailash is not visible from Kedarnath). There is a temple of Harparvati there. It is not clearly visible from here, but some peaks can be seen on the mountain. The writer mentions that if that object is a temple, then he has seen it.
The distance between Kedarnath's mountain and Badrinath's mountain is three krosh. In the past, a priest used to worship at both places. After completing worship at both places and returning home, he used to argue daily with his wife, claiming that if he could complete worship at both mountains, why could she not finish her household work? He would beat his wife during these arguments. One day, in protest against this cruelty, the wife earnestly prayed to Shiva, who arranged that a Brahmin could no longer travel to both mountains in a single day. He placed a high mountain between the two places. Thus, the distance between Kedarnath and Badrinath became nine days' journey (this mountain is called the Naranarayana Mountain).
On that day, after 2:30 p.m., it was time to return to Bhimgora from Kedarnath. The sun's rays seemed obscured by the snow. After much difficulty, seeing various types of snow, like glass and crystal, they arrived at Bhimgora at around 4 p.m. There, they fasted for the pilgrimage, performed Brahmin meals, bade farewell to the pandas with donations, and in return received the blessed lotus flower of Kedarnath.
(To be continued)
In this episode, the period of the diary is from 24th Baishakh 1262 (7th May 1855) to 24th Baishakh 1262 (7th May 1855).
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