The travels of Bengalis in the past
Sumana Dam
(Continued from the last part)
On the 8th of Vaisakh 1262 (April 18, 1855), Jadunath Sarbhadhikari set out from Haridwar towards Badrinath. His party consisted of 23 people, including 10 men, 12 women, and a six-year-old child. Among them, a couple traveled by "jhapan" (a type of palanquin used in Himalayas) while the rest traveled on foot. They carried three "kandis" (a type of portable carrier) for their belongings. The author has described the construction of the jhapan and kandi in detail. Each jhapan has four carriers and can accommodate one person to sit, while the kandi is carried on the back by a single person. Both the jhapan and kandi carriers have large sticks, which they use to shift the load and change shoulders.
The fare for the jhapan from Rishikesh to Kedarnath-Badrinath was 75 rupees. The cost for carrying items in the kandi was 20 rupees per "mon" (a measure of weight). On the first day, they reached Rishikesh and stayed at a dharamshala (pilgrim rest house) of the Lahore king Ranjit Singh. The next day, they all went to Laxman Jhula. After seeing the statue of Laxman, they reached Jhula, where they felt faint. Jhula is quite terrifying; it is a suspension bridge made of ropes and wooden planks that stretches across a deep gorge between two mountain ridges. The roar of the river below is so loud that it is difficult to hear oneself speak. The bridge sways, making the crossing very frightening. Some of the companions started crying, while others managed to cross while chanting their mantras. After crossing six krosh (a traditional distance measure), they reached Phuladi, known for Laxman's hermitage where many ascetics perform penance.
They stayed at a resting place in the forest and next day, after bathing and performing rituals in the Ganga, they traveled six krosh over steep paths to reach Bijli. The journey involved climbing, refreshing shade from trees, and the beauty of the surroundings helped alleviate some of the fatigue. They ate dal and roti at a local shop and stayed there for the night. The next day, they crossed eight krosh to reach Mahadevki Chatti for the night, and the following day, they arrived at Vyas ki Chatti, crossing Vyas Jhula which is similar to Laxman Jhula but smaller, and stayed there for the night after visiting the Vyas Ashram.
From Vyas Ashram, they walked six krosh over mountain paths and crossed Jhula to reach Devprayag. Devprayag is where the Bhagirathi and Mandakini rivers meet. The noise of the confluence is deafening. They enjoyed a meal and observed that the local market had limited supplies like thick puris, yogurt, sugar, and jilipis (a sweet) and brinjals.
To reach Gangotri and Yamunotri from here, one needs a pass from the Tehri king. Several crossings involve precarious rope bridges over dangerous rivers, and the journey requires considerable effort.After six days of hardship, if they could reach Tehri, they will be served free food by the king who established a dharamshala with for pilgrims. The king's realm used to extend to Devprayag and Kedarnath-Badrinath. When the British took over the kingdoms, the king of Tehri retained Tehri, Gangotri, and Yamunotri and ceded the rest. For traveling to Gangotri and Yamunotri, one needs a pass and must cross several rope bridges. To reach that place, one have to cross rivers a few times. There are two hills on either side of the river, and a thick rope is tied to a tree on each hill. A small seat that one can sit on is tied at the four corners with ropes. The ropes are suspended from a ring, which is hanging from the thick rope above. When crossing, the people on one side will push the seat by swinging it, while the people on the other side will pull it with the rope when it arrives. The author did not visit Gangotri or Yamunotri but possibly wrote about the experiences heard in Devprayag.
Two days later, they traveled six croshes to reach Rani Bag, where they saw the statue of Sage Gautam and stayed there. Their next destination was Srinagar, where the fort of Tehri now serves as the Company jail, and where they register before proceeding to Kedarnath. Essential items for worship at Kedarnath and Badrinath are collected here as they are not available at higher altitudes.
From Srinagar, they crossed over the mountain paths to reach Guptkashi, where the Ganga and Yamuna meet. There are temples of Vishweshwar and Annapurna, and the water from the Ganga flows into the pond from Gomukh, while Yamuna's water flows in from the lion’s mouth. The Kedarnath priests stay in Guptkashi. From Guptkashi, they traveled up the mountain for eight krosh to reach the temple at Tumbanath (Tunganath) and stayed at a dharamshala there. The next day, they descended a very steep path to Patan Chatti, where they spent the night. From Patan Chatti, they climbed six krosh to reach Triyuginarayan mountain, where they found the climb easier due to its mixed terrain of steep climbs and flat sections. There is a statue of Chaturbhuja Narayan, and in the nearby Nat Mandir, the sacred fire of Mahadev is kept burning. Outside, there are five ponds and numerous deities.
The author notes that only woolen or fur garments are available for the local mountain people, and they are very happy to receive cotton garments and needles. After descending from the mountain, they crossed the Ganga on a wooden bridge and reached Jhilmil Chatti, where they stayed despite the poor conditions. From Jhilmil Chatti, they traveled to Murakata (where Ganesh’s head was cut off due to Shani’s curse) and then to Gauri Kund. There, they bathed in the pond's water and visited Har-Gauri and Lakshminarayan temples. The accommodations were comfortable, and they proceeded to Bhimgoda, where there are lodgings provided by local priests. It is said that Bhima fell here during the ascent to heaven, and in April, heavy snowfall caused much hardship during the night.
From Bhimgoda, they traveled four krosh to Kedarnath. Early in the morning, they donned winter garments filled with cotton, layered with warm clothing and blankets, carried sticks, and gathered worship items (including bel leaves, honey, sugar, and dried fruits) for the journey. They set off for Kedarnath, chanting "Bom Kedar" (a reverent call to the deity).
(To be continued)
In this episode, the period of the diary is from 8th Baishakh 1262 (21st April 1855) to 23rd Baishakh 1262 (6th May 1855).
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